E3D-v6 on RepRap Fisher

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Tools Needed


Tools needed for the assembly of the effector.
  • Kapton tape (optional)
  • Threadlock,
  • A spanner for tightening the nozzles
  • A hex screwdriver or allen key for tightening M3 hex bolts. One with a ball end is particularly useful.
  • Some pliers or medical forceps for gripping things
  • A scalpel might be needed if you cannot get the heatsink through the hole in the fan shroud.


Things to Print

The flat bottom effector plate can either be printed or cut out in MDF. I printed it in Formfutura CarbonFill at 240 Degrees using the original Fisher hotend. If you intend on printing high temperature filaments like polycarbonate, then I would recommend getting it laser cut in MDF.

Things to Buy


Things to buy to build the effector.
  • An E3D v6 kit, 24V or 12V, the duet electronics will support both. Either way you will need to replace the standard 19V power supply supplied with the fisher with either a 12V or a 24V one.
  • Some zip ties, available from all good hardware stores, or Amazon, eBay etc. I had some left over from my original fisher kit.
  • 10x 16mm M3 Socket Cap Hex Bolts - these can be found on eBay or Amazon, I got one of these sets a while back, as it contains a number of useful sized bolts with nuts.
  • 3x 6mm M3 Socket Cap Hex Bolts available on eBay or Amazon
  • 16x Washers - Amazon or eBay, or part of the set mentioned above
  • 3x M3 nuts, non nyloc, Amazon or eBay, or part of the set mentioned above
  • 6x M3 Nyloc nuts, Amazon or eBay, or part of the set mentioned above
  • 6x M3 threaded 6mm ball joints, Available from emaker.io shop or available on Aliexpress
  • 1x hotend connector kit, available from emaker.io but not currently listed on their shop, should be available if you send them an email. The other option is to replace the connectors that connect the fan, thermistor and hotend with a JST SM 4 way connector which is the approach I went for.
  • Some heatshrink, available from Amazon or eBay.


Assembly steps

Effector Bottom


Step 1
The heatsink is attached to the bottom effector plate using the 3x M3 6mm hex bolts, and the 3x non nyloc nuts. There should be a washer on the top between the effector and the bolt, and another washer on the bottom between the effector and the nut. The washers top and bottom overlap the fins on the heatsink, and grip it to the effector plate. It is easiest to slide the washer in, and then push the bolt through. make sure they are they are screwed together nice and tight, and then repeat for the other two bolts.


Underside view
View from the underside.


Electric wiring
Wire the hotend, thermistor and fan to the connector. If you are using the standard emaker connector, then you can follow the wiring diagram on the official reprap documentation. If you are using the JST-SM connectors, then I would recommend using a female connector for the fan (red and black wire) and thermistor, (blue and green wires), and using a male connector for the hot end, Red and black to one of the hotend wires, and blue and green to the other. This way it is impossible to accidentally connect the fan to the hotend connector and vice-versa. Make sure the joints are covered with heatshrink.


As per standard e3d assembly instructions
The rest of the underside of the hotend is assembled as per the standard E3D v6 instructions, Hotside, Thermistor, Heater Cartridge, Thermistor Wire and Thermal Compound. The heatblock should point away from the two holes that are used for the airflow to the nozzle.


Fan Cover and Effector Top

Top fan cover
The connecting rod joints are assembled as per the official reprap instructions. Don't forget to threadlock the balls!


Top fan cover 2
Add 3x M3 16mm bolts to the holes that go through the top effector to connect to the bottom effector.


Top fan cover 3
The top and bottom effectors can now be screwed together. If you struggle to get the top of the heatsink through the hole in the fan shroud, then a little material can be gently reamaed out with a scalpel. the nozzle duct is screwed on through the top bolt in the picture.


Top fan cover 4
The wiring can be tidied using zip ties.


Fan attachment 1
The fan can now be screwed to the effector assembly, I found that the best clearance was given by screwing the bottom ones in from the outside, and the top ones in from the inside.


Fan attachment 2
The cable holder from the original effector can also be used here, to provide a little strain relief


Fan attachment 3
Finally all that is required is to connect the bowden tube, the arms, and the wire connectors.


Config File Changes

The first time you try it, I would subtract 5mm from the homed height, by setting replacing the M665 line in config.g with the following:

M665 R81.0 L160.0 B75 H164 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height

Once this is done, you can work out if you have lost any useable height by using the autohome, and then adjusting the H value in the command above. I didn't lose any height but I am using home made carbon fibre arms, rather than the stock acrylic ones.

The thermistor beta value will also need changing, as the e3d uses a different thermistor to that of the stock fisher. This can be done by adding B4267 to the M305 parameter in config.g