Single Direct-Drive Printhead Assembly

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(19.1) Extruder

Extruder with screws.

Fit the four M4 Screws through the previously assembled Extruder.

Extruder in position.

Position the Extruder onto the X-Carriage.

Extruder attached.

Secure with the four screws.

(19.2) IR Sensor & Print Fan

IR Sensor.

Attach the previously assembled IR Sensor using the M3 12mm Screws, M3 Square nut and locking washers.

Fitting the IR Sensor.

Print Fan.
  • 2 x M3 Square Nuts (Bag 6).

Fit the previously assembled Print Cooling Fan, secure with M3 Square Nuts.


Tip: The Square nut at the back can be a little tricky to get on. I find removing the lock washer from the M3 Screw and refitting gives a little more thread to grip onto. Use tweezers to hold the nut.

Once the nut is in remove the Screw again, pop back on the lock washer and carry on...

IR & Fan.

Both the IR Sensor and Cooling Fan attached.


The part-complete Printhead.

(19.3) Assembly of the E3D HotEnd.


This is only a rough assembly guide. For full instructions please read the Hotside Documentation.

There are two options available:

  • lite6 (Lite)
  • V6 (Pro & Dual).

The only major variation for build purposes is the lite6 has the Heat-Break integrated into the Heat-Sink, so there is no heat break to add and no thermal paste is required.

Thermal paste applied to the Heatbreak.

V6 Only

Apply the thermal paste to the Heat-Break and screw it into the Heat-Sink.

Do not apply thermal paste to the thread that screws into the Heater Block.

Heater Block.
  • 1 x Grub Screw (Extruder Box, Hotend Fixings).
  • 1 x M3 x 10mm Button-Head Screw (Extruder Box, Hotend Fixings).

Screw the fixings into the heater block.


Thread the Heater-Block onto the Heat-Break.

The top of the Heater-Block needs to be level with the end of the Heat-Break thread.

The Heater-Block must not touch against the Heatsink.

Measured to length.
  • 1 x PTFE Tube (Extruder Box, Hotend Bag).

Cut the PTFE Tube to 63mm.

Note: If you are assembling the HotEnd for a Dual cut the PTFE to 66mm.

Metal components.

Fit the Nozzle to the Heater-Block, push in the Bowden Clip and insert the PTFE tube.


Raise the Bowden Clip out the top of the HotEnd while making sure the PTFE stays pushed down. Doing this will stop the PTFE moving around and help prevent blockages.

Hold the bowden clip up away from the body with the loop on an opened-up paper clip slipped under the lip of the bowden. With the clip locked up, push the ptfe tube down. Remove the paper clip and test that the ptfe tube does not move slightly up and down. If it does hold the bowden up again with the paper clip and push on the ptfe tube firmly down to seat it properly.

(19.4) Installing the HotEnd.


Carefully insert the Hotend into the X-Carriage.

If the fit is too tight use a needle-file or sandpaper to widen the hole.


The Hotend fully inserted and corrrectly orientated in the X-Carriage.

Secure the Hotend.

Tighten the two M4 20mm Screws on each side of the X-Carriage.

Make sure the Heater-Block stays straight.

Heater Inserted.

Fit the Heater Cartridge into the Heater-Block, fit by tightening the button-head screw.

Note: Position the wires from the Heater-Cartridge so they come out from the front of the printer and are orientated in a vertical position as shown in the photo.


Insert the PT100 into the Heater-Block. Tighten the grubscrew which secures it.


Assemble the Hotend fan as shown in the photo. Note the position of the fan wires.

Fan fitted.

Clip the fan onto the Hotend.

Note: Check the orientation of the fan duct. The lip should be facing down. Check the exploded diagram if you are unsure.

Bent wires.

Bend the Heater-Cartridge wires as shown.

Grouped wires.

Feed the wires through the X-Axis bars between the front bar and the belt.

Grouped wires.
  • 1 x Cable Tie (Bag 1).

Bunch the wires together and fix with a cable tie.

Cable Ties.
  • 2 x Cable Tie (Bag 1).

Add extra Cable Ties to the Printhead.

Cables Tied.

Affix the cables to the Printhead.

(19.5) X-Axis Endstop

  • 1 x Endstop (Electronics Box).


Cut off the centre pin.

Bend black.

Bend the black pin as shown.

Bend yellow.

Bend the yellow pin as shown.

Installed Endstop.
  • 2 x M2 12mm Screws (Bag 3).
  • 2 x M2 Hex Half Nuts (Bag 3).

Fit the Endstop into the slot in the Printhead. Secure using the M2 screws and M2 nuts.

Cable Tied.

Cable Tie the wire from the fan onto the Printhead.

(19.6) IR Sensor Cable

IR sensor cable.
  • 1 x IR Sensor Cable (Electronics Box).

IR Cable.

Fit the cable onto the IR Sensor.

Note: Take care to correctly orientate the cable.

Secured to the Printhead.
  • 1 x Cable Tie (Bag 1).

Feed the IR Sensor Cable between the bars and secure to the Printhead.

(19.7) Extruder Motor Cable

IR sensor cable.
  • 1 x 1700mm Motor Cable (Motors Box).

Plug the wire into the motor, route through the bars and secure to the Printhead.

(19.8) Printhead wiring

Cable Ties.
  • 4 x Cable Ties (Bag 1).

Insert four Cable Ties in the Cable Bracket as shown.

Motor & Hotend Wires.

Group the right-hand side of wires together. This will include the Heater-Cartridge, Stepper Motor, Hotend Fan and PT100 cables.

Tape the wires.

Tape the ends of the wires together as shown. This is to make the next step easier.

Thread the cable.
  • 1 x 1500mm Braided Sleeve (Bag 1).

Feed the wire throuigh the braided sleeving.

  • 1 x 20mm x 40mm Heatsink (Bag 1).

Feed the length of Heatsink down the Braided Sleeve and shrink onto the end.

Adjust the length of the cables making sure to leave enough slack in the wires should you wish to use the Volcano.

Secure the cable to the Cable Bracket with the two Cable Ties.

Both Cables.
  • 1 x 20mm x 40mm Heatsink (Bag 1).
  • 1 x 1500mm Braided Sleeve (Bag 1).

Repeat the process for the left-hand bunch of wires.

(19.9) The Rear Spine

Insert the PTFE.
  • 1 x PTFE Tube (Stretch Box).

Check the end of the tube is cut clean and square. You can recut the end with a sharp knife if needs be.

Press-fit the tube in the Bowden Coupler at the top of the Cable Bracket.

Insert the cables.

Turn the Printer around and pass the two braided cables from the Printhead through the look at the top of the Spine.

Insert the PTFE.

Feed the PTFE tube through the hole in the Spine Bracket.

Note: If the tube is hard to feed through you can widen the holes with a 4mm drill bit.

Feed the PTFE.

Continue to feed the tube through the other holes in the brackets.

Cable Ties.
  • 6 x Cable Ties (Bag 1).

Push Cable Ties through the holes in the rear spine brackets and Y-Axis Motor Cable Brackets.

Cut the PTFE.

Cut the PTFE at the mid-point between the Large Rear Bracket and the Small Rear Bracket.

Y-Axis Motor Cable.
  • 1 x 800mm Braided Sleeve (Bag 1).
  • 1 x 20mm x 40mm Heatshrink (Bag 1).
  • 1 x 1000mm Y-Axis Motor Cable (Motors Box).

Prepare the Y-Axis Motor Cable by threading the wire through the Braided Sleeving and securing the end with the Heatsink.

Plugged in.

Plug the cable in the socket on the Y-Axis Motor.

Secure the cable using the two Cable Ties.


Loosely close the top two Cable Ties around the cables.

Pass through.

Feed the cables through the hole in the back Panel.

Through the Strut.

Lay the printer on to it's side and feed the cables through the Strut.

Too tight.

Move the printer back onto it's base and push the Printhead to the very front left position, marked 0,0 on the Printbed.

The cables from the Printhead will most likely now be too tight.

Correct lengths.

Carefully pull the cables back so there is enough slack in the cables.

Note: You will probably need to hold the Y-Axis Motor Cable to make sure it isn't dragged back when you pull the Printhead cables back.

Cable Tied.

Close and tighten up the remaining Cable Ties on the Spine.

Poked through.
  • 1 x Cable Tie (Bag 1).

To help keep the Filament Feed Tube and Printhead Cables in tip-top condition and to help stop them slopping around we can use a Cable Tie to keep them grouped together.

At the apogee of the group push the end of the Cable Tie through the edge of the Braided Sleeve.

Both Sleeves.

Push the end through the other Braided Sleeve.

Closed loop.

Close the Cable Tie around the Filament Feed Tube and cut off the excess.

Note: Do not fully tighten the Cable Tie, the Feed Tube and Cables need to move around with the Printhead.


Good Job!