E3d-v6 on Solidoodle 4
for up to date and improved documentation
The following guide focuses on getting the stock SD4 to use the E3D-v6 in a very effective and lean, straight forward setup on the SD4. That is to say, this is objectively the fastest way to get a E3d-v6 onto your SD4 and running within less than a day even. Anyway you do it, it's is very easy and definitely worth it. It is possible to make the jump to an versatile lean indirect feed E3d-v6 setup with only a couple additional steps which will be described. Keep in mind, this is a way to switch to indirect with almost just the e3d-v6 kit. This too is very worthwhile and supported by almost-empirical data.
- Order E3d-v6 kit
- Prepare New Mounting
- Other parts/supplies/tools
- Kit Assembly
- Upgrade power supply (technically optional)
- Remove old hot-end (and disassemble cold end if going to indirect feed)
- Attach New Mount (and relocate extruder assembly if going to indirect feed)
- Attach E3D-v6 assembly
- Firmware edits
- Slicing software edits
Ordering E3D-v6 Kit
The most straight forward upgrade is to match the SD4's 12v - direct feed - 1.75mm hot-end specs' and get the 12v - direct feed - 1.75mm kit.
If one wants to go to an indirect feed setup this would be a good time to do so since it is only a couple extra assembly steps to do so. In which case one would get the 12v - bowden - 1.75mm kit making sure to still match the 12v and 1.75mm filament diameter. One should also get Embedded Coupler, but is not necessary. The provided coupler from the kit will work but will not provides as secure a connection as this part does.
Prepare New Mounting
The simplest means of doing so is to print one from a site such as Thingiverse or even design your own. There is this part available also but that won't be covered in this guide (see "Indirect" portion).
- Most SD4's have the all metal cold end parts, the link to the printable part above will be the easiest to swap out and get running with.
- It is important to prioritize print quality when printing the groove-mount bottom half since it is possible to run into printing issues later on if the hot-end is not mounted proper -perpendicular - vertical to the build plate.
- The Z-Stop adjustment rang will need to be altered. either the metal can be cut to let the screw move down farther or print this and remove the thumb-nut segment.
- See above
- Or theoretically an alternative is this part, 2x M3 nuts and a 2x M3 bolts that are >=10mm longer than the current 10mm (estimated length).
In keeping with the lean style of this upgrade, the tools are very minimal. This segment will not include "digital tools", those are in the Firmware area. If you have or will be assembling the E3d-v6 from other documentation it will be handy to keep those tools around while following this guide.
- lean option: medium multi-tool, you can ignore most other tools in the list
- Hex driver from SD4's tool kit.
- wire strippers
- lighter or equivalent heat source
- some type of sharp blade (strongly suggested though optional)
- needle nose or appropriately small pliers (strongly suggested though optional)
- Kapton tape (optional but always good to have anyways)
- electrical tape (strongly suggested though optional)
- (optional and not covered) SD4's matching red and blue "molex" (as SD calls them) red one & blue one
- (Alternative to above) Terminal Block with at least 6 terminals
E3d-v6 Kit Assembly
It is easiest to follow the numerous videos on the internet or just "wing it". The Kit is very straight forward. While everything should be done with a clean workspace it is especially important for this part . The kit holds small and fragile pieces.
The method used is the result of having built a few of these, it is meant to be precise and thorough yet quick, among other things that will pay off in the end and later on through your hotend's life. NOTE: This will not be covering using the red and blue connectors since there is data to support a theory that they will negatively impact the E3d-v6's performance even if miniscule. An alternative which I think is more effective and versatile is the "european" terminal block.
During this process I have found that it is required to take special attention that the insulation, mentioned later, is kept flush against the thermistor glass bulb.
- cut the sleeving in half
- slip the sleeves onto the leads of the thermistor to verify they aren't too long, if so trim them so they are the same length as the leads.
- slip them off and trim 2-3 mm off each sleeve. It is important to use a sharp tool for a clean cut to prevent fraying for the next steps.
- replace sleeves and make sure they are snug and firmly against the glass bulb end.
- create a hook out of unsleeved area of wire, the hook bend should be 1-1.5mm down to be clear. I've found the easiest way is to hold the lead against a blade side and have 1-1.5mm of the open end stick up and to cautiously press and bend the end over.
wiring This part can vary since I've seen a couple of different wires meant to be connected to the thermistor, they all generalize to the following. Also, again, ensure the insulation stays flush against the glass bulb of the thermistor.
- strip 2-4mm of the ends going to the thermistor.
- make a hook, similar to the ones on the thermistor.
- if the heat shrink tubing is one large piece, cut in half
- optionally you can resize the heat shrink smaller, though they will need to be at least 2mm larger than the ferrules (they are ~10mm).
- slip on, per lead on the wiring, first the heat shrink tubing then the ferrule with the flange towards the open end.
- hook the leads of the thermistor to the hooks on the wiring.
- using the pliers, squeeze the hooks shut and flat as possible, this will also tighten up the connections.
- one ferrule at a time do this and the next step, slide the ferrule down and do your best to center the connection, some of the insulation and fiberglass should be in the ferrule too.
- use the pliers to "crimp" the ferrule, multiple pinches may be needed but the first should be at center (over the connections of the wires).
- one heat shrink piece at a time, again center everything in the heat shrink piece and gradually hold the heat source to it. usually you can really mess this up, but there is the more sudden danger of damaging the thermistor or fiberglass sleeve.
- carefully place the thermistor into the appropriate hole (smaller one) perpendicular to the block surface.
- using the pliers, grip the thermistor leads firmly but gently flush against the block.
- pull the thermistor out and gently bend the leads 90deg against the pliers as the crease point.
- replace the thermistor and verify that its fully in, adjust the bend from the previous step so it will seat properly before the next step.
- rotate the