E3D-v6 on RepRap Fisher
for up to date and improved documentation
- Kapton tape (optional)
- A spanner for tightening the nozzles
- A hex screwdriver or allen key for tightening M3 hex bolts. One with a ball end is particularly useful.
- Some pliers or medical forceps for gripping things
- A scalpel might be needed if you cannot get the heatsink through the hole in the fan shroud.
Things to Print
- The effector plate and fan cover Downloadable on thingiverse.
- Optional Fisher nozzle duct from the official RepRap Fisher github repo. You can use your existing fisher one if you wish.
The flat bottom effector plate can either be printed or cut out in MDF. I printed it in Formfutura CarbonFill at 240 Degrees using the original Fisher hotend. If you intend on printing high temperature filaments like polycarbonate, then I would recommend getting it laser cut in MDF.
Things to Buy
- An E3D v6 kit, 24V or 12V, the duet electronics will support both. Either way you will need to replace the standard 19V power supply supplied with the fisher with either a 12V or a 24V one.
- Some zip ties, available from all good hardware stores, or Amazon, eBay etc. I had some left over from my original fisher kit.
- 10x 16mm M3 Socket Cap Hex Bolts - these can be found on eBay or Amazon, I got one of these sets a while back, as it contains a number of useful sized bolts with nuts.
- 3x 6mm M3 Socket Cap Hex Bolts available on eBay or Amazon
- 16x Washers - Amazon or eBay, or part of the set mentioned above
- 3x M3 nuts, non nyloc, Amazon or eBay, or part of the set mentioned above
- 6x M3 Nyloc nuts, Amazon or eBay, or part of the set mentioned above
- 6x M3 threaded 6mm ball joints, Available from emaker.io shop or available on Aliexpress
- 1x hotend connector kit, available from emaker.io but not currently listed on their shop, should be available if you send them an email. The other option is to replace the connectors that connect the fan, thermistor and hotend with a JST SM 4 way connector which is the approach I went for.
- Some heatshrink, available from Amazon or eBay.
wiring diagram on the official reprap documentation. If you are using the JST-SM connectors, then I would recommend using a female connector for the fan (red and black wire) and thermistor, (blue and green wires), and using a male connector for the hot end, Red and black to one of the hotend wires, and blue and green to the other. This way it is impossible to accidentally connect the fan to the hotend connector and vice-versa. Make sure the joints are covered with heatshrink.
Hotside, Thermistor, Heater Cartridge, Thermistor Wire and Thermal Compound. The heatblock should point away from the two holes that are used for the airflow to the nozzle.
Fan Cover and Effector Topas per the official reprap instructions. Don't forget to threadlock the balls!
Config File Changes
The first time you try it, I would subtract 5mm from the homed height, by setting replacing the M665 line in config.g with the following:
M665 R81.0 L160.0 B75 H164 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
Once this is done, you can work out if you have lost any useable height by using the autohome, and then adjusting the H value in the command above. I didn't lose any height but I am using home made carbon fibre arms, rather than the stock acrylic ones.
The thermistor beta value will also need changing, as the e3d uses a different thermistor to that of the stock fisher. This can be done by adding B4267 to the M305 parameter in config.g