Dual Direct-Drive Printhead Assembly

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PRINT-HEAD (DUAL).jpg

(20.1) Fitting the Dual Extruders.

Duals.
  • 4 x M4 16mm Screws (Bag 14).

Position the previously assembled Dual Extruder onto the X-Carriage.

Secure using the M4 Screws.

Fan.
  • 2 x M3 Square Nuts (Bag 6).

Slide one of the previously assembled Print Cooling Fans onto the X-Carriage.

Affix with the Nuts.

Fan.

Tip: The Square nut at the back can be a little tricky to get on. I find removing the lock washer from the M3 Screw and refitting gives a little more thread to grip onto. Use tweezers to hold the nut.

Once the nut is in remove the Screw again, pop back on the lock washer and carry on...

Fan.
  • 4 x M3 Square Nuts (Bag 6).

Attach the other fan to the opposite side and also affix the IR Sensor to the X-Carriage.

(20.2) Assembly of the E3D HotEnds.

E3D-V6 HOTEND ASSEMBLY BIGBOX.jpg


This is only a rough assembly guide. For full instructions please read the Hotside Documentation.


Thermal paste applied to the Heatbreak.

Apply the thermal paste to the Heat-Break and screw it into the Heat-Sink.

Heater Block.
  • 1 x Grub Screw (Extruder Box, Hotend Fixings).
  • 1 x M3 x 10mm Button-Head Screw (Extruder Box, Hotend Fixings).

Screw the fixings into the heater block.

Part-Assembled.

Thread the Heater-Block onto the Heat-Break.

The top of the Heater-Block needs to be level with the end of the Heat-Break thread.

Measured to length.
  • 1 x PTFE Tube (Extruder Box, Hotend Bag).

Cut the PTFE Tube to 66mm.

Note: If you are assembling the HotEnd for a Pro cut the PTFE to 63mm.

Metal components.

Fit the Nozzle to the Heater-Block, push in the Bowden Clip and insert the PTFE tube.

Clip.

Raise the Bowden Clip out the top of the HotEnd while making sure the PTFE stays pushed down. Doing this will stop the PTFE moving around and help prevent blockages.

Two.

You'll need to assemble two HotEnds.

(20.3) Installing the HotEnds.

Align.
(20.3.1) Align the PTFE with the hole in the X-Carriage.


Fit.

Push in the HotEnd.

Do not push in the HotEnd while holding the Heater Block.

Note: If the HotEnd will not push in all the way, check the grub screws are not stopping it.

Adjust.

Insert the other HotEnd.

Make sure they are fully inserted.

Check the orientation of each HotEnd so they match up with what is shown in the image.

Tighten.

Tighten up the Grub Screws holding in the HotEnds.

Tighten.

Do not forget the rear grub screw.

Note: When tightening the grub screws try to make the tightening as even as possible between the front and rear grubs, too much on one grub could cause the HotEnds to be positioned at and angle. You will also need to make sure the left nozzle is slightly higher than the right. This is done to make the nozzle alignment process in the commissioning stage a little easier.

Level.

Both HoteEnds should be at a similar height with the left extruder slightly higher.

PT100 & Heater.
  • 1 x PT100 (Extruder Box).
  • 1 x Heater Cartridge (Extruder Box).
  • 1 x Grub Screw (Extruder Box).
  • 1 x Button Head Screw (Extruder Box).

Insert a PT100 and Heater Cartridge into the Heater Block.

Secure using the provided grub and button head screw.

Note: Align the Heater Cartridge with the wires in a vertical configuration.

Bend.

Bend the Heater Cartridge cables as shown.

Do not bend the PT100 wire.

Run.

Pass the cables up through between the GT2 Belt and the 8mm Rod.

Cable Tie.
  • 1 x Cable Tie (Bag 1).

Put a Cable Tie through the hole as shown.

Fan.

Assemble a Hotend fan as shown in the photo.

NOTE that there is a slight cutout (chamfer) on the (blue) fan shroud. This cutout should be aligned with the wires going into the fan body such that when the shroud is fitted to the heatsink with the wires at the bottom, the cutout is at the bottom facing the heater block.

Fan.

Assemble the other Fan with the wires coming out from the other side.

Fans.

Clip the Fan to the HotEnd.

Take particular care not to clip the fan on too low, IF THE FAN IS ATTACHED TOO LOW IT BLOWS ON THE TOP OF THE HEATER BLOCK.

This is most easily seen if the fan shroud it attached to the heat sink, prior to attaching the fan. With the shroud placed as low as possible (too low that is) there is a gap between the lowest fin of the heatsink allowing the fan to blow on the heater block and directly on the heatbreak.


Repeat the last few stages for the other HotEnd.

Note: Check the wires against the photo.

Wired.

Secure the wires with cable Ties.

(20.4) IR Sensor Cable.

Cable.
  • 1 x IR Sensor Cable (Electronics Box).

Pass the cable between the GT2 Belt and the 8mm Rod.

IR.

Plug the end into the IR Sensor.

Note: Check the orientation of the cable matches to the connections on the IR Sensor. The Red cable is nearest to the second HotEnd. Check the image if you are unsure.

(20.5) Motor Cables.

Motor Cable.
  • 1 x 1700mm Motor Cable (Motors Box).

Pass the cable between the GT2 Belt and the 8mm Rod and plug it into the Motor.

Motor Cable & IR Cable.
  • 1 x Cable Tie (Bag 1).

Secure the Motor Cable & IR Sensor Cable together using a Cable Tie.

Motor Cable & Fan Cable.
  • 1 x 1700mm Motor Cable (Motors Box).
  • 1 x Cable Tie (Bag 1).

Repeat with the other Motor Cable on the opposite side. Secure with Fan Cable together with the Motor Cable.

(20.6) X-Axis Endstop.

Endstop.
  • 1 x 1700mm Endstop Cable (Electronics Box).

Chop the middle pin off the Endstop.

Bend.

Bend the pins as shown.

Slot in.

Fit the Endstop into the slot.

Screws.
  • 2 x M2 12mm Screws (Bag 3).
  • 2 x M2 Hex Half Nuts (Bag 3).

Secure in place.

(20.7) Cable Management.

Cable Group.

Gather together the right hand group of cables.

Taped.

Tape the ends together.

Taped.
  • 1 x 1500mm Braided Sleeve (Bag 1).

Feed the cable group through the braided sleeve.

Heat-Shrink.
  • 1 x 40mm Heat-Shrink (Bag 1).

Fit the Heat-Shrink over the end of the braided sleeve making sure it passes about 5mm off the end of the sleeve.

Cable Ties.
  • 2 x Cable Ties (Bag 1).

Put two cable ties into the Cable Bracket and shrink the Heat-Shrink.

Wired.

Secure the cable group to the Printhead.

Repeat the process with the left cable group.

(20.8) Rear Spine.

PTFE.
  • 2 x 1 Meter PTFE Tubing (Stretch Box).

Insert the tube into the two Bowden Couplers in the Printhead.

PTFE.

Pass the two Cable Groups through the top ring Spine.

Ream.

Using a 4mm Drill Bit clear the holes in the printed spine parts.

Tube.

Feed a PTFE tube through the spine.

Tubes.

Repeat with the other tube.

Make sure to leave enough at the top to form a small arch at the top of the printer as shown.

Length.

Measure the length of tube at the back to be midway between the larger spine bracket and the small spine bracket.

Cut the tubes.

Cut the two tubes to length.

Ties.
  • 6 x Cable Ties (Bag 1).

Insert the Cables Ties into the Spine Brackets as shown.

Y-Axis Motor Cable.
  • 1 x 800mm Braided Sleeve (Bag 1).
  • 1 x 20mm x 40mm Heatshrink (Bag 1).
  • 1 x 1000mm Y-Axis Motor Cable (Motors Box).

Prepare the Y-Axis Motor Cable by threading the wire through the Braided Sleeving and securing the end with the Heatsink.

Y_Axis.

Plug the Y-Axis Motor Cable into the Y-Axis Motor and secure to the spine using Cable Ties.

Adjust.

Adjust the Braided Sleeved Cable Groups to match the arc of the PTFE tubes.

Insert.

Feed the cables through the hole at the base of the spine.

Tied.

Tighten all the Cable Ties on the Spine.

Cut off the excess from the ties.

Turn.

Rotate the printer so the side is facing you.

Insert.
  • 1 x Cable Ties (Bag 1).

At the top of the loop of cables and PTFE tubeing push a cable tie through one of the braided sleeve, be careful not to catch any wires.

Loop.

Loop the cable tie through the other braided sleeve and around the two PTFE tubes. Loosely close the cable tie and cut off the excess.