https://wiki.e3d-online.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Adubaret&feedformat=atomE3D-Online - User contributions [en-gb]2024-03-29T14:43:46ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.27.4https://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D_Nozzles&diff=7053E3D Nozzles2017-05-11T09:39:23Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page is about E3D-V6, Volcano and Cyclops ecosystem nozzles.<br />
E3D V6 Nozzles are compatible with the V6, V5 and V4 blocks (hence can be used on the Chimera and Kraken), Volcano nozzles are only compatible with the Volcano block and Cyclops nozzles are only available on the Cyclops block.<br />
<br />
=Changing Nozzles=<br />
<br />
When swapping out E3D Nozzles from other E3D components, we recommend resorting to the hot tightening technique. <!-- Make own page?--><br />
Follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
The reason for this is that the aluminium heater blocks used by E3D have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the brass and steel used in the nozzles and heatbreaks. This results in a small gap being created between the nozzle and the break inside the block when the hotend is at temperature, but this only happens if the nozzle has been tightened while cold.<br />
<br />
=Materials=<br />
<br />
==Brass==<br />
<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles (see [[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]), doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
==Hardened Steel==<br />
<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. If you are experiencing under-extrusion when switching over from brass or copper, we recommend that you increase your print temperature slightly until the results are deemed acceptable. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it is extremely hard to break one but if you do manage, they tend to crack rather than deform. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
==Stainless Steel==<br />
<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
<br />
==Plated Copper==<br />
<br />
These are the latest addition to the E3D ecosystem and provide an increased thermal conductivity. The nickel coating here has low surface energy which reduces plastic adhesion, and has potential to increase flow rate. Copper alloy also performs better at higher temperatures than other nozzles. Great for sticky materials like TPUs and PET-Gs as well as extreme temperature polymers like Ultem.<br />
<br />
=Sizes=<br />
<br />
{| class=wikitable style="text-align:center;"<br />
! rowspan="2" | HotEnd<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! colspan="10" | Nozzle size<br />
|-<br />
| 0.15<br />
| 0.25<br />
| 0.30<br />
| 0.35<br />
| 0.40<br />
| 0.50<br />
| 0.60<br />
| 0.80<br />
| 1.00<br />
| 1.20<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="4" | V6<br />
| Brass<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Copper<br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Hardened Steel<br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Stainless Steel<br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | Volcano<br />
| Brass<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
|-<br />
| Hardened Steel<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
|-<br />
| Cyclops<br />
| Brass<br />
| <br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| v<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<!--Insert pretty table of nozzles/sizes/materials/V6Volc etc--><br />
<br />
==Applications==<br />
<br />
===Fine Details===<br />
<br />
If you are looking for the ultimate nozzle in terms of precision, the [[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]] is sure to deliver. It is not as easy to use as our our other standard nozzles so we do not recommend them to first time users.<br />
If you are looking to try your hand at highly detailed prints but still want an easy to use nozzle, then 0.25mm and to some extent 0.3mm nozzles will allow you to get a feel of the particular requirements of high detail printing.<br />
<br />
===General Use===<br />
<br />
Our V6 hotends usually come with a 0.4 nozzle as standard, and the range from 0.3 to 0.6 has become the industry standard over the years. This is a good general purpose nozzle, which will give you a good compromise between resolution and print speed. We find that the V6 works best with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.25mm layer heights, while the Volcano achieves very good results with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer heights.<br />
<br />
===High Strength and High Printing Speed===<br />
<br />
The wider the nozzle, the wider the track, and the wider the track, the stronger the print. Parts printed with large nozzles (0.8mm and above) tend to have incredible strength compared to regular prints. Having a wide nozzle also allows you to print much thicker layers, reducing the total print time drastically (more info on our [http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=extras/blog/getblog&blog_id=28 Volcano Blog Post]). If speed is your n°1 priority, we recommend using the Volcano with 1.75mm filament, as the filament has a lower thermal mass (due to a lower cross sectional area) and therefore heats up quicker when in the melt zone. The question here is: will your extruder keep up? Volcano comes with a 0.8mm nozzle as standard, but goes all the way up to 1.2mm for very large and noticeable layers. At this size, the layers have a certain aesthetic appeal to them, we think.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Settings=<br />
<br />
<!-- Print speed, layer height, materials, temperatures etc... depending on size/block used/material of nozzle--><br />
<br />
=Printers compatible with the E3D ecosystem=<br />
<br />
<!--Insert table of printers and which nozzles are compatible (V6, CY, Volc) --></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D_Nozzles&diff=7052E3D Nozzles2017-05-11T09:04:57Z<p>Adubaret: /* High Strength and High Printing Speed */</p>
<hr />
<div>This page is about E3D-V6, Volcano and Cyclops ecosystem nozzles.<br />
E3D V6 Nozzles are compatible with the V6, V5 and V4 blocks (hence can be used on the Chimera and Kraken), Volcano nozzles are only compatible with the Volcano block and Cyclops nozzles are only available on the Cyclops block.<br />
<br />
=Changing Nozzles=<br />
<br />
When swapping out E3D Nozzles from other E3D components, we recommend resorting to the hot tightening technique. <!-- Make own page?--><br />
Follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
The reason for this is that the aluminium heater blocks used by E3D have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the brass and steel used in the nozzles and heatbreaks. This results in a small gap being created between the nozzle and the break inside the block when the hotend is at temperature, but this only happens if the nozzle has been tightened while cold.<br />
<br />
=Materials=<br />
<br />
==Brass==<br />
<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles (see [[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]), doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
==Hardened Steel==<br />
<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. If you are experiencing under-extrusion when switching over from brass or copper, we recommend that you increase your print temperature slightly until the results are deemed acceptable. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it is extremely hard to break one but if you do manage, they tend to crack rather than deform. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
==Stainless Steel==<br />
<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
<br />
==Plated Copper==<br />
<br />
These are the latest addition to the E3D ecosystem and provide an increased thermal conductivity. The nickel coating here has low surface energy which reduces plastic adhesion, and has potential to increase flow rate. Copper alloy also performs better at higher temperatures than other nozzles. Great for sticky materials like TPUs and PET-Gs as well as extreme temperature polymers like Ultem.<br />
<br />
=Sizes=<br />
<br />
<!--Insert pretty table of nozzles/sizes/materials/V6Volc etc--><br />
<br />
==Applications==<br />
<br />
===Fine Details===<br />
<br />
If you are looking for the ultimate nozzle in terms of precision, the [[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]] is sure to deliver. It is not as easy to use as our our other standard nozzles so we do not recommend them to first time users.<br />
If you are looking to try your hand at highly detailed prints but still want an easy to use nozzle, then 0.25mm and to some extent 0.3mm nozzles will allow you to get a feel of the particular requirements of high detail printing.<br />
<br />
===General Use==<br />
<br />
Our V6 hotends usually come with a 0.4 nozzle as standard, and the range from 0.3 to 0.6 has become the industry standard over the years. This is a good general purpose nozzle, which will give you a good compromise between resolution and print speed. We find that the V6 works best with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.25mm layer heights, while the Volcano achieves very good results with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer heights.<br />
<br />
===High Strength and High Printing Speed===<br />
<br />
The wider the nozzle, the wider the track, and the wider the track, the stronger the print. Parts printed with large nozzles (0.8mm and above) tend to have incredible strength compared to regular prints. Having a wide nozzle also allows you to print much thicker layers, reducing the total print time drastically (more info on our [http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=extras/blog/getblog&blog_id=28 Volcano Blog Post]). If speed is your n°1 priority, we recommend using the Volcano with 1.75mm filament, as the filament has a lower thermal mass (due to a lower cross sectional area) and therefore heats up quicker when in the melt zone. The question here is: will your extruder keep up? Volcano comes with a 0.8mm nozzle as standard, but goes all the way up to 1.2mm for very large and noticeable layers. At this size, the layers have a certain aesthetic appeal to them, we think.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Settings=<br />
<br />
<!-- Print speed, layer height, materials, temperatures etc... depending on size/block used/material of nozzle--><br />
<br />
=Printers compatible with the E3D ecosystem=<br />
<br />
<!--Insert table of printers and which nozzles are compatible (V6, CY, Volc) --></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Documentation&diff=7045E3D-v6 Documentation2017-04-25T12:40:48Z<p>Adubaret: /* Which nozzle to choose? */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Assembly Guidelines ==<br />
=== Generic Assembly Guidelines ===<br />
See [[E3D-v6 Assembly]] for the assembly instructions. Please follow them to the letter!<br />
<br />
=== Printer Specific Guides ===<br />
There is £25 store credit available for any guide produced which conforms to E3D's [[Acceptable Guide Standard]].<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Airwolf HDx / HD2x]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Makibox ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Mendel 90 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Printrbot Simple Metal ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Prusa i3 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Renkforce RF1000]]<br />
* [http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-information-installation-guides-and-review.3407/ E3D-v6 on Robo3D R1]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Rostock Max ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle Press ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 1 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman k8200 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman K8400 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on XYZPrinting Davinci 1.0 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on RepRap Fisher ]]<br />
* ....<br />
<br />
== What's in the box ==<br />
<br />
; Metal Parts<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)<br />
: 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak<br />
: 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heater Block<br />
<br />
; Electronics<br />
: 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan<br />
: 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR<br />
: 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)<br />
: 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins<br />
<br />
; Fixings<br />
: 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct<br />
: 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor<br />
: 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge<br />
: 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)<br />
<br />
; Bowden Versions also Include<br />
: 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.<br />
: 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.<br />
<br />
== Nozzles ==<br />
===Which nozzle to choose?===<br />
====Brass====<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles, doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
====Hardened Steel====<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it's extremely hard to break one but if you do manage they crack rather than deforming. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
====Stainless Steel====<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
Unless you have a specific need for stainless steel nozzles you're probably better off going for brass or hardened steel. Stainless is much less conductive than brass, less wear resistant than hardened steel.<br />
====Plated Copper====<br />
These are the latest addition to the E3D ecosystem and provide an increased thermal conductivity and a reduction in the surface energy of the nozzle. This helps to keep it clean as plastic is much less likely to stick to it.<br />
<br />
=== Identification ===<br />
[[File:E3D-v6 Nozzle Series.jpg|center|300px|v6 Nozzle Series]]<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|-<br />
! # of Marks<br />
! Nozzle Size<br />
|-<br />
| 2 on 1 face<br />
| 0.15mm<br />
|-<br />
| 0<br />
| 0.25mm<br />
|-<br />
| 1<br />
| 0.30mm<br />
|-<br />
| 2<br />
| 0.35mm<br />
|-<br />
| 3<br />
| 0.40mm<br />
|-<br />
| 6 (Sorry..)<br />
| 0.50mm<br />
|-<br />
| 4<br />
| 0.60mm<br />
|-<br />
| 5<br />
| 0.80mm<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''The new 0.15 nozzles have no markings for the first 1.75mm batch. The following nozzles will be supplied with 2 dots on one face.''' Specific guides to 0.15 nozzles can be found here: <br />
*[[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/015-Nozzles Blog post]<br />
<!--*[Order online]--><br />
<br />
=== Swapping ===<br />
To swap out a nozzle, you must follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
== Engineering Drawings ==<br />
=== Current Drawings ===<br />
<br />
Please note that there has recently been a switch over to cartridge-style temperature sensors for ease of use and also enabling users to easily switch between thermistors, PT100s and thermocouples. For more information see our [[Temperature Sensor Documentation]].<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | HotEnd Version<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 1.75mm Universal<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Direct<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Bowden<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Assembly<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-D-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-B-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heatsink<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-SINK.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-D.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-B.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Fan Duct<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340312 E3D-v6 Fan Duct - Thingiverse]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heat Break<br />
| [[:File:V6-175-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
| colspan="2" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heater Block<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-BLOCK-CARTRIDGE.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Nozzle<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-NOZZLE-ALL.pdf]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Legacy Drawings ===<br />
[[:File:DRAWING-V6-BLOCK.png|E3D-v6 Blocks for Thermistors]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D_Nozzles&diff=7044E3D Nozzles2017-04-25T10:36:18Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page is about E3D-V6, Volcano and Cyclops ecosystem nozzles.<br />
E3D V6 Nozzles are compatible with the V6, V5 and V4 blocks (hence can be used on the Chimera and Kraken), Volcano nozzles are only compatible with the Volcano block and Cyclops nozzles are only available on the Cyclops block.<br />
<br />
=Changing Nozzles=<br />
<br />
When swapping out E3D Nozzles from other E3D components, we recommend resorting to the hot tightening technique. <!-- Make own page?--><br />
Follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
The reason for this is that the aluminium heater blocks used by E3D have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the brass and steel used in the nozzles and heatbreaks. This results in a small gap being created between the nozzle and the break inside the block when the hotend is at temperature, but this only happens if the nozzle has been tightened while cold.<br />
<br />
=Materials=<br />
<br />
==Brass==<br />
<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles (see [[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]), doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
==Hardened Steel==<br />
<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. If you are experiencing under-extrusion when switching over from brass or copper, we recommend that you increase your print temperature slightly until the results are deemed acceptable. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it is extremely hard to break one but if you do manage, they tend to crack rather than deform. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
==Stainless Steel==<br />
<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
<br />
==Plated Copper==<br />
<br />
These are the latest addition to the E3D ecosystem and provide an increased thermal conductivity. The nickel coating here has low surface energy which reduces plastic adhesion, and has potential to increase flow rate. Copper alloy also performs better at higher temperatures than other nozzles. Great for sticky materials like TPUs and PET-Gs as well as extreme temperature polymers like Ultem.<br />
<br />
=Sizes=<br />
<br />
<!--Insert pretty table of nozzles/sizes/materials/V6Volc etc--><br />
<br />
==Applications==<br />
<br />
===Fine Details===<br />
<br />
If you are looking for the ultimate nozzle in terms of precision, the [[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]] is sure to deliver. It is not as easy to use as our our other standard nozzles so we do not recommend them to first time users.<br />
If you are looking to try your hand at highly detailed prints but still want an easy to use nozzle, then 0.25mm and to some extent 0.3mm nozzles will allow you to get a feel of the particular requirements of high detail printing.<br />
<br />
===General Use==<br />
<br />
Our V6 hotends usually come with a 0.4 nozzle as standard, and the range from 0.3 to 0.6 has become the industry standard over the years. This is a good general purpose nozzle, which will give you a good compromise between resolution and print speed. We find that the V6 works best with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.25mm layer heights, while the Volcano achieves very good results with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer heights.<br />
<br />
===High Strength and High Printing Speed===<br />
<br />
The wider the nozzle, the wider the track, and the wider the track, the stronger the print. arts printed with large nozzles (0.8mm and above) tend to have incredible strength compared to regular prints. Having a wide nozzle also allows you to print much thicker layers, reducing the total print time drastically (more info on our [http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=extras/blog/getblog&blog_id=28 Volcano Blog Post]). If speed is your n°1 priority, we recommend using the Volcano with 1.75mm filament, as the filament has a lower thermal mass (due to a lower cross sectional area) and therefore heats up quicker when in the melt zone. The question here is: will your extruder keep up? Volcano comes with a 0.8mm nozzle as standard, but goes all the way up to 1.2mm for very large and noticeable layers. At this size, the layers have a certain aesthetic appeal to them, we think.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Settings=<br />
<br />
<!-- Print speed, layer height, materials, temperatures etc... depending on size/block used/material of nozzle--><br />
<br />
=Printers compatible with the E3D ecosystem=<br />
<br />
<!--Insert table of printers and which nozzles are compatible (V6, CY, Volc) --></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D_Nozzles&diff=7043E3D Nozzles2017-04-25T10:34:38Z<p>Adubaret: Created page with "This page is about E3D-V6, Volcano and Cyclops ecosystem nozzles. E3D V6 Nozzles are compatible with the V6, V5 and V4 blocks (hence can be used on the Chimera and Kraken), Vo..."</p>
<hr />
<div>This page is about E3D-V6, Volcano and Cyclops ecosystem nozzles.<br />
E3D V6 Nozzles are compatible with the V6, V5 and V4 blocks (hence can be used on the Chimera and Kraken), Volcano nozzles are only compatible with the Volcano block and Cyclops nozzles are only available on the Cyclops block.<br />
<br />
=Changing Nozzles=<br />
<br />
When swapping out E3D Nozzles from other E3D components, we recommend resorting to the hot tightening technique. <!-- Make own page?--><br />
Follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
The reason for this is that the aluminium heater clocks used by E3D have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the brass and steel used in the nozzles and heatbreaks. This results in a small gap being created between the nozzle and the break inside the block when the hotend is at temperature, but this only happens if the nozzle has been tightened while cold.<br />
<br />
=Materials=<br />
<br />
==Brass==<br />
<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles (see [[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]), doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
==Hardened Steel==<br />
<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. If you are experiencing under-extrusion when switching over from brass or copper, we recommend that you increase your print temperature slightly until the results are deemed acceptable. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it is extremely hard to break one but if you do manage, they tend to crack rather than deform. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
==Stainless Steel==<br />
<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
<br />
==Plated Copper==<br />
<br />
These are the latest addition to the E3D ecosystem and provide an increased thermal conductivity. The nickel coating here has low surface energy which reduces plastic adhesion, and has potential to increase flow rate. Copper alloy also performs better at higher temperatures than other nozzles. Great for sticky materials like TPUs and PET-Gs as well as extreme temperature polymers like Ultem.<br />
<br />
=Sizes=<br />
<br />
<!--Insert pretty table of nozzles/sizes/materials/V6Volc etc--><br />
<br />
==Applications==<br />
<br />
===Fine Details===<br />
<br />
If you are looking for the ultimate nozzle in terms of precision, the [[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]] is sure to deliver. It is not as easy to use as our our other standard nozzles so we do not recommend them to first time users.<br />
If you are looking to try your hand at highly detailed prints but still want an easy to use nozzle, then 0.25mm and to some extent 0.3mm nozzles will allow you to get a feel of the particular requirements of high detail printing.<br />
<br />
===General Use==<br />
<br />
Our V6 hotends usually come with a 0.4 nozzle as standard, and the range from 0.3 to 0.6 has become the industry standard over the years. This is a good general purpose nozzle, which will give you a good compromise between resolution and print speed. We find that the V6 works best with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.25mm layer heights, while the Volcano achieves very good results with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer heights.<br />
<br />
===High Strength and High Printing Speed===<br />
<br />
The wider the nozzle, the wider the track, and the wider the track, the stronger the print. arts printed with large nozzles (0.8mm and above) tend to have incredible strength compared to regular prints. Having a wide nozzle also allows you to print much thicker layers, reducing the total print time drastically (more info on our [http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=extras/blog/getblog&blog_id=28 Volcano Blog Post]). If speed is your n°1 priority, we recommend using the Volcano with 1.75mm filament, as the filament has a lower thermal mass (due to a lower cross sectional area) and therefore heats up quicker when in the melt zone. The question here is: will your extruder keep up? Volcano comes with a 0.8mm nozzle as standard, but goes all the way up to 1.2mm for very large and noticeable layers. At this size, the layers have a certain aesthetic appeal to them, we think.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Settings=<br />
<br />
<!-- Print speed, layer height, materials, temperatures etc... depending on size/block used/material of nozzle--><br />
<br />
=Printers compatible with the E3D ecosystem=<br />
<br />
<!--Insert table of printers and which nozzles are compatible (V6, CY, Volc) --></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=7042Main Page2017-04-25T09:47:35Z<p>Adubaret: /* HotEnd Documentation */</p>
<hr />
<div>== HotEnd Documentation ==<br />
* [[E3D-v6 Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D-Lite6 Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D-v6 (Volcano) Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D-v5 Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D-v4 Documentation]]<br />
* [[Kraken Documentation]]<br />
* [[Cyclops & Chimera Documentation]]<br />
* [[Lulzbot Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D Nozzles]]<br />
<br />
== Titan Documentation ==<br />
* [[Titan Assembly]]<br />
* [[Titan Prusai3]]<br />
* [[Titan_Aero|Titan Aero]]<br />
<br />
== Printer Conversion Kits ==<br />
* [[LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan %26 V6]]<br />
* [[E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2|Ultimaker 2 - V6 & Titan Optionally]]<br />
<br />
== E3D Electronics Documentation ==<br />
* [[E3D PT100 Amplifier Documentation]]<br />
* [[Temperature Sensor Documentation]]<br />
<br />
== E3D Mechanical Component Drawings ==<br />
* [[CAD]]<br />
* [[E3D HobbGoblin Drawings]]<br />
* [[Borosilicate Glass Beds]]<br />
* [[Silicone Rubber Heater Mats]]<br />
* [[Flexible Motor Couplings]]<br />
* [[DC Fans]]<br />
* [[Groove Mounting Plates]]<br />
<br />
== Filament ==<br />
* [[EDGE]]<br />
* [[Scaffold]]<br />
<br />
== BigBox ==<br />
* [[BigBox Build Manual]]<br />
<br />
== Support ==<br />
* [[FAQs]]<br />
* [http://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php Forum]<br />
* [[E3D-v6 Troubleshooting]]<br />
* [[Guidance on non 12v or 24v systems]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Documentation&diff=7041E3D-v6 Documentation2017-04-24T15:42:05Z<p>Adubaret: /* Which nozzle to choose? */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Assembly Guidelines ==<br />
=== Generic Assembly Guidelines ===<br />
See [[E3D-v6 Assembly]] for the assembly instructions. Please follow them to the letter!<br />
<br />
=== Printer Specific Guides ===<br />
There is £25 store credit available for any guide produced which conforms to E3D's [[Acceptable Guide Standard]].<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Airwolf HDx / HD2x]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Makibox ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Mendel 90 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Printrbot Simple Metal ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Prusa i3 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Renkforce RF1000]]<br />
* [http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-information-installation-guides-and-review.3407/ E3D-v6 on Robo3D R1]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Rostock Max ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle Press ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 1 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman k8200 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman K8400 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on XYZPrinting Davinci 1.0 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on RepRap Fisher ]]<br />
* ....<br />
<br />
== What's in the box ==<br />
<br />
; Metal Parts<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)<br />
: 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak<br />
: 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heater Block<br />
<br />
; Electronics<br />
: 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan<br />
: 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR<br />
: 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)<br />
: 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins<br />
<br />
; Fixings<br />
: 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct<br />
: 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor<br />
: 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge<br />
: 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)<br />
<br />
; Bowden Versions also Include<br />
: 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.<br />
: 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.<br />
<br />
== Nozzles ==<br />
===Which nozzle to choose?===<br />
====Brass====<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles, doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
====Hardened Steel====<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it's extremely hard to break one but if you do manage they crack rather than deforming. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
====Stainless Steel====<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
<br />
====Plated Copper====<br />
These are the latest addition to the E3D ecosystem and provide an increased thermal conductivity and a reduction in the surface energy of the nozzle. This helps to keep it clean as plastic is much less likely to stick to it.<br />
<br />
Unless you have a specific need for stainless steel nozzles you're probably better off going for brass or hardened steel. Stainless is much less conductive than brass, less wear resistant than hardened steel.<br />
<br />
=== Identification ===<br />
[[File:E3D-v6 Nozzle Series.jpg|center|300px|v6 Nozzle Series]]<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|-<br />
! # of Marks<br />
! Nozzle Size<br />
|-<br />
| 2 on 1 face<br />
| 0.15mm<br />
|-<br />
| 0<br />
| 0.25mm<br />
|-<br />
| 1<br />
| 0.30mm<br />
|-<br />
| 2<br />
| 0.35mm<br />
|-<br />
| 3<br />
| 0.40mm<br />
|-<br />
| 6 (Sorry..)<br />
| 0.50mm<br />
|-<br />
| 4<br />
| 0.60mm<br />
|-<br />
| 5<br />
| 0.80mm<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''The new 0.15 nozzles have no markings for the first 1.75mm batch. The following nozzles will be supplied with 2 dots on one face.''' Specific guides to 0.15 nozzles can be found here: <br />
*[[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/015-Nozzles Blog post]<br />
<!--*[Order online]--><br />
<br />
=== Swapping ===<br />
To swap out a nozzle, you must follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
== Engineering Drawings ==<br />
=== Current Drawings ===<br />
<br />
Please note that there has recently been a switch over to cartridge-style temperature sensors for ease of use and also enabling users to easily switch between thermistors, PT100s and thermocouples. For more information see our [[Temperature Sensor Documentation]].<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | HotEnd Version<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 1.75mm Universal<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Direct<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Bowden<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Assembly<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-D-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-B-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heatsink<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-SINK.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-D.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-B.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Fan Duct<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340312 E3D-v6 Fan Duct - Thingiverse]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heat Break<br />
| [[:File:V6-175-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
| colspan="2" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heater Block<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-BLOCK-CARTRIDGE.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Nozzle<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-NOZZLE-ALL.pdf]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Legacy Drawings ===<br />
[[:File:DRAWING-V6-BLOCK.png|E3D-v6 Blocks for Thermistors]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Documentation&diff=7040E3D-v6 Documentation2017-04-24T15:40:37Z<p>Adubaret: /* Swapping */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Assembly Guidelines ==<br />
=== Generic Assembly Guidelines ===<br />
See [[E3D-v6 Assembly]] for the assembly instructions. Please follow them to the letter!<br />
<br />
=== Printer Specific Guides ===<br />
There is £25 store credit available for any guide produced which conforms to E3D's [[Acceptable Guide Standard]].<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Airwolf HDx / HD2x]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Makibox ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Mendel 90 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Printrbot Simple Metal ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Prusa i3 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Renkforce RF1000]]<br />
* [http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-information-installation-guides-and-review.3407/ E3D-v6 on Robo3D R1]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Rostock Max ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle Press ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 1 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman k8200 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman K8400 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on XYZPrinting Davinci 1.0 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on RepRap Fisher ]]<br />
* ....<br />
<br />
== What's in the box ==<br />
<br />
; Metal Parts<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)<br />
: 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak<br />
: 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heater Block<br />
<br />
; Electronics<br />
: 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan<br />
: 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR<br />
: 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)<br />
: 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins<br />
<br />
; Fixings<br />
: 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct<br />
: 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor<br />
: 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge<br />
: 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)<br />
<br />
; Bowden Versions also Include<br />
: 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.<br />
: 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.<br />
<br />
== Nozzles ==<br />
===Which nozzle to choose?===<br />
====Brass====<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles, doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
====Hardened Steel====<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it's extremely hard to break one but if you do manage they crack rather than deforming. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
====Stainless Steel====<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
<br />
Unless you have a specific need for stainless steel nozzles you're probably better off going for brass or hardened steel. Stainless is much less conductive than brass, less wear resistant than hardened steel. <br />
<br />
=== Identification ===<br />
[[File:E3D-v6 Nozzle Series.jpg|center|300px|v6 Nozzle Series]]<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|-<br />
! # of Marks<br />
! Nozzle Size<br />
|-<br />
| 2 on 1 face<br />
| 0.15mm<br />
|-<br />
| 0<br />
| 0.25mm<br />
|-<br />
| 1<br />
| 0.30mm<br />
|-<br />
| 2<br />
| 0.35mm<br />
|-<br />
| 3<br />
| 0.40mm<br />
|-<br />
| 6 (Sorry..)<br />
| 0.50mm<br />
|-<br />
| 4<br />
| 0.60mm<br />
|-<br />
| 5<br />
| 0.80mm<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''The new 0.15 nozzles have no markings for the first 1.75mm batch. The following nozzles will be supplied with 2 dots on one face.''' Specific guides to 0.15 nozzles can be found here: <br />
*[[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/015-Nozzles Blog post]<br />
<!--*[Order online]--><br />
<br />
=== Swapping ===<br />
To swap out a nozzle, you must follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
== Engineering Drawings ==<br />
=== Current Drawings ===<br />
<br />
Please note that there has recently been a switch over to cartridge-style temperature sensors for ease of use and also enabling users to easily switch between thermistors, PT100s and thermocouples. For more information see our [[Temperature Sensor Documentation]].<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | HotEnd Version<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 1.75mm Universal<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Direct<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Bowden<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Assembly<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-D-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-B-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heatsink<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-SINK.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-D.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-B.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Fan Duct<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340312 E3D-v6 Fan Duct - Thingiverse]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heat Break<br />
| [[:File:V6-175-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
| colspan="2" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heater Block<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-BLOCK-CARTRIDGE.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Nozzle<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-NOZZLE-ALL.pdf]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Legacy Drawings ===<br />
[[:File:DRAWING-V6-BLOCK.png|E3D-v6 Blocks for Thermistors]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Documentation&diff=7039E3D-v6 Documentation2017-04-24T15:40:04Z<p>Adubaret: /* Identification */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Assembly Guidelines ==<br />
=== Generic Assembly Guidelines ===<br />
See [[E3D-v6 Assembly]] for the assembly instructions. Please follow them to the letter!<br />
<br />
=== Printer Specific Guides ===<br />
There is £25 store credit available for any guide produced which conforms to E3D's [[Acceptable Guide Standard]].<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Airwolf HDx / HD2x]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Makibox ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Mendel 90 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Printrbot Simple Metal ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Prusa i3 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Renkforce RF1000]]<br />
* [http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-information-installation-guides-and-review.3407/ E3D-v6 on Robo3D R1]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Rostock Max ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle Press ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 1 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman k8200 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman K8400 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on XYZPrinting Davinci 1.0 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on RepRap Fisher ]]<br />
* ....<br />
<br />
== What's in the box ==<br />
<br />
; Metal Parts<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)<br />
: 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak<br />
: 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heater Block<br />
<br />
; Electronics<br />
: 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan<br />
: 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR<br />
: 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)<br />
: 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins<br />
<br />
; Fixings<br />
: 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct<br />
: 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor<br />
: 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge<br />
: 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)<br />
<br />
; Bowden Versions also Include<br />
: 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.<br />
: 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.<br />
<br />
== Nozzles ==<br />
===Which nozzle to choose?===<br />
====Brass====<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles, doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
====Hardened Steel====<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it's extremely hard to break one but if you do manage they crack rather than deforming. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
====Stainless Steel====<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
<br />
Unless you have a specific need for stainless steel nozzles you're probably better off going for brass or hardened steel. Stainless is much less conductive than brass, less wear resistant than hardened steel. <br />
<br />
=== Identification ===<br />
[[File:E3D-v6 Nozzle Series.jpg|center|300px|v6 Nozzle Series]]<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|-<br />
! # of Marks<br />
! Nozzle Size<br />
|-<br />
| 2 on 1 face<br />
| 0.15mm<br />
|-<br />
| 0<br />
| 0.25mm<br />
|-<br />
| 1<br />
| 0.30mm<br />
|-<br />
| 2<br />
| 0.35mm<br />
|-<br />
| 3<br />
| 0.40mm<br />
|-<br />
| 6 (Sorry..)<br />
| 0.50mm<br />
|-<br />
| 4<br />
| 0.60mm<br />
|-<br />
| 5<br />
| 0.80mm<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''The new 0.15 nozzles have no markings for the first 1.75mm batch. The following nozzles will be supplied with 2 dots on one face.''' Specific guides to 0.15 nozzles can be found here: <br />
*[[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/015-Nozzles Blog post]<br />
<!--*[Order online]--><br />
<br />
=== Swapping ===<br />
To swap out a nozzle, you must follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285*C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
== Engineering Drawings ==<br />
=== Current Drawings ===<br />
<br />
Please note that there has recently been a switch over to cartridge-style temperature sensors for ease of use and also enabling users to easily switch between thermistors, PT100s and thermocouples. For more information see our [[Temperature Sensor Documentation]].<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | HotEnd Version<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 1.75mm Universal<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Direct<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Bowden<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Assembly<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-D-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-B-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heatsink<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-SINK.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-D.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-B.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Fan Duct<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340312 E3D-v6 Fan Duct - Thingiverse]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heat Break<br />
| [[:File:V6-175-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
| colspan="2" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heater Block<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-BLOCK-CARTRIDGE.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Nozzle<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-NOZZLE-ALL.pdf]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Legacy Drawings ===<br />
[[:File:DRAWING-V6-BLOCK.png|E3D-v6 Blocks for Thermistors]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Lulzbot_SOMEstruder_Documentation&diff=6975Lulzbot SOMEstruder Documentation2017-03-03T15:15:14Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS'''<br />
<br />
This hotend is designed as a standard hotend to be dropped in and replace the MOARstruder block to allow "standard" nozzles sizes and lower speeds to be achieved. It is fully compatile with the range of Hexagon nozzles.<br />
<br />
===Heater Block===<br />
[[File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER-BLOCK.pdf]]<br />
<br />
===Retention Plate===<br />
[[File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER-BLOCK.pdf&diff=6974File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER-BLOCK.pdf2017-03-03T15:15:04Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf&diff=6973File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf2017-03-03T15:13:22Z<p>Adubaret: Adubaret uploaded a new version of File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf&diff=6972File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf2017-03-03T15:12:16Z<p>Adubaret: Adubaret uploaded a new version of File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf&diff=6971File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf2017-03-03T15:10:32Z<p>Adubaret: Adubaret uploaded a new version of File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Lulzbot_SOMEstruder_Documentation&diff=6970Lulzbot SOMEstruder Documentation2017-03-03T15:09:46Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS'''<br />
<br />
This hotend is designed as a standard hotend to be dropped in and replace the MOARstruder block to allow "standard" nozzles sizes and lower speeds to be achieved. It is fully compatile with the range of Hexagon nozzles.<br />
<br />
[[File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf&diff=6969File:PR-AO-SOMESTRUDER.pdf2017-03-03T15:09:43Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Lulzbot_SOMEstruder_Documentation&diff=6955Lulzbot SOMEstruder Documentation2017-03-03T10:30:15Z<p>Adubaret: Created page with "'''THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS''' This hotend is designed as a standard hotend to be dropped in and replace the MOARstruder block to allow "standard" nozzles sizes and lower s..."</p>
<hr />
<div>'''THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS'''<br />
<br />
This hotend is designed as a standard hotend to be dropped in and replace the MOARstruder block to allow "standard" nozzles sizes and lower speeds to be achieved. It is fully compatile with the range of Hexagon nozzles.<br />
<br />
===Heater block===<br />
[[File:PR-AO-SHORT-BLOCK.pdf]]<br />
<br />
===Retention plate===<br />
[[File:PR-AO-SHORT-PLATE.pdf]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:PR-AO-SHORT-PLATE.pdf&diff=6954File:PR-AO-SHORT-PLATE.pdf2017-03-03T10:29:41Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:PR-AO-SHORT-BLOCK.pdf&diff=6953File:PR-AO-SHORT-BLOCK.pdf2017-03-03T10:29:19Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Lulzbot_MOARstruder_Documentation&diff=6952Lulzbot MOARstruder Documentation2017-03-03T10:22:24Z<p>Adubaret: Technical drawing added</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Draft version undergoing active review by Aleph Objects'''<br />
<br />
This page is about the Aleph Object [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-moarstruder-tool-head MOARstruder], developed in conjunction with E3D.<br />
The following are a set of instructions specifically for the assembly of the hotend, and are complimentary to the ones already available on [https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/moarstruder/ OHAI]. Please note that these instructions use the "hot-tightening" technique so do not necessitate the use of any sealing compounds and should require less torque during assembly.<br />
<br />
==Tooling Required==<br />
<br />
*Pliers and/or spanners (for holding the block and nozzle)<br />
*Allen keys corresponding to the screws used<br />
*A means of heating up your hotend and keeping it at a stable temperature (we recommend using a 3D printer)<br />
<br />
==Assembly Instructions==<br />
<br />
#By hand, screw in the HeatBreak into the heater block in the end furthest away from the sensor cartridge hole. The break must be screwed in to the point where the top of the threaded section is exactly flush with the top of the heater block.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-1.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]]<br />
<br />
#By hand, screw the nozzle into the other end of the heater block. When you feel it mate with the HeatBreak, you should see a gap of around 1mm between the top of the hex section on the nozzle and the heater block.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-2.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]]<br />
<br />
##If the gap is too large or small then the heat-break may be in too deep or not deep enough respectively, re-do step 1. <br />
##If the HeatBreak is in the correct place and the nozzle is still too close to the block, contact E3D for advice.<br />
<br />
#Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, very gently tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner. <br />
'''NB - at this stage we are just doing the nozzle up to the point where it will not fall out, ready for hot-tightening later. Accordingly finger-tight is plenty (around 1Nm). '''<br />
<br />
#Slide the sensor and heater cartridges into the block making sure that both pairs of leads exit from the side where the retainer plate is to be installed.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-3.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]]<br />
<br />
#Place the retention plate onto the side of the block where the wires come out and screw it into place with the supplied M3 socket cap screw. Make sure the sides of the plate are parallel to the sides of the block.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-4.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]]<br />
<br />
#Sliding the cartridges so that their housing is in contact with the plate, use the supplied M3 grubs screws to fix them in place.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-5.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]] <br />
<br />
It is important not to over-tighten the screw against the relatively soft copper-cased sensor cartridge, doing so can cause deformation of the cartridge making it hard to remove at a later date or even cracking of the potting ceramic resulting in poorer thermal response or in extreme circumstances, short circuit.<br />
<br />
#Check that the wires for the heater cartridge are well clear of the retaining plate and are not oriented in such a way that short-circuit could occur.<br />
<br />
#Place the HotEnd into a heat resistant surface and plug in the heater and thermistor wires into your assembly rig (or printer). '''DO NOT TOUCH ANY PART OF THE HOTEND WITH YOUR BARE HANDS FROM THIS STAGE ONWARDS''' (until the HotEnd has been turned off and the cooled to room temperature). <br />
<br />
#Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. <br />
##Try to avoid overshooting this temperature as this can potentially damage the thermistor temperature sensor (300°C).<br />
##Be also mindful of the tools getting hot and/or interfering with the temperature stability of your assembly rig (or printer). If the HotEnd is being held by pliers during the heating phase, the added thermal mass might cause the assembly rig (or printer) to suspect a “Thermal runaway”, and to raise the appropriate error. <br />
###To prevent this, avoid touching the HotEnd with the tools before it has reached the required hot tightening temperature. Once gripped, the HotEnd will cool due to the contact with the colder tools, and this might also raise a “Thermal runaway” error. <br />
###The process of tightening being very brief, this should not be too much of an issue. <br />
###If the error is raised by the software, simply turn it off and on again. <br />
###Please be careful as the HotEnd remains hot for a while after the heater has been turned off, avoid touching it with your bare hands.<br />
<br />
#When the HotEnd is at temperature, tighten the nozzle with a spanner whilst holding the heater block with another spanner. This will tighten the nozzle against the HeatBreak and ensure that your HotEnd does not leak. <br />
##You want to aim for 1.7Nm (15lb.in) of torque on the hot nozzle<br />
##The nozzle does not need to be torqued down incredibly tightly to form a good seal as when the block cools down, the aluminium will contract and hold the Nozzle and HeatBreak together with incredible force.<br />
##Tightening the nozzle too much might break the nozzle.<br />
##Note: The above process should negate the need for high tightening torques and the use of any sealing compounds.<br />
<br />
#Turn off your HotEnd heater, and let it cool.<br />
<br />
#Once the HotEnd has cooled enough (~40°C), turn off your assembly rig (or printer), screw in the heatsink and heatsink fan and mount your hotend to your carriage. <br />
<br />
#We recommend that you do not run your HotEnd at temperature without the heatsink fan being on. This reduces the chances of jamming happening in the HeatBreak.<br />
<br />
==Technical Drawings==<br />
<br />
===Moarstruder and retention plate===<br />
[[File:CC_AO_HE.pdf]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:CC_AO_HE.pdf&diff=6951File:CC AO HE.pdf2017-03-03T10:19:06Z<p>Adubaret: Drawings of the MOARstruder hotend.</p>
<hr />
<div>Drawings of the MOARstruder hotend.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=User:Adubaret&diff=6947User:Adubaret2017-03-02T14:24:34Z<p>Adubaret: Undo revision 6946 by Adubaret (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>Hello, I work at E3D now (Boffin team), why are you even reading this, go out and be social. The following is purely to make up the 50 words required. It is a beautiful piece of writing by the way:<br />
<br />
ô rage ! ô désespoir ! ô vieillesse ennemie !<br />
N'ai-je donc tant vécu que pour cette infamie ?<br />
Et ne suis-je blanchi dans les travaux guerriers <br />
Que pour voir en un jour flétrir tant de lauriers ?<br />
Mon bras qu'avec respect toute l'Espagne admire, <br />
Mon bras, qui tant de fois a sauvé cet empire, <br />
Tant de fois affermi le trône de son roi,<br />
Trahit donc ma querelle, et ne fait rien pour moi ?<br />
ô cruel souvenir de ma gloire passée !<br />
Oeuvre de tant de jours en un jour effacée !<br />
Nouvelle dignité fatale à mon bonheur !<br />
Précipice élevé d'où tombe mon honneur !<br />
Faut-il de votre éclat voir triompher le comte, <br />
Et mourir sans vengeance, ou vivre dans la honte ?</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=User:Adubaret&diff=6946User:Adubaret2017-03-02T14:20:49Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>Hello, I work at E3D now (Boffin team). The following is purely to make up the 50 words required. It is a beautiful piece of writing by the way:<br />
<br />
ô rage ! ô désespoir ! ô vieillesse ennemie !<br />
N'ai-je donc tant vécu que pour cette infamie ?<br />
Et ne suis-je blanchi dans les travaux guerriers <br />
Que pour voir en un jour flétrir tant de lauriers ?<br />
Mon bras qu'avec respect toute l'Espagne admire, <br />
Mon bras, qui tant de fois a sauvé cet empire, <br />
Tant de fois affermi le trône de son roi,<br />
Trahit donc ma querelle, et ne fait rien pour moi ?<br />
ô cruel souvenir de ma gloire passée !<br />
Oeuvre de tant de jours en un jour effacée !<br />
Nouvelle dignité fatale à mon bonheur !<br />
Précipice élevé d'où tombe mon honneur !<br />
Faut-il de votre éclat voir triompher le comte, <br />
Et mourir sans vengeance, ou vivre dans la honte ?</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ_5_Upgrade_V6-Titan_Assembly_Guide&diff=6945LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide2017-03-02T13:12:44Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|200px|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 E3D Upgrade Kit Assembly.]]<br />
This page provides a comprehensive guide to upgrade the LulzBot TAZ 5 to use the E3D V6 hotend and the E3D Titan extruder. This guide also covers the modifications required to convert your Taz 5 to run the E3D Volcano hotend. Installation instructions can be found on the main [[LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan %26 V6]] page.<br />
<br />
Printed part files can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2147519 Thingiverse].<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
This section list all required parts and tools to upgrade your Lulzbot Taz 5 to use the E3D V6 nozzle and the E3D Titan extruder.<br />
<br />
==Components==<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder Kit]<br />
*Titan Thumb Wheel (included in the current Titan Extruder kits)<br />
*Stepper Motor (Can be included in the Titan Extruder Kit)<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-Direct-full-kit-3mm-Direct V6 HotEnd Kit - 24V]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/40-40-10-24v-DC-Fan 40x40x10mm 24V Fan]<br />
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/8215714/ TAZ 5 Connector Housing]<br />
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-contacts/6794760/ 12x Crimp Pins]<br />
*2x M3x16mm Bolts<br />
*2x M3x12mm Bolts<br />
*4x M3 Nuts<br />
*100mm of 20mm Heat Shrink Tubing<br />
*2.5mm Cable Tie<br />
<br />
==Printed Parts==<br />
Printed part files can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2147519 Thingiverse].<br />
===Universal===<br />
*Printed TAZ 5 Adaptor plate<br />
*Printed TAZ 5 Thumb Wheel Ring<br />
<br />
===V6===<br />
*Printed V6 TAZ 5 Filament Cooling Nozzle<br />
<br />
===Volcano===<br />
*Printed Volcano TAZ 5 Filament Cooling Nozzle<br />
*Printed Volcano TAZ 5 Z-Axis Extender<br />
<br />
==Tools==<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
*Pliers<br />
*7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Medium Sized Philips Head Screwdriver<br />
*Crimping Tool<br />
*Wire Strippers<br />
*Heat Source for Heat-shrink Tubing (Lighter, Heatgun, Soldering Iron etc.)<br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
==HotEnd==<br />
<br />
===V6===<br />
[[File:V6 Wiring.jpg|right|300px|V6 Extruder Finished Wiring.]]<br />
<br />
The first step is to assemble the V6 HotEnd. Please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly V6 Assembly Page] for the full instructions. <br />
<br />
*Note that we want the 'direct' rather than 'Bowden' configuration in the V6 assembly instructions. Alternatively, you can purchase an already [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V6-hotend-Fully-Assembled-1.75mm-and-3mm assembled and hot-tightened hotend.]. Make sure to select the 24V Direct version.<br />
*You must decide here whether to configure the HotEnd for 1.75mm or 3mm filament. 3mm is the standard for the original LulzBot TAZ 5 head so you may wish to stick with this, however 1.75mm filament is becoming increasingly popular. <br />
*Ensure the wires exit in the direction shown when complete.<br />
*If installing a custom heating element, only use elements of 35W power or less due to the gauge of the LulzBot's internal wiring.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br style="clear:both" /><br />
<br />
===Volcano===<br />
The assembly process for volcano is very similar and follows the same guide as for the V6, see the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_(Volcano)_Documentation E3D Volcano Documentation] for any differences. The wires should exit in a similar manner to the V6.<br />
<br />
==Filament Cooling Fan==<br />
Use the two M3x16mm bolts and M3 nuts to attach the filament cooling fan and nozzle to the mounting point pictured. This is easiest done before mounting the stepper motor. <br />
[[File:Fan Mounting Holes.jpg|centre|300px|Location of Filament Cooling Fan Mounting Points.]]<br />
<br />
#Position the nozzle with the most curved side facing down as shown. [[File:Nozzle Direction.jpg|centre|300px|Correct Nozzle Orientation.]]<br />
#Position the fan with the label on the inside facing towards the nozzle and the wires in the closest position to the adaptor base. [[File:Fan Direction.jpg|centre|300px|Fan Mounting Direction]]<br />
#Place the two nuts into their seats located in the adaptor mounting point. [[File:Seated Nuts.jpg|centre|300px|Seated Nuts]]<br />
#Run the bolts through the appropriate two holes in the nozzle then through the fan holes. Align the bolts through the adaptor mounting holes and tighten into the seated nuts. [[File:Nozzle Mounted.jpg|centre|300px|Nozzle Mounted]]<br />
#Repeat this process for the two M3x12mm bolts and M3 nuts in the remaining nozzle and fan holes, this time the nuts are seated directly in the fan.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
==Titan Extruder==<br />
[[File:Assembly.jpg|right|300px|Finished Assembly.]]<br />
<br />
Once the V6 HotEnd has been assembled and the filament cooling fan has been installed we can assemble the Titan Extruder. Please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly Titan Assembly Page] for full instructions though '''read this section first''' as there are some differences. <br />
<br />
*The adaptor plate is mounted between the stepper motor and Titan Extruder, this is referred to as a 'spacer' in the titan documentation. <br />
*The motor wires should ideally face upwards towards the top of the adaptor plate, if this is not possible then they can face outwards. <br />
*Mount the stepper motor gear before assembling, leave a gap of approximately 0.5mm between the gear and motor face and ensure that the grub screw side of the gear is closest to the motor. Exact alignment instructions will be given in the Titan documentation.<br />
*The idler tension screw is replaced by the supplied idler tension thumb screw. This is mounted with the knurled end extending from the back of the Titan Extruder. the second ring is mounted in the slot where the screw head would usually sit and the spring over the threaded section. The printed thumb wheel extension should be press fit onto the knurled outer ring.<br />
*The heater block should be rotated such that it is a far from the cooling nozzle as possible, with the shortest face facing towards the nozzle and the wires exiting from the rear.<br />
*The heatsink fan should be mounted opposite to the cooling nozzle.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br style="clear:both" /><br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
<br />
Begin by running all wires through the heat shrink tubing. Cut the wires to length, strip the ends and crimp a crimp pin onto the end of each. The wiring loom should look as in the figure below when complete.<br />
[[File:Wiring Sleeve.jpg|centre|600px|Wiring Sleeve.]]<br />
<br />
The wires must be inserted into the included 16-socket connector housing once the head has been fully assembled. The correct pin placement is shown below as seen from the back of the connector when plugged in.<br />
[[File:LulzBot-Adaptor-Wiring.png|centre|794px|LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Connector Wiring Diagram.]]<br />
<br />
The crimped pins must be inserted into the connector housing as pictured. Ensure the latch pins face towards the outside of the housing when inserting. The pins can be pulled through fully with a pair of pliers - be very gentle. Once installed, ensure the pins are secured properly by placing light pressure on them with a hard object.<br />
[[File:Pin Orientation.jpg|centre|900px|Pin Orientation.]]<br />
<br />
The wires should be run underneath the motor and secured to the cable tie point shown below. Trim the loose end of the cable tie.<br />
[[File:Cable Tie Point.jpg|centre|600px|Cable Tie Point.]]<br />
<br />
Using a heat source, shrink the heat shrink tubing over the wiring to complete the assembly.<br />
<br />
'''For assembly, please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6 V6 and Titan upgrade guide].'''</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6&diff=6944LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan & V62017-03-02T13:11:21Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:LulzBot Upgraded.jpg|right|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the a [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit E3D LulzBot V6 hotend] and [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] onto your [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-5 LulzBot TAZ 5] 3D printer. '''Ensure the printer is switched off, unplugged and cooled down before beginning''', we also recommend that you unplug the power supply from printer as an additional precaution.<br />
<br />
The STL files are available on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2147519 Thingiverse].<br />
<br />
The final assembly has been designed to be drop in replacement for the original TAZ 5 head. However, there are a few changes required. '''Make sure to follow the instructions in the [[#Filament Cooling Fan Voltage|Filament Cooling Fan Voltage]] section before switching on your upgraded printer.''' There are also a few [[#Parameter Changes|Parameter Changes]] which need to be made for the upgrade to function correctly.<br />
<br />
If you would like to convert your existing LulzBot Upgrade Kit to use the Volcano heater block and nozzle, please go to the [[#Volcano Conversion|Volcano Conversion]] section.<br />
<br />
Full assembly instructions from the ground up and printed part files can be found on the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide]] page.<br />
<br />
This kit is based on an upgrade originally developed by Olivia Lam - many thanks for her contributions.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Components=<br />
[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|250px|Complete Assembly.]]<br />
*Fully assembled head with [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder], [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-Direct-full-kit-3mm-Direct V6 HotEnd] and filament cooling fan. See [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide]]<br />
*Lulzbot Taz 5<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Nozzle-Pack-3mm V6 Nozzle Fun Pack]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Volcano-Sensor-Cartridge-Block Volcano Heater Block], [http://e3d-online.com/Volcano-Extra-Nozzle-3.00mmx0.80mm 0.8mm Volcano Nozzle], Volcano Part Fan Duct, and Printed Z-Axis Riser (available to print from [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2147519 Thingiverse])<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
=Filament Cooling Fan Voltage=<br />
The V6 HotEnd heatsink fan is much larger than the stock TAZ 5 fan, it also runs on a higher voltage. As such a connector '''must be moved''' on the control board otherwise the fan will not spin, potentially causing hard-to-fix filament jams. The steps for doing this are as follows:<br />
<br />
#Ensure that the printer is switched off and unplugged, take care not to touch or short-circuit any pins as capacitors may still be charged even when off.<br />
#Remove the four bolts shown below from the TAZ 5 electronics enclosure, the enclosure cover should then detach from the main body. Place this carefully on the table ensuring the fan wire is not under tension. [[File:Box Screws.jpg|centre|600px|Box Screws.]] <br />
#Locate the connector below and remove it. [[File:Wire 1.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 1.]]<br />
#Reconnect the connector to the pins shown below in the top left corner of the board ensuring the positive (red) wire is on top. [[File:Wire 2.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 2.]]<br />
#Replace the enclosure cover ensuring the fan is free from any loose wires. Re-secure the four bolts.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove the old TAZ 5 head, ensure the nozzle has cooled down before handling. This simply requires the connector to be disconnected then the single hex bolt at the top of the head to be removed. Once this is done the head should slide out of its bracket.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Removal|centre|600px|TAZ Head Removal]] <br />
<br />
Install the new head into the TAZ 5 in a similar manner. This is best done by placing the right-hand corner into the mounting bracket then pressing the other side down to secure the head, this may require some force. Once mounted the securing screw at the top of the head assembly can be replaced.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Installation.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Head Installation]] <br />
<br />
Reconnect the connector ensuring that it is in the correct orientation and that all pins slide in correctly.<br />
[[File:TAZ Connector.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Connector]]<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Parameter Changes=<br />
Some parameters must be modified to account for the change in hardware.<br />
<br />
==Extruder Steps/mm==<br />
The extruder has a different gear ratio than the stock TAZ 5 head. The extruder speed must thus be changed in the TAZ 5 control panel.<br />
<br />
First press the selector wheel button, then scroll to '''Configuration''' then '''Advanced Settings''' and finally down to '''Esteps/mm'''. Change this value to '''456.0'''. Note this can be off by ±0.2mm as the wheel will not always allow for precise selection.<br />
<!--414.5 measured--><br />
Once changed, scroll back up to '''Configuration''' to return to the previous menu, then scroll and select '''Store memory''' to save your settings.<br />
<br />
In your slicer (eg. Cura) you must ensure that 'Extruder Steps per mm' is set to zero. This will prevent any override of your Esteps/mm setting. This should be zero by default but it may be worth checking.<br />
<br />
===Calibration of Extruder Steps/mm===<br />
It is recommended to confirm your steps/mm by following the [[Titan Assembly#Firmware Calibration| Titan Firmware Calibration]] section on the Titan page. This is especially important if using a different motor than the 1.8°/step motor (200 steps/revolution).<br />
<br />
==Nozzle Diameter==<br />
By default, E3D V6s will ship with a 0.4mm nozzle. If this is different from what you currently use, change this in your slicing settings.<br />
<br />
==Filament Cooling Fan Speed==<br />
<br />
The TAZ 5 filament cooling fan stock settings do not always give good results. It is recommended to increase the filament cooling fan speed to 80-100% in your slicer if you notice any sagging of parts or excessive warping during printing.<br />
<br />
==Z-Axis Re-Calibration==<br />
Whilst the upgrade has been designed to leave the head in approximately the same place as the standard TAZ head - you will need to follow the Z-Calibration steps outlined in the [http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5noz/documentation/Quick_Start_Guide/final/quick_start_guide.pdf TAZ Quick Start Guide].<br />
<br />
=Volcano Conversion=<br />
[[File:TAZ Volcano Nozzle.jpg|right|300px|TAZ Volcano Nozzle.]] <br />
These instructions outline the procedure for converting the TAZ 5 Upgrade to use the Volcano Heater Block and Nozzle.<br />
<br />
#Begin by following the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping E3D V6 nozzle swapping instructions] to remove the current V6 nozzle taking care not to touch the nozzle or heater block whilst hot. Once the nozzle has been removed wait for the hot end to cool down to room temperature before handling it.<br />
#When cooled, remove the V6 heater and thermistor cartridge by loosening their screw and grub screw respectively then pulling them out or pushing gently with an Allen key. Unscrew the V6 heater block from the heat break.<br />
#Insert the heater and thermistor cartridges into the Volcano block ensuring the wires exit on the notched side, the block should be aligned such that it matches the figure on the right. Insert and tighten the screws and grub screw to secure the heater and thermistor cartridges, ensuring they do not move when finished. Screw the Volcano block into the heat break by rotating the heatsink, this may require some disassembly of the Titan if it is difficult to rotate.<br />
#Insert the Volcano nozzle and finger tighten. Heat up the block again and follow the rest of the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping V6 Nozzle swapping guide] to hot tighten the assembly. When finished the furthest protruding side of the Volcano heater block should be facing backwards.<br />
#Remove the filament cooling fan and nozzle by unscrewing the four bolts. Replace the V6 Part Cooling Nozzle with the Volcano Part Cooling Nozzle and follow the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Kit Assembly Guide#Filament Cooling Fan|Filament Cooling Fan]] installation section in the Upgrade Kit assembly guide to install the new nozzle. '''EDIT'''<br />
#Clip the Z-Axis Riser onto the Z-Axis levelling screw as shown below.[[File:TAZ Volcano Z Riser.jpg|centre|300px|TAZ Volcano Z Riser.]]<br />
#Follow the bed levelling instructions in the [[#Z-Axis Re-Calibration|Z-Axis Re-Calibration]] section to bring the bed to level.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6&diff=6943LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan & V62017-03-02T12:19:45Z<p>Adubaret: /* Recommended Components */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:LulzBot Upgraded.jpg|right|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the a [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit E3D LulzBot V6 hotend] and [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] onto your [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-5 LulzBot TAZ 5] 3D printer. '''Ensure the printer is switched off, unplugged and cooled down before beginning''', we also recommend that you unplug the power supply from printer as an additional precaution.<br />
<br />
The STL files are available on [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse].<br />
<br />
The final assembly has been designed to be drop in replacement for the original TAZ 5 head. However, there are a few changes required. '''Make sure to follow the instructions in the [[#Filament Cooling Fan Voltage|Filament Cooling Fan Voltage]] section before switching on your upgraded printer.''' There are also a few [[#Parameter Changes|Parameter Changes]] which need to be made for the upgrade to function correctly.<br />
<br />
If you would like to convert your existing LulzBot Upgrade Kit to use the Volcano heater block and nozzle, please go to the [[#Volcano Conversion|Volcano Conversion]] section.<br />
<br />
Full assembly instructions from the ground up and printed part files can be found on the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide]] page.<br />
<br />
This kit is based on an upgrade originally developed by Olivia Lam - many thanks for her contributions.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Components=<br />
[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|250px|Complete Assembly.]]<br />
*Fully assembled head with [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder], [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-Direct-full-kit-3mm-Direct V6 HotEnd] and filament cooling fan. See [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide]]<br />
*Lulzbot Taz 5<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Nozzle-Pack-3mm V6 Nozzle Fun Pack]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Volcano-Sensor-Cartridge-Block Volcano Heater Block], [http://e3d-online.com/Volcano-Extra-Nozzle-3.00mmx0.80mm 0.8mm Volcano Nozzle], Volcano Part Fan Duct, and Printed Z-Axis Riser (available to print from [http://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse])<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
=Filament Cooling Fan Voltage=<br />
The V6 HotEnd heatsink fan is much larger than the stock TAZ 5 fan, it also runs on a higher voltage. As such a connector '''must be moved''' on the control board otherwise the fan will not spin, potentially causing hard-to-fix filament jams. The steps for doing this are as follows:<br />
<br />
#Ensure that the printer is switched off and unplugged, take care not to touch or short-circuit any pins as capacitors may still be charged even when off.<br />
#Remove the four bolts shown below from the TAZ 5 electronics enclosure, the enclosure cover should then detach from the main body. Place this carefully on the table ensuring the fan wire is not under tension. [[File:Box Screws.jpg|centre|600px|Box Screws.]] <br />
#Locate the connector below and remove it. [[File:Wire 1.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 1.]]<br />
#Reconnect the connector to the pins shown below in the top left corner of the board ensuring the positive (red) wire is on top. [[File:Wire 2.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 2.]]<br />
#Replace the enclosure cover ensuring the fan is free from any loose wires. Re-secure the four bolts.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove the old TAZ 5 head, ensure the nozzle has cooled down before handling. This simply requires the connector to be disconnected then the single hex bolt at the top of the head to be removed. Once this is done the head should slide out of its bracket.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Removal|centre|600px|TAZ Head Removal]] <br />
<br />
Install the new head into the TAZ 5 in a similar manner. This is best done by placing the right-hand corner into the mounting bracket then pressing the other side down to secure the head, this may require some force. Once mounted the securing screw at the top of the head assembly can be replaced.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Installation.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Head Installation]] <br />
<br />
Reconnect the connector ensuring that it is in the correct orientation and that all pins slide in correctly.<br />
[[File:TAZ Connector.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Connector]]<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Parameter Changes=<br />
Some parameters must be modified to account for the change in hardware.<br />
<br />
==Extruder Steps/mm==<br />
The extruder has a different gear ratio than the stock TAZ 5 head. The extruder speed must thus be changed in the TAZ 5 control panel.<br />
<br />
First press the selector wheel button, then scroll to '''Configuration''' then '''Advanced Settings''' and finally down to '''Esteps/mm'''. Change this value to '''456.0'''. Note this can be off by ±0.2mm as the wheel will not always allow for precise selection.<br />
<!--414.5 measured--><br />
Once changed, scroll back up to '''Configuration''' to return to the previous menu, then scroll and select '''Store memory''' to save your settings.<br />
<br />
In your slicer (eg. Cura) you must ensure that 'Extruder Steps per mm' is set to zero. This will prevent any override of your Esteps/mm setting. This should be zero by default but it may be worth checking.<br />
<br />
===Calibration of Extruder Steps/mm===<br />
It is recommended to confirm your steps/mm by following the [[Titan Assembly#Firmware Calibration| Titan Firmware Calibration]] section on the Titan page. This is especially important if using a different motor than the 1.8°/step motor (200 steps/revolution).<br />
<br />
==Nozzle Diameter==<br />
By default, E3D V6s will ship with a 0.4mm nozzle. If this is different from what you currently use, change this in your slicing settings.<br />
<br />
==Filament Cooling Fan Speed==<br />
<br />
The TAZ 5 filament cooling fan stock settings do not always give good results. It is recommended to increase the filament cooling fan speed to 80-100% in your slicer if you notice any sagging of parts or excessive warping during printing.<br />
<br />
==Z-Axis Re-Calibration==<br />
Whilst the upgrade has been designed to leave the head in approximately the same place as the standard TAZ head - you will need to follow the Z-Calibration steps outlined in the [http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5noz/documentation/Quick_Start_Guide/final/quick_start_guide.pdf TAZ Quick Start Guide].<br />
<br />
=Volcano Conversion=<br />
[[File:TAZ Volcano Nozzle.jpg|right|300px|TAZ Volcano Nozzle.]] <br />
These instructions outline the procedure for converting the TAZ 5 Upgrade to use the Volcano Heater Block and Nozzle.<br />
<br />
#Begin by following the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping E3D V6 nozzle swapping instructions] to remove the current V6 nozzle taking care not to touch the nozzle or heater block whilst hot. Once the nozzle has been removed wait for the hot end to cool down to room temperature before handling it.<br />
#When cooled, remove the V6 heater and thermistor cartridge by loosening their screw and grub screw respectively then pulling them out or pushing gently with an Allen key. Unscrew the V6 heater block from the heat break.<br />
#Insert the heater and thermistor cartridges into the Volcano block ensuring the wires exit on the notched side, the block should be aligned such that it matches the figure on the right. Insert and tighten the screws and grub screw to secure the heater and thermistor cartridges, ensuring they do not move when finished. Screw the Volcano block into the heat break by rotating the heatsink, this may require some disassembly of the Titan if it is difficult to rotate.<br />
#Insert the Volcano nozzle and finger tighten. Heat up the block again and follow the rest of the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping V6 Nozzle swapping guide] to hot tighten the assembly. When finished the furthest protruding side of the Volcano heater block should be facing backwards.<br />
#Remove the filament cooling fan and nozzle by unscrewing the four bolts. Replace the V6 Part Cooling Nozzle with the Volcano Part Cooling Nozzle and follow the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Kit Assembly Guide#Filament Cooling Fan|Filament Cooling Fan]] installation section in the Upgrade Kit assembly guide to install the new nozzle. '''EDIT'''<br />
#Clip the Z-Axis Riser onto the Z-Axis levelling screw as shown below.[[File:TAZ Volcano Z Riser.jpg|centre|300px|TAZ Volcano Z Riser.]]<br />
#Follow the bed levelling instructions in the [[#Z-Axis Re-Calibration|Z-Axis Re-Calibration]] section to bring the bed to level.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6&diff=6942LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan & V62017-03-02T12:18:31Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:LulzBot Upgraded.jpg|right|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the a [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit E3D LulzBot V6 hotend] and [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] onto your [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-5 LulzBot TAZ 5] 3D printer. '''Ensure the printer is switched off, unplugged and cooled down before beginning''', we also recommend that you unplug the power supply from printer as an additional precaution.<br />
<br />
The STL files are available on [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse].<br />
<br />
The final assembly has been designed to be drop in replacement for the original TAZ 5 head. However, there are a few changes required. '''Make sure to follow the instructions in the [[#Filament Cooling Fan Voltage|Filament Cooling Fan Voltage]] section before switching on your upgraded printer.''' There are also a few [[#Parameter Changes|Parameter Changes]] which need to be made for the upgrade to function correctly.<br />
<br />
If you would like to convert your existing LulzBot Upgrade Kit to use the Volcano heater block and nozzle, please go to the [[#Volcano Conversion|Volcano Conversion]] section.<br />
<br />
Full assembly instructions from the ground up and printed part files can be found on the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide]] page.<br />
<br />
This kit is based on an upgrade originally developed by Olivia Lam - many thanks for her contributions.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Components=<br />
[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|250px|Complete Assembly.]]<br />
*Fully assembled head with Titan Extruder, V6 HotEnd and filament cooling fan. See [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide]]<br />
*Lulzbot Taz 5<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Nozzle-Pack-3mm V6 Nozzle Fun Pack]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Volcano-Sensor-Cartridge-Block Volcano Heater Block], [http://e3d-online.com/Volcano-Extra-Nozzle-3.00mmx0.80mm 0.8mm Volcano Nozzle], Volcano Part Fan Duct, and Printed Z-Axis Riser (available to print from [http://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse])<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
=Filament Cooling Fan Voltage=<br />
The V6 HotEnd heatsink fan is much larger than the stock TAZ 5 fan, it also runs on a higher voltage. As such a connector '''must be moved''' on the control board otherwise the fan will not spin, potentially causing hard-to-fix filament jams. The steps for doing this are as follows:<br />
<br />
#Ensure that the printer is switched off and unplugged, take care not to touch or short-circuit any pins as capacitors may still be charged even when off.<br />
#Remove the four bolts shown below from the TAZ 5 electronics enclosure, the enclosure cover should then detach from the main body. Place this carefully on the table ensuring the fan wire is not under tension. [[File:Box Screws.jpg|centre|600px|Box Screws.]] <br />
#Locate the connector below and remove it. [[File:Wire 1.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 1.]]<br />
#Reconnect the connector to the pins shown below in the top left corner of the board ensuring the positive (red) wire is on top. [[File:Wire 2.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 2.]]<br />
#Replace the enclosure cover ensuring the fan is free from any loose wires. Re-secure the four bolts.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove the old TAZ 5 head, ensure the nozzle has cooled down before handling. This simply requires the connector to be disconnected then the single hex bolt at the top of the head to be removed. Once this is done the head should slide out of its bracket.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Removal|centre|600px|TAZ Head Removal]] <br />
<br />
Install the new head into the TAZ 5 in a similar manner. This is best done by placing the right-hand corner into the mounting bracket then pressing the other side down to secure the head, this may require some force. Once mounted the securing screw at the top of the head assembly can be replaced.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Installation.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Head Installation]] <br />
<br />
Reconnect the connector ensuring that it is in the correct orientation and that all pins slide in correctly.<br />
[[File:TAZ Connector.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Connector]]<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Parameter Changes=<br />
Some parameters must be modified to account for the change in hardware.<br />
<br />
==Extruder Steps/mm==<br />
The extruder has a different gear ratio than the stock TAZ 5 head. The extruder speed must thus be changed in the TAZ 5 control panel.<br />
<br />
First press the selector wheel button, then scroll to '''Configuration''' then '''Advanced Settings''' and finally down to '''Esteps/mm'''. Change this value to '''456.0'''. Note this can be off by ±0.2mm as the wheel will not always allow for precise selection.<br />
<!--414.5 measured--><br />
Once changed, scroll back up to '''Configuration''' to return to the previous menu, then scroll and select '''Store memory''' to save your settings.<br />
<br />
In your slicer (eg. Cura) you must ensure that 'Extruder Steps per mm' is set to zero. This will prevent any override of your Esteps/mm setting. This should be zero by default but it may be worth checking.<br />
<br />
===Calibration of Extruder Steps/mm===<br />
It is recommended to confirm your steps/mm by following the [[Titan Assembly#Firmware Calibration| Titan Firmware Calibration]] section on the Titan page. This is especially important if using a different motor than the 1.8°/step motor (200 steps/revolution).<br />
<br />
==Nozzle Diameter==<br />
By default, E3D V6s will ship with a 0.4mm nozzle. If this is different from what you currently use, change this in your slicing settings.<br />
<br />
==Filament Cooling Fan Speed==<br />
<br />
The TAZ 5 filament cooling fan stock settings do not always give good results. It is recommended to increase the filament cooling fan speed to 80-100% in your slicer if you notice any sagging of parts or excessive warping during printing.<br />
<br />
==Z-Axis Re-Calibration==<br />
Whilst the upgrade has been designed to leave the head in approximately the same place as the standard TAZ head - you will need to follow the Z-Calibration steps outlined in the [http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5noz/documentation/Quick_Start_Guide/final/quick_start_guide.pdf TAZ Quick Start Guide].<br />
<br />
=Volcano Conversion=<br />
[[File:TAZ Volcano Nozzle.jpg|right|300px|TAZ Volcano Nozzle.]] <br />
These instructions outline the procedure for converting the TAZ 5 Upgrade to use the Volcano Heater Block and Nozzle.<br />
<br />
#Begin by following the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping E3D V6 nozzle swapping instructions] to remove the current V6 nozzle taking care not to touch the nozzle or heater block whilst hot. Once the nozzle has been removed wait for the hot end to cool down to room temperature before handling it.<br />
#When cooled, remove the V6 heater and thermistor cartridge by loosening their screw and grub screw respectively then pulling them out or pushing gently with an Allen key. Unscrew the V6 heater block from the heat break.<br />
#Insert the heater and thermistor cartridges into the Volcano block ensuring the wires exit on the notched side, the block should be aligned such that it matches the figure on the right. Insert and tighten the screws and grub screw to secure the heater and thermistor cartridges, ensuring they do not move when finished. Screw the Volcano block into the heat break by rotating the heatsink, this may require some disassembly of the Titan if it is difficult to rotate.<br />
#Insert the Volcano nozzle and finger tighten. Heat up the block again and follow the rest of the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping V6 Nozzle swapping guide] to hot tighten the assembly. When finished the furthest protruding side of the Volcano heater block should be facing backwards.<br />
#Remove the filament cooling fan and nozzle by unscrewing the four bolts. Replace the V6 Part Cooling Nozzle with the Volcano Part Cooling Nozzle and follow the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Kit Assembly Guide#Filament Cooling Fan|Filament Cooling Fan]] installation section in the Upgrade Kit assembly guide to install the new nozzle. '''EDIT'''<br />
#Clip the Z-Axis Riser onto the Z-Axis levelling screw as shown below.[[File:TAZ Volcano Z Riser.jpg|centre|300px|TAZ Volcano Z Riser.]]<br />
#Follow the bed levelling instructions in the [[#Z-Axis Re-Calibration|Z-Axis Re-Calibration]] section to bring the bed to level.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6&diff=6941LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan & V62017-03-01T13:57:24Z<p>Adubaret: /* Installation */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:LulzBot Upgraded.jpg|right|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the a [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit E3D LulzBot V6 hotend] and [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] onto your [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-5 LulzBot TAZ 5] 3D printer. '''Ensure the printer is switched off, unplugged and cooled down before beginning''', we also recommend that you unplug the power supply from printer as an additional precaution.<br />
<br />
The STL files are available on [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. '''EDIT'''<br />
<br />
The final assembly has been designed to be drop in replacement for the original TAZ 5 head. However, there are a few changes required. '''Make sure to follow the instructions in the [[#Filament Cooling Fan Voltage|Filament Cooling Fan Voltage]] section before switching on your upgraded printer.''' There are also a few [[#Parameter Changes|Parameter Changes]] which need to be made for the upgrade to function correctly.<br />
<br />
If you would like to convert your existing LulzBot Upgrade Kit to use the Volcano heater block and nozzle, please go to the [[#Volcano Conversion|Volcano Conversion]] section.<br />
<br />
Full assembly instructions from the ground up and printed part files can be found on the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide]] page.<br />
<br />
This kit is based on an upgrade originally developed by Olivia Lam - many thanks for her contributions.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Components=<br />
[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|250px|Complete Assembly.]]<br />
*Fully assembled head with Titan Extruder, V6 HotEnd and filament cooling fan. See [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/ assembly guide] '''EDIT'''<br />
*Lulzbot Taz 5<br />
*V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
*Volcano Heater Block, 0.8mm Volcano Nozzle, Volcano Part Fan Duct, and Printed Z-Axis Riser<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
=Filament Cooling Fan Voltage=<br />
The V6 HotEnd heatsink fan is much larger than the stock TAZ 5 fan, it also runs on a higher voltage. As such a connector '''must be moved''' on the control board otherwise the fan will not spin, potentially causing hard-to-fix filament jams. The steps for doing this are as follows:<br />
<br />
#Ensure that the printer is switched off and unplugged, take care not to touch or short-circuit any pins as capacitors may still be charged even when off.<br />
#Remove the four bolts shown below from the TAZ 5 electronics enclosure, the enclosure cover should then detach from the main body. Place this carefully on the table ensuring the fan wire is not under tension. [[File:Box Screws.jpg|centre|600px|Box Screws.]] <br />
#Locate the connector below and remove it. [[File:Wire 1.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 1.]]<br />
#Reconnect the connector to the pins shown below in the top left corner of the board ensuring the positive (red) wire is on top. [[File:Wire 2.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 2.]]<br />
#Replace the enclosure cover ensuring the fan is free from any loose wires. Re-secure the four bolts.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove the old TAZ 5 head, ensure the nozzle has cooled down before handling. This simply requires the connector to be disconnected then the single hex bolt at the top of the head to be removed. Once this is done the head should slide out of its bracket.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Removal|centre|600px|TAZ Head Removal]] <br />
<br />
Install the new head into the TAZ 5 in a similar manner. This is best done by placing the right-hand corner into the mounting bracket then pressing the other side down to secure the head, this may require some force. Once mounted the securing screw at the top of the head assembly can be replaced.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Installation.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Head Installation]] <br />
<br />
Reconnect the connector ensuring that it is in the correct orientation and that all pins slide in correctly.<br />
[[File:TAZ Connector.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Connector]]<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Parameter Changes=<br />
Some parameters must be modified to account for the change in hardware.<br />
<br />
==Extruder Steps/mm==<br />
The extruder has a different gear ratio than the stock TAZ 5 head. The extruder speed must thus be changed in the TAZ 5 control panel.<br />
<br />
First press the selector wheel button, then scroll to '''Configuration''' then '''Advanced Settings''' and finally down to '''Esteps/mm'''. Change this value to '''456.0'''. Note this can be off by ±0.2mm as the wheel will not always allow for precise selection.<br />
<!--414.5 measured--><br />
Once changed, scroll back up to '''Configuration''' to return to the previous menu, then scroll and select '''Store memory''' to save your settings.<br />
<br />
In your slicer (eg. Cura) you must ensure that 'Extruder Steps per mm' is set to zero. This will prevent any override of your Esteps/mm setting. This should be zero by default but it may be worth checking.<br />
<br />
===Calibration of Extruder Steps/mm===<br />
It is recommended to confirm your steps/mm by following the [[Titan Assembly#Firmware Calibration| Titan Firmware Calibration]] section on the Titan page. This is especially important if using a different motor than the 1.8°/step motor (200 steps/revolution).<br />
<br />
==Nozzle Diameter==<br />
By default, E3D V6s will ship with a 0.4mm nozzle. If this is different from what you currently use, change this in your slicing settings.<br />
<br />
==Filament Cooling Fan Speed==<br />
<br />
The TAZ 5 filament cooling fan stock settings do not always give good results. It is recommended to increase the filament cooling fan speed to 80-100% in your slicer if you notice any sagging of parts or excessive warping during printing.<br />
<br />
==Z-Axis Re-Calibration==<br />
Whilst the upgrade has been designed to leave the head in approximately the same place as the standard TAZ head - you will need to follow the Z-Calibration steps outlined in the [http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5noz/documentation/Quick_Start_Guide/final/quick_start_guide.pdf TAZ Quick Start Guide].<br />
<br />
=Volcano Conversion=<br />
[[File:TAZ Volcano Nozzle.jpg|right|300px|TAZ Volcano Nozzle.]] <br />
These instructions outline the procedure for converting the TAZ 5 Upgrade to use the Volcano Heater Block and Nozzle.<br />
<br />
#Begin by following the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping E3D V6 nozzle swapping instructions] to remove the current V6 nozzle taking care not to touch the nozzle or heater block whilst hot. Once the nozzle has been removed wait for the hot end to cool down to room temperature before handling it.<br />
#When cooled, remove the V6 heater and thermistor cartridge by loosening their screw and grub screw respectively then pulling them out or pushing gently with an Allen key. Unscrew the V6 heater block from the heat break.<br />
#Insert the heater and thermistor cartridges into the Volcano block ensuring the wires exit on the notched side, the block should be aligned such that it matches the figure on the right. Insert and tighten the screws and grub screw to secure the heater and thermistor cartridges, ensuring they do not move when finished. Screw the Volcano block into the heat break by rotating the heatsink, this may require some disassembly of the Titan if it is difficult to rotate.<br />
#Insert the Volcano nozzle and finger tighten. Heat up the block again and follow the rest of the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping V6 Nozzle swapping guide] to hot tighten the assembly. When finished the furthest protruding side of the Volcano heater block should be facing backwards.<br />
#Remove the filament cooling fan and nozzle by unscrewing the four bolts. Replace the V6 Part Cooling Nozzle with the Volcano Part Cooling Nozzle and follow the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Kit Assembly Guide#Filament Cooling Fan|Filament Cooling Fan]] installation section in the Upgrade Kit assembly guide to install the new nozzle. '''EDIT'''<br />
#Clip the Z-Axis Riser onto the Z-Axis levelling screw as shown below.[[File:TAZ Volcano Z Riser.jpg|centre|300px|TAZ Volcano Z Riser.]]<br />
#Follow the bed levelling instructions in the [[#Z-Axis Re-Calibration|Z-Axis Re-Calibration]] section to bring the bed to level.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6&diff=6940LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan & V62017-03-01T13:36:56Z<p>Adubaret: DIY upgrade release</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:LulzBot Upgraded.jpg|right|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the a [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit E3D LulzBot V6 hotend] and [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] onto your [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-5 LulzBot TAZ 5] 3D printer. '''Ensure the printer is switched off, unplugged and cooled down before beginning''', we also recommend that you unplug the power supply from printer as an additional precaution.<br />
<br />
The STL files are available on [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. '''EDIT'''<br />
<br />
The final assembly has been designed to be drop in replacement for the original TAZ 5 head. However, there are a few changes required. '''Make sure to follow the instructions in the [[#Filament Cooling Fan Voltage|Filament Cooling Fan Voltage]] section before switching on your upgraded printer.''' There are also a few [[#Parameter Changes|Parameter Changes]] which need to be made for the upgrade to function correctly.<br />
<br />
If you would like to convert your existing LulzBot Upgrade Kit to use the Volcano heater block and nozzle, please go to the [[#Volcano Conversion|Volcano Conversion]] section.<br />
<br />
Full assembly instructions from the ground up and printed part files can be found on the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide]] page.<br />
<br />
This kit is based on an upgrade originally developed by Olivia Lam - many thanks for her contributions.<br />
<br />
=Recommended Components=<br />
[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|250px|Complete Assembly.]]<br />
*Fully assembled head with Titan Extruder, V6 HotEnd and filament cooling fan. See [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/ assembly guide] '''EDIT'''<br />
*Lulzbot Taz 5<br />
*V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
*Volcano Heater Block, 0.8mm Volcano Nozzle, Volcano Part Fan Duct, and Printed Z-Axis Riser<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
=Filament Cooling Fan Voltage=<br />
The V6 HotEnd heatsink fan is much larger than the stock TAZ 5 fan, it also runs on a higher voltage. As such a connector '''must be moved''' on the control board otherwise the fan will not spin, potentially causing hard-to-fix filament jams. The steps for doing this are as follows:<br />
<br />
#Ensure that the printer is switched off and unplugged, take care not to touch or short-circuit any pins as capacitors may still be charged even when off.<br />
#Remove the four bolts shown below from the TAZ 5 electronics enclosure, the enclosure cover should then detach from the main body. Place this carefully on the table ensuring the fan wire is not under tension. [[File:Box Screws.jpg|centre|600px|Box Screws.]] <br />
#Locate the connector below and remove it. [[File:Wire 1.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 1.]]<br />
#Reconnect the connector to the pins shown below in the top left corner of the board ensuring the positive (red) wire is on top. [[File:Wire 2.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 2.]]<br />
#Replace the enclosure cover ensuring the fan is free from any loose wires. Re-secure the four bolts.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove the old TAZ 5 head, ensure the nozzle has cooled down before handling. This simply requires the connector to be disconnected then the single hex bolt at the top of the head to be removed. Once this is done the head should slide out of its bracket.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Removal|centre|600px|TAZ Head Removal.]] <br />
<br />
Install the new head into the TAZ 5 in a similar manner. This is best done by placing the right-hand corner into the mounting bracket then pressing the other side down to secure the head, this may require some force. Once mounted the securing screw at the top of the head assembly can be replaced.<br />
[[File:TAZ Head Installation.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Head Installation.]] <br />
<br />
Reconnect the connector ensuring that it is in the correct orientation and that all pins slide in correctly.<br />
[[File:TAZ Connector.jpg|centre|600px|TAZ Connector]]<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
=Parameter Changes=<br />
Some parameters must be modified to account for the change in hardware.<br />
<br />
==Extruder Steps/mm==<br />
The extruder has a different gear ratio than the stock TAZ 5 head. The extruder speed must thus be changed in the TAZ 5 control panel.<br />
<br />
First press the selector wheel button, then scroll to '''Configuration''' then '''Advanced Settings''' and finally down to '''Esteps/mm'''. Change this value to '''456.0'''. Note this can be off by ±0.2mm as the wheel will not always allow for precise selection.<br />
<!--414.5 measured--><br />
Once changed, scroll back up to '''Configuration''' to return to the previous menu, then scroll and select '''Store memory''' to save your settings.<br />
<br />
In your slicer (eg. Cura) you must ensure that 'Extruder Steps per mm' is set to zero. This will prevent any override of your Esteps/mm setting. This should be zero by default but it may be worth checking.<br />
<br />
===Calibration of Extruder Steps/mm===<br />
It is recommended to confirm your steps/mm by following the [[Titan Assembly#Firmware Calibration| Titan Firmware Calibration]] section on the Titan page. This is especially important if using a different motor than the 1.8°/step motor (200 steps/revolution).<br />
<br />
==Nozzle Diameter==<br />
By default, E3D V6s will ship with a 0.4mm nozzle. If this is different from what you currently use, change this in your slicing settings.<br />
<br />
==Filament Cooling Fan Speed==<br />
<br />
The TAZ 5 filament cooling fan stock settings do not always give good results. It is recommended to increase the filament cooling fan speed to 80-100% in your slicer if you notice any sagging of parts or excessive warping during printing.<br />
<br />
==Z-Axis Re-Calibration==<br />
Whilst the upgrade has been designed to leave the head in approximately the same place as the standard TAZ head - you will need to follow the Z-Calibration steps outlined in the [http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5noz/documentation/Quick_Start_Guide/final/quick_start_guide.pdf TAZ Quick Start Guide].<br />
<br />
=Volcano Conversion=<br />
[[File:TAZ Volcano Nozzle.jpg|right|300px|TAZ Volcano Nozzle.]] <br />
These instructions outline the procedure for converting the TAZ 5 Upgrade to use the Volcano Heater Block and Nozzle.<br />
<br />
#Begin by following the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping E3D V6 nozzle swapping instructions] to remove the current V6 nozzle taking care not to touch the nozzle or heater block whilst hot. Once the nozzle has been removed wait for the hot end to cool down to room temperature before handling it.<br />
#When cooled, remove the V6 heater and thermistor cartridge by loosening their screw and grub screw respectively then pulling them out or pushing gently with an Allen key. Unscrew the V6 heater block from the heat break.<br />
#Insert the heater and thermistor cartridges into the Volcano block ensuring the wires exit on the notched side, the block should be aligned such that it matches the figure on the right. Insert and tighten the screws and grub screw to secure the heater and thermistor cartridges, ensuring they do not move when finished. Screw the Volcano block into the heat break by rotating the heatsink, this may require some disassembly of the Titan if it is difficult to rotate.<br />
#Insert the Volcano nozzle and finger tighten. Heat up the block again and follow the rest of the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping V6 Nozzle swapping guide] to hot tighten the assembly. When finished the furthest protruding side of the Volcano heater block should be facing backwards.<br />
#Remove the filament cooling fan and nozzle by unscrewing the four bolts. Replace the V6 Part Cooling Nozzle with the Volcano Part Cooling Nozzle and follow the [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Kit Assembly Guide#Filament Cooling Fan|Filament Cooling Fan]] installation section in the Upgrade Kit assembly guide to install the new nozzle. '''EDIT'''<br />
#Clip the Z-Axis Riser onto the Z-Axis levelling screw as shown below.[[File:TAZ Volcano Z Riser.jpg|centre|300px|TAZ Volcano Z Riser.]]<br />
#Follow the bed levelling instructions in the [[#Z-Axis Re-Calibration|Z-Axis Re-Calibration]] section to bring the bed to level.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ_5_Upgrade_V6-Titan_Assembly_Guide&diff=6939LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade V6-Titan Assembly Guide2017-03-01T13:36:46Z<p>Adubaret: Created page with "LulzBot TAZ 5 E3D Upgrade Kit Assembly. This page provides a comprehensive guide to upgrade the LulzBot TAZ 5 to use the E3D V..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|200px|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 E3D Upgrade Kit Assembly.]]<br />
This page provides a comprehensive guide to upgrade the LulzBot TAZ 5 to use the E3D V6 hotend and the E3D Titan extruder. This guide also covers the modifications required to convert your Taz 5 to run the E3D Volcano hotend. Installation instructions can be found on the main [[LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Kit]] page. '''EDIT'''<br />
<br />
Printed part files can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse]. '''EDIT'''<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
This section list all required parts and tools to upgrade your Lulzbot Taz 5 to use the E3D V6 nozzle and the E3D Titan extruder.<br />
<br />
==Components==<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder Kit]<br />
*Titan Thumb Wheel (included in the current Titan Extruder kits)<br />
*Stepper Motor (Can be included in the Titan Extruder Kit)<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-Direct-full-kit-3mm-Direct V6 HotEnd Kit - 24V]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/40-40-10-24v-DC-Fan 40x40x10mm 24V Fan]<br />
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-housings/8215714/ TAZ 5 Connector Housing]<br />
*[http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-connector-contacts/6794760/ 12x Crimp Pins]<br />
*2x M3x16mm Bolts<br />
*2x M3x12mm Bolts<br />
*4x M3 Nuts<br />
*100mm of 20mm Heat Shrink Tubing<br />
*2.5mm Cable Tie<br />
<br />
==Printed Parts==<br />
Printed part files can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com Thingiverse].<br />
===Universal===<br />
*Printed TAZ 5 Adaptor plate<br />
*Printed TAZ 5 Thumb Wheel Ring<br />
<br />
===V6===<br />
*Printed V6 TAZ 5 Filament Cooling Nozzle<br />
<br />
===Volcano===<br />
*Printed Volcano TAZ 5 Filament Cooling Nozzle<br />
*Printed Volcano TAZ 5 Z-Axis Extender<br />
<br />
==Tools==<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
*Pliers<br />
*7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Medium Sized Philips Head Screwdriver<br />
*Crimping Tool<br />
*Wire Strippers<br />
*Heat Source for Heat-shrink Tubing (Lighter, Heatgun, Soldering Iron etc.)<br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
==HotEnd==<br />
<br />
===V6===<br />
[[File:V6 Wiring.jpg|right|300px|V6 Extruder Finished Wiring.]]<br />
<br />
The first step is to assemble the V6 HotEnd. Please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly V6 Assembly Page] for the full instructions. <br />
<br />
*Note that we want the 'direct' rather than 'Bowden' configuration in the V6 assembly instructions. Alternatively, you can purchase an already [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V6-hotend-Fully-Assembled-1.75mm-and-3mm assembled and hot-tightened hotend.]. Make sure to select the 24V Direct version.<br />
*You must decide here whether to configure the HotEnd for 1.75mm or 3mm filament. 3mm is the standard for the original LulzBot TAZ 5 head so you may wish to stick with this, however 1.75mm filament is becoming increasingly popular. <br />
*Ensure the wires exit in the direction shown when complete.<br />
*If installing a custom heating element, only use elements of 35W power or less due to the gauge of the LulzBot's internal wiring.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br style="clear:both" /><br />
<br />
===Volcano===<br />
The assembly process for volcano is very similar and follows the same guide as for the V6, see the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_(Volcano)_Documentation E3D Volcano Documentation] for any differences. The wires should exit in a similar manner to the V6.<br />
<br />
==Filament Cooling Fan==<br />
Use the two M3x16mm bolts and M3 nuts to attach the filament cooling fan and nozzle to the mounting point pictured. This is easiest done before mounting the stepper motor. <br />
[[File:Fan Mounting Holes.jpg|centre|300px|Location of Filament Cooling Fan Mounting Points.]]<br />
<br />
#Position the nozzle with the most curved side facing down as shown. [[File:Nozzle Direction.jpg|centre|300px|Correct Nozzle Orientation.]]<br />
#Position the fan with the label on the inside facing towards the nozzle and the wires in the closest position to the adaptor base. [[File:Fan Direction.jpg|centre|300px|Fan Mounting Direction]]<br />
#Place the two nuts into their seats located in the adaptor mounting point. [[File:Seated Nuts.jpg|centre|300px|Seated Nuts]]<br />
#Run the bolts through the appropriate two holes in the nozzle then through the fan holes. Align the bolts through the adaptor mounting holes and tighten into the seated nuts. [[File:Nozzle Mounted.jpg|centre|300px|Nozzle Mounted]]<br />
#Repeat this process for the two M3x12mm bolts and M3 nuts in the remaining nozzle and fan holes, this time the nuts are seated directly in the fan.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
==Titan Extruder==<br />
[[File:Assembly.jpg|right|300px|Finished Assembly.]]<br />
<br />
Once the V6 HotEnd has been assembled and the filament cooling fan has been installed we can assemble the Titan Extruder. Please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly Titan Assembly Page] for full instructions though '''read this section first''' as there are some differences. <br />
<br />
*The adaptor plate is mounted between the stepper motor and Titan Extruder, this is referred to as a 'spacer' in the titan documentation. <br />
*The motor wires should ideally face upwards towards the top of the adaptor plate, if this is not possible then they can face outwards. <br />
*Mount the stepper motor gear before assembling, leave a gap of approximately 0.5mm between the gear and motor face and ensure that the grub screw side of the gear is closest to the motor. Exact alignment instructions will be given in the Titan documentation.<br />
*The idler tension screw is replaced by the supplied idler tension thumb screw. This is mounted with the knurled end extending from the back of the Titan Extruder. the second ring is mounted in the slot where the screw head would usually sit and the spring over the threaded section. The printed thumb wheel extension should be press fit onto the knurled outer ring.<br />
*The heater block should be rotated such that it is a far from the cooling nozzle as possible, with the shortest face facing towards the nozzle and the wires exiting from the rear.<br />
*The heatsink fan should be mounted opposite to the cooling nozzle.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br style="clear:both" /><br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
<br />
Begin by running all wires through the heat shrink tubing. Cut the wires to length, strip the ends and crimp a crimp pin onto the end of each. The wiring loom should look as in the figure below when complete.<br />
[[File:Wiring Sleeve.jpg|centre|600px|Wiring Sleeve.]]<br />
<br />
The wires must be inserted into the included 16-socket connector housing once the head has been fully assembled. The correct pin placement is shown below as seen from the back of the connector when plugged in.<br />
[[File:LulzBot-Adaptor-Wiring.png|centre|794px|LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Connector Wiring Diagram.]]<br />
<br />
The crimped pins must be inserted into the connector housing as pictured. Ensure the latch pins face towards the outside of the housing when inserting. The pins can be pulled through fully with a pair of pliers - be very gentle. Once installed, ensure the pins are secured properly by placing light pressure on them with a hard object.<br />
[[File:Pin Orientation.jpg|centre|900px|Pin Orientation.]]<br />
<br />
The wires should be run underneath the motor and secured to the cable tie point shown below. Trim the loose end of the cable tie.<br />
[[File:Cable Tie Point.jpg|centre|600px|Cable Tie Point.]]<br />
<br />
Using a heat source, shrink the heat shrink tubing over the wiring to complete the assembly.<br />
<br />
'''For assembly, please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6 V6 and Titan upgrade guide].'''</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Titan_Prusai3&diff=6938Titan Prusai32017-03-01T13:04:19Z<p>Adubaret: /* Compatibility */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
A guide to upgrading your Prusa i3 3D printer to use the E3D-Extruder and a V6 HotEnd.<br />
<br />
This guide was originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Introduction =<br />
[[File:Wades-E3D_Comparison.jpg|left|thumb|Greg's Wade on the left, E3D on the right.]]<br />
There are many incarnations of the Prusa i3, the one used in this example is but one of them, accordingly there may additional or redundant steps in this guide. Please familiarise yourself with the steps in the guide and establish if it is relevant and possible on your printer before choosing to continue. <br />
<br />
The Titan, V6 combo gives you a compact extrusion system with a 3:1 reduction giving you the correct balance of power and speed. The assembly can be easily fitted to your Prusa i3 with minimum effort and skill required. Here is a quick side by side comparison showing the size difference between the common Greg's Wade extruder and the E3D geared extruder:<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both;"><br />
<br />
= Compatibility =<br />
As briefly mentioned earlier, the plethora of Prusa i3's available makes assuring compatibility hard. <br />
<br />
This guide assumes the following:<br />
* 8mm Rods using LM8UU Bearings (or similar).<br />
* 45mm Rod Spacing, ~15mm Belt Spacing. <br />
* One bearing on the top rod, two on the bottom, or the other way around.<br />
<br />
= You Will Need (Links & Downloads) =<br />
* 1 x Prusa i3<br />
* 1 x NEMA17 Motor (Shaft - 5mm D x 19mm Long (MIN))<br />
* 1 x [http://e3d-online.com/Prusa-i3-Upgrade-Kit E3D Prusa i3 Upgrade Kit]<br />
** 1 x [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder]<br />
** 1 x [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D-v6 HotEnd (1.75mm Direct 12v)]<br />
** 1 x [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1310161 Printed X Carriage]<br />
** 6 x 2.5mm Cable Ties<br />
* 1 x E3D Prusa i3 Cooling Fan Upgrade (Optional)<br />
** 1 x 50mm 12V Radial Fan<br />
** 1 x [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1310161 Printed Fan Mount]<br />
** 2 x M3 x 40 Machine Screws<br />
<br />
= Required Tools =<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Craft knife.jpg|Craft knife or scalpel.<br />
File:Wire Cutters.jpeg|Wire cutters for cutting cable ties. Could use craft knife etc.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
= Leftovers =<br />
You may find that you can reuse some of your old fixings, this depends on your current printer setup. <br />
<br />
This is what we had left over: <br />
<br />
[[File:Left Over Parts.jpg|left|thumb|Some bits left over from upgrade.]]<br />
* 1 x Printed 'X' rail carriage.<br />
* 1 x Printed Extruder assembly.<br />
* 1 x Printed Motor gear.<br />
* A handful of plastic cable ties.<br />
* Motor screws.<br />
* Extruder mount nuts and screws.<br />
* Empty cup of tea.<br />
<br style="clear: both;"><br />
<br />
<br />
= Disassembly =<br />
We are going to remove the old carriage and HotEnd. If you already have an E3D-v6 and/or compatible motor installed, of course don't go and disconnect them. <br />
<br />
[[File:Cut Cable Ties.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Cut the cable ties.]]<br />
* Cut the cable ties holding the LM8UU linear bearings in the X carriage.<br />
* Cut the cable ties holding the two ends of the belts in place.<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
[[File:Carriage Removed.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Carriage Removed.]]<br />
* Remove extruder and carriage assembly. <br />
* Keep the old assembly away from bed to work without risk of bed damage.<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
* Remove motor screws (x3) using 2mm hex wrench.<br />
* Remove gear from motor using appropriate sized hex wernch.<br />
* (Optional) To remove an E3D hotend from a Wade Extruder:<br />
** Unscrew and fully retract the two screws that keep the extruder attached to the X Carriage.<br />
** Pull with a twisting motion the hot end from the extruder taking care to only grab via the heatsink.<br />
** If you intend on replacing the current hot end with a new one then remove the hot end cables from the wiring loom, back to the electronics board and disconnect.<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_before_dismantling.jpeg|thumb|left|Extruder before dismantling (Wades).]]<br />
[[File:Extruder after dismantling.jpeg|thumb|left|Extruder after dismantling (Was a Wades).]]<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
= Assembly =<br />
<br />
== E3D-v6 Assembly ==<br />
If you do not already have an assembled E3D-v6 - follow the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly E3D-v6 Assembly] instructions.<br />
<br />
== E3D Titan Assembly ==<br />
<br />
To assemble the extruder we are going to follow the standard assembly instructions. Before following moving onto the instructions, please note the following:<br />
* Instead of using the bracket shown in the documentation, use the printed bracket specifically for the i3. <br />
* The spacing of the i3 bracket is the nominal 2mm required for Titan, so you can use the standard, shorter fixings.<br />
<br />
[http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan-Assembly E3D Titan Assembly]<br />
<br />
Now that you are done with the extruder assembly, you should have a single assembly with the new X Carriage clamped between the extruder and the motor face.<br />
<br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Assembly_Onto_Carriage1.jpeg|thumb|left|X-Carriage parts.]] </li><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Assembly_Onto_Carriage2.jpeg|thumb|left|X-Carriage Assembled.]] </li><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Assembly_Onto_Carriage3.jpeg|thumb|left|X-Carriage Assembled.]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
== Assembling X-Carriage onto Printer ==<br />
[[File:Carriage_Onto_Rails1.jpeg|thumb|Rear of X-Carriage assembled onto rail, with belt teardrop fixations.]]<br />
<br />
* The whole X-Carriage can now be offered up to the parallel rails. <br />
** Locate the LM8UU bearings into the bearing slots on the rear of the carriage.<br />
* Thread the 2.5mm cable ties though the small slot, they should re-appear on the opposite side of the bearings.<br />
** Secure the cable ties tight to hold the X-Carriage in place. <br />
* Release the X-Belt tension pulley then loop the belts around the teardrop anchors and back on themselves so that the belt teeth lock against each other.<br />
** Slide the belt loops all the way into their respective slots on the back of the X-Carriage. <br />
** Try to get this as tight as you can, then use the X-Belt tension pulley to achieve final tension required. You may want to refer to the documentation that came with your machine for this step. <br />
<br />
[[File:Carriage_Onto_Rails2.jpeg|thumb|Front of X-Carriage assembled onto rail.]]<br />
<br />
<br style="clear: both;"><br />
<br />
= Electronics =<br />
<br />
If you already had an E3D HotEnd fitted and are choosing to use this same one with the new extruder then you will already have this wired in back to your electronics board. All that remains is that you suitably tidy up the cables around the newly fitted X-Carriage.<br /><br />
<br />
If you are fitting a new E3D HotEnd then follow the relevant instructions in the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly E3D-v6 Assembly Documentation].<br />
<br />
The thermistor will plug directly into the headers where you removed your previous sensor from. Please note that unless you were using a Semitec Thermistor previously, you may need to update your firmware to use the correct thermistor tables. <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Not using a thermistor?'''<br />
[[File:PT100_loom.jpeg|thumb|left|The PT100 amplifier board and thermocouple sensor lead.]] <br />
<br />
E3D also offer PT100 and Thermocouple sensors - unless you have one of the more advanced electronics board that has inputs for those sensors, you will need an amplifier to use these. <br />
<br />
For our printer, we used an E3D-v6 with a PT100 sensor to allow the HotEnd to reach 400°C. This required the additional PT100 Amplifier board to convert the sensors signal into an analogue output which can be read by the RAMPS.<br />
<br />
Please note that the PT100 board does not plug into the same place as the thermistor. Instead it plugs into 3 pins, a +5V, a negative and a signal pin. The signal pin will have to be assigned in the firmware to read from the PT100 board. The most common electronics used on the Prusa i3 is the [http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 RAMPS 1.4 board] and E3D have already produced good documentation on how to connect the PT100 board to RAMPS 1.4 [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D_PT100_Amplifier_Documentation here].<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
= Firmware =<br />
<br />
There are only two simple changes that may need to be made to the firmware. Once you have made these changes, upload the new version and you are ready to go. <br />
<br />
== For the HotEnd ==<br />
<br />
Again, refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly E3D-v6 Assembly Documentation] for more information on firmware modifications required.<br />
<br />
If you choose a PT100 or thermocouple, your HotEnd will be able to reach higher temperatures than with the standard thermistor. Accordingly, your new maximum temperature is 400°C, limited by the Aluminium heater block. <br />
<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
==For the Extruder.==<br />
<br />
The only thing you will need to update is your steps per mm. For a standard 200 step motor with 16x micro-stepping you will need:<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {___,___,___,456} ;<br />
<br />
For a more in-depth explanation, see the Titan documentation.<br />
<br />
=Optional Part Cooling Fan Upgrade=<br />
If you would like to add a part cooling fan to the X-Carriage then this is a simple retrofit add-on. The fan holder is attached after the X-Carriage is already fitted to the printer.<br />
*Insert the radial fan onto the printed holder.<br />
*Attach the two 40mm long screws through the fan and the holder and into to the two holes in the X-Carriage.<br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Fan_in_Holder.jpeg|thumb|left|Insert the fan into the holder.]] </li><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Fan_Holder_Carriage.jpeg|thumb|left|Screw the fan and holder onto the rear of the X-Carriage.]] </li><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:X-Carriage_Assy.jpeg|thumb|left|A slightly bird like part cooling fan.]] </li><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:X-Carriage_Assy2.jpeg|thumb|left|A slightly boat like part cooling fan.]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
==Fan Electronics==<br />
On RAMPS 1.4 you need to tell the Firmware that you are running an Extruder, Cooling Fan and Heated bed combination (EFB). This will then assign Pin 9 to control the fan speed.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
With older Marlin firmware with a numerical designation, you will need to edit this line to be 33 (Extruder, Fan, Bed):<br />
#define MOTHERBOARD 33<br />
For the latest Marlin firmware the parameter is :<br />
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB<br />
<br />
The part fan now needs to be wired into the +/- of pin 9 on the RAMPS 1.4 board:<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Pins9.jpeg|thumb|left|The part fan cabling needs routing back through the loom to +/- of D9.]] </li><br />
<br />
=Gallery of Finished Conversion.=<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Gallery1.jpeg<br />
File:Gallery2.jpeg<br />
File:Gallery6.jpeg<br />
File:Gallery3.jpeg<br />
File:Gallery4.jpeg<br />
File:Gallery5.jpeg<br />
File:Gallery7.jpeg<br />
File:Gallery8.jpeg<br />
</gallery></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Lulzbot_MOARstruder_Documentation&diff=6937Lulzbot MOARstruder Documentation2017-02-10T10:42:14Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Draft version undergoing active review by Aleph Objects'''<br />
<br />
This page is about the Aleph Object [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-moarstruder-tool-head MOARstruder], developed in conjunction with E3D.<br />
The following are a set of instructions specifically for the assembly of the hotend, and are complimentary to the ones already available on [https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/moarstruder/ OHAI]. Please note that these instructions use the "hot-tightening" technique so do not necessitate the use of any sealing compounds and should require less torque during assembly.<br />
<br />
==Tooling Required==<br />
<br />
*Pliers and/or spanners (for holding the block and nozzle)<br />
*Allen keys corresponding to the screws used<br />
*A means of heating up your hotend and keeping it at a stable temperature (we recommend using a 3D printer)<br />
<br />
==Assembly Instructions==<br />
<br />
#By hand, screw in the HeatBreak into the heater block in the end furthest away from the sensor cartridge hole. The break must be screwed in to the point where the top of the threaded section is exactly flush with the top of the heater block.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-1.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]]<br />
<br />
#By hand, screw the nozzle into the other end of the heater block. When you feel it mate with the HeatBreak, you should see a gap of around 1mm between the top of the hex section on the nozzle and the heater block.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-2.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]]<br />
<br />
##If the gap is too large or small then the heat-break may be in too deep or not deep enough respectively, re-do step 1. <br />
##If the HeatBreak is in the correct place and the nozzle is still too close to the block, contact E3D for advice.<br />
<br />
#Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, very gently tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner. <br />
'''NB - at this stage we are just doing the nozzle up to the point where it will not fall out, ready for hot-tightening later. Accordingly finger-tight is plenty (around 1Nm). '''<br />
<br />
#Slide the sensor and heater cartridges into the block making sure that both pairs of leads exit from the side where the retainer plate is to be installed.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-3.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]]<br />
<br />
#Place the retention plate onto the side of the block where the wires come out and screw it into place with the supplied M3 socket cap screw. Make sure the sides of the plate are parallel to the sides of the block.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-4.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]]<br />
<br />
#Sliding the cartridges so that their housing is in contact with the plate, use the supplied M3 grubs screws to fix them in place.<br />
<br />
[[File:Moar-5.jpg|none|300px|Moarstruder Assembly]] <br />
<br />
It is important not to over-tighten the screw against the relatively soft copper-cased sensor cartridge, doing so can cause deformation of the cartridge making it hard to remove at a later date or even cracking of the potting ceramic resulting in poorer thermal response or in extreme circumstances, short circuit.<br />
<br />
#Check that the wires for the heater cartridge are well clear of the retaining plate and are not oriented in such a way that short-circuit could occur.<br />
<br />
#Place the HotEnd into a heat resistant surface and plug in the heater and thermistor wires into your assembly rig (or printer). '''DO NOT TOUCH ANY PART OF THE HOTEND WITH YOUR BARE HANDS FROM THIS STAGE ONWARDS''' (until the HotEnd has been turned off and the cooled to room temperature). <br />
<br />
#Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. <br />
##Try to avoid overshooting this temperature as this can potentially damage the thermistor temperature sensor (300°C).<br />
##Be also mindful of the tools getting hot and/or interfering with the temperature stability of your assembly rig (or printer). If the HotEnd is being held by pliers during the heating phase, the added thermal mass might cause the assembly rig (or printer) to suspect a “Thermal runaway”, and to raise the appropriate error. <br />
###To prevent this, avoid touching the HotEnd with the tools before it has reached the required hot tightening temperature. Once gripped, the HotEnd will cool due to the contact with the colder tools, and this might also raise a “Thermal runaway” error. <br />
###The process of tightening being very brief, this should not be too much of an issue. <br />
###If the error is raised by the software, simply turn it off and on again. <br />
###Please be careful as the HotEnd remains hot for a while after the heater has been turned off, avoid touching it with your bare hands.<br />
<br />
#When the HotEnd is at temperature, tighten the nozzle with a spanner whilst holding the heater block with another spanner. This will tighten the nozzle against the HeatBreak and ensure that your HotEnd does not leak. <br />
##You want to aim for 1.7Nm (15lb.in) of torque on the hot nozzle<br />
##The nozzle does not need to be torqued down incredibly tightly to form a good seal as when the block cools down, the aluminium will contract and hold the Nozzle and HeatBreak together with incredible force.<br />
##Tightening the nozzle too much might break the nozzle.<br />
##Note: The above process should negate the need for high tightening torques and the use of any sealing compounds.<br />
<br />
#Turn off your HotEnd heater, and let it cool.<br />
<br />
#Once the HotEnd has cooled enough (~40°C), turn off your assembly rig (or printer), screw in the heatsink and heatsink fan and mount your hotend to your carriage. <br />
<br />
#We recommend that you do not run your HotEnd at temperature without the heatsink fan being on. This reduces the chances of jamming happening in the HeatBreak.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Moar-5.jpg&diff=6924File:Moar-5.jpg2017-02-09T14:58:12Z<p>Adubaret: Taken from OHAI</p>
<hr />
<div>Taken from OHAI</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Moar-4.jpg&diff=6923File:Moar-4.jpg2017-02-09T14:57:59Z<p>Adubaret: Taken from OHAI</p>
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<div>Taken from OHAI</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Moar-3.jpg&diff=6922File:Moar-3.jpg2017-02-09T14:57:46Z<p>Adubaret: Taken from OHAI</p>
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<div>Taken from OHAI</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Moar-2.jpg&diff=6921File:Moar-2.jpg2017-02-09T14:57:33Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
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<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Moar-1.jpg&diff=6920File:Moar-1.jpg2017-02-09T14:57:25Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
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<div></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6907E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22017-02-06T16:24:49Z<p>Adubaret: /* Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/Ultimaker-Extrusion-Upgrade-Kit E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to this [https://youtu.be/aLLci32tHA4 '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the E3D Ultimaker Upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
The printed components used for this upgrade can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 '''Thingiverse'''].<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head. Save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip from the Bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the Bowden collet with your fingernails or the Bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from its bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part-cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead. Hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as shown then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead. Each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new Bowden tube into its collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and Bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), Bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the Bowden tube into the Bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original head. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : ''TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V''. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
'''You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly.''' To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. You can also use the Arduino IDE if you feel more confident in using this method.<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##Download the [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware] by clicking on the green '''Clone or download''' button, and then '''Download as Zip'''.<br />
##Once downloaded, extract the files named '''Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex''' and '''E3DV6 EEPROM default.gcode'''.<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up '''Cura 15 or earlier''' as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#'''DO NOT FORGET THIS STEP!'''Copy the .gcode file onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
'''If you want to further customise your firmware the following is a run-down of the exact changes made to the firmware to produce the hex file used above. If you have followed the above steps using the .hex file you do can ignore this section.'''<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve Wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature safety feature built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to its expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error as the air blown to cool the print can also end up cooling the heater block due to certain print geometry. Although the silicone sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
If you repeatedly encounter this issue, check the position of your part cooling fan ducts. They should be as low as possible without touching the bed when the nozzle does. Also, adding a siliconw sock can greatly reduce this error. Otherwise, the following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". <br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 0.1 //[E3D] original value 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (90000) //[E3D] original value(30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicone sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, different extrusion systems require different settings, so the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory and we really recommend the creation of new slicing configurations. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Reverting back to stock configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), install the appropriate default ultimaker firmware for your machine version and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.<br />
<br />
=FAQ=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''What can I print with my E3D upgrade?'''<br />
|Any 3D printing filaments you can find! Up to hotend temperatures of 400°C<br />
|-<br />
|'''What does E3D mean for my Ultimaker?'''<br />
|E3D's modular extrusion system has every sized nozzle you could ever want, in a variety of materials, so you can print super-abrasive filaments such as carbon fibre or Glow PLA, by simply swapping your nozzle for a hardened steel version. You'll also start off with an awesome selection of 6 brass nozzles to get you started on printing with big, fat layers, or very fine detail.<br />
|-<br />
|'''What's the little YELLOW printed part?'''<br />
|It's for pushing down the connector that holds your filament guide tubing at each end (Bowden tube release tool).<br />
|-<br />
|'''All the wires look the same?'''<br />
|They should all arrive labelled at the lower end of the cables. If any labels have come loose, just watch the video guide or read the wiki to see where everything goes.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My hotend doesn't hit the endstop on the X and/or Y axis? '''<br />
|Check the wiki, you have probably mounted the carriage backwards or on the wrong side. No modifications are required to your endstops when assembled correctly.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some under-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that you have uploaded the correct version of the firmware to your Ultimaker and that you have run the SD configuration file. Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Also, check your idler tension, we recommend making it tighter than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some over-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Check your idler tension. We recommend making it tighter rather than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction. Also, as above, check that the right filament diameter has been used, especially when using Simplify3D, where the default filament diameter is 1.75mm.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My first layer is not sticking to the bed.'''<br />
|Run the calibration procedure on the Ultimaker, and coat your bed with a light layer of UHU stick if you are using anything other than PLA. Also, run the bed hot to the material specifications.<br />
|-<br />
|'''How do I change my filament diameter in Cura 2.X?'''<br />
|You cannot, Ultimaker have "greyed it out". You can still see it in the settings, but unfortunately, in this latest version, you cannot change it. We recommend using and old version of Cura (15.X), which allows you to change the filament diameter in the advanced settings, or to use another slicer. We particularly recommend Simplify3D, which already has an Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended profile. If you still want to use Cura 2.X, you still can, make sure, as mentioned above, to select the right filament diameter as you insert your filament, by creating a custom profile.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does the filament change function still function on my upgraded Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended ?'''<br />
|Yes it does.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does my upgraded Ultimaker work with flexibles?'''<br />
|Yes it does. However the less soft flexibles are much easier to get running. We still recommend running the printing speed at 50% or lower of what you normally would.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Comparison Table=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''PRINTER AND PRINTING PROPERTIES'''<br />
|'''UM2'''<br />
|'''UM2+'''<br />
|'''E3D EDITION'''<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead'''<br />
|Fixed 0.4mm nozzle<br />
|Swappable nozzle<br />
|E3D v6 ecosystem<br />
|-<br />
|'''Build volume'''<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|218 x 215 x ~205mm (~305mm for Extended)<br />
|-<br />
|'''Filament Diameter'''<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead travel speed'''<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|-<br />
|'''X, Y, Z Resolution'''<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|-<br />
|'''Material Capability'''<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|Pretty much any filament apart from the softest flexibles<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Diameters'''<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.3<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.35<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.5<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Materials'''<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass, Hardened Steel, Stainless Steel<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle temperature'''<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|Up to 380C<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle heatup time'''<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|-<br />
|'''Extruder'''<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|E3D Titan Extruder<br />
|}</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Assembly&diff=6866E3D-v6 Assembly2017-01-24T13:44:40Z<p>Adubaret: /* Marlin */</p>
<hr />
<div>Assembly of the E3D-v6 HotEnd should be an easy process that takes no more than half an hour. Please follow the instructions on this page carefully to ensure that you assemble the HotEnd correctly.<br />
<br />
<br />
== What's in the box ==<br />
<br />
; Metal Parts<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)<br />
: 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heater Block<br />
: 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)<br />
<br />
; Electronics<br />
: 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor with<br />
: 100mm x Silicone Fibreglass Sleeving<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30W Heater Cartridge<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan<br />
: 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR<br />
: 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)<br />
: 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins<br />
<br />
; Fixings<br />
: 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct<br />
: 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor<br />
: 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge<br />
: 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)<br />
<br />
; Bowden Versions also Include<br />
: 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.<br />
: 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== What you need ==<br />
<br />
* 16mm Spanner<br />
* 7mm Spanner<br />
* Pozi-Drive Screwdriver<br />
* M2.5 Hex Wrench - we supply these in the kit when possible<br />
<br />
== Warnings - Please Read! ==<br />
<br />
# The HeatBreak is fragile. If you are using a large spanner, hitting it with a hammer, etc. It will break.<br />
# If you are not using a thermistor cartridge, be careful with the thermistor, it is small and fragile. Be gentle with the legs. The bead is made of glass - don't crush! It is also very small, so don't breathe.<br />
# Cable-tie all cables together as additional strain relief. It is important to ensure the wires of the fan and the red/black section of the thermistor cable are cable-tied and strain relieved in such a way that they cannot come into contact with the heater block at any time. <br />
# You are dealing with high temperatures - the HotEnd gets hot, and may be off your printer when you do the initial tightening. If you touch it, you will get burned!<br />
# You are dealing with high currents, make sure you double check all your wiring and your power supply rating. It is not recommended to work on anything whilst it is plugged in. Bad wiring with improper current ratings can cause fire.<br />
# Be sure you have ordered (and received!) the correct voltage heater and fan to match your 3D printer. If the heater cartridge specification is not lasered onto the cartridge, you can easily check with a multimeter, this is described in the [[#Heater_Cartridge]] section. Connecting 12v parts to 24v power can result in overheating, component damage or fire.<br />
# The E3D-v6 is a high performance HotEnd, capable of reaching a wide range of temperatures. The temperatures that ignite some plastics are within the normal printing temperatures of other plastics. If you only plan on printing ABS, PLA, and/or Nylon, it is recommended that you set your heater cartridge “MAX_PWM” to 150 in your firmware, in order to limit the E3D’s heater to a range suitable for these plastics. If you are not printing materials requiring ~300C, there is no need for “MAX_PWM" to be set over 150. This variable can usually be found in the configuration.h file of your printers firmware. You can always change it to a higher value when you want to experiment with higher temperatures, it is much more difficult to extinguish a housefire.<br />
# Like all 3D printers, printers fitted with a high temperature all metal hotend can be a fire hazard. You are using experimental technology to heat and melt plastic, in a machine that you may have built or modified yourself, that likely does not have safety certification or significant failsafes. Fire/Smoke alarms, supervision of your printer while printing, and expertise should not be considered optional.<br />
# Your HotEnd and your printer is your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.<br />
<br />
== Assembly Steps ==<br />
=== HotSide ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertNozzle.jpg|thumb|left|Nozzle screwed into block, and unscrewed a 1/2 turn.]]<br />
Screw Nozzle into the Heater Block into the end closest to the thermistor holes.<br />
Unscrew the Nozzle a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertBreak.jpg|thumb|left|Break screwed into block level with top of block.]]<br />
Screw the Heat Break into the other side of the Heater Block so it is butts up against the nozzle.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FirstTighten.jpg|thumb|left|A first, slight tightening of the nozzle against the break.]]<br />
Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner. '''Do not over-tighten, we are going to tighten it up later when the heater block is hot.'''<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
=== Thermistor ===<br />
We have moved away from the tedious sleeving, washer & screw arrangement for mounting our thermistors to our high-performance cartridge style sensors. <br />
<br />
* If you have a new-style block and cartridge sensor keep reading. <br />
* If you need the old-style instructions, they can be found on the [[E3D-v6 Assembly (Old Wiring)]] page.<br />
* If you want to understand more about the various sensor options for E3D-v6 read the [[Temperature Sensor Documentation]].<br />
* Cable-tie all cables together as additional strain relief. It is important to ensure the wires of the fan and the red/black section of the thermistor cable are cable-tied and strain relieved in such a way that they cannot come into contact with the heater block at any time.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:sensor-insertion.png|thumb|left|new easy insertion of thermistor cartridge]]<br />
<br />
Simply slide the sensor cartridge into the heater block and use the supplied M3 grub screw to fix the cartridge into place. Tighten the grub screw until it just touches up against the cartridge, then do one more half turn. <br />
<br />
It is important not to over-tighten the screw against the relatively soft copper cartridge, doing so can cause a range of annoying problems:<br />
<br />
# Deformation of the cartridge making it hard to remove at a later date<br />
# Cracking of the potting ceramic resulting in poorer thermal response or in extreme circumstances, short circuit.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
[[File:sensor insert.png|thumb|left|Sensor inserted]]<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== Heater Cartridge ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertCartridge.jpg|thumb|left|Heater inserted into block.]]<br />
If you have one, grab a multimeter and check the resistance of your heater cartridge against the table below. Expect your value to deviate a little from these, a difference of around plus or minus 5W is fine, however if yours is significantly off or you are concerned you have the wrong cartridge please get in touch. <br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
| P\V|| 12v || 24v<br />
|-<br />
| 40w (Red Leads) || 3.6Ω || 14.4Ω<br />
|-<br />
| 25w (Blue Leads) || 5.76Ω || 23.04Ω<br />
|-<br />
| 30w (Blue Leads) || 4.8Ω || 19.2Ω<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Insert the Heater Cartridge with the leads exiting the block the same side as the thermistor. Centre the cartridge in it's hole in the block.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - HeaterClamp.jpg|thumb|left|HeaterBlock tightened around cartridge.]]<br />
Tighten the clamping portion of the heater block around the heater cartridge with the longer M3x10 screw. As in the photo below you should be able to see very slight deformation of the heater block clamp as it wraps around the cartridge for maximum thermal contact.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' The manufacturing process for heater cartridges often results in a degree of irregularity in both diameter and roundness. This is why we use a clamp, to accomodate this and ensure that in spite of the variation we get maximum thermal contact. If you do struggle to get a firm clamp on the cartridge try rotating it. A washer under the head of the M3 screw will enable you to get a much higher clampling load. <br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
===Thermal Compound===<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - AddCompound.jpg|thumb|left|Thermal compound spread over the threads of the heat-break.]]<br />
From mid-September 2015 all E3D-v6 HotEnds will be supplied with a small sachet of thermal compound. This improves heat-transfer from the heat-break threads to the heat-sink for slightly better thermal performance in marginal cases. The thermal compound should be spread evenly across the threads of the heat-break, only on the cold-side of the heat-break that screws into the heat-sink. The compound should not be used on any of the threads on the hot-side of the heat-break. The small sachet of compound contains more than is needed for one HotEnd, so don't feel like you need to use all of it.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - TightenHeatsink.jpg|thumb|left|Heatsink is screwed down onto top of heatbreak.]]<br />
Screw the HeatSink onto the HeatBreak by gripping the heatsink in one hand and the heater block in the other. It only needs to be tightened up hand-tight. Do not overtighten.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
=== PTFE Tubing (Where Applicable) ===<br />
==== 1.75mm Universal (with Bowden) ====<br />
<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - 175PTFE.jpg|thumb|left|PTFE Tubing being pushed down into HotEnd.]]<br />
<br />
Insert PTFE Tubing<br />
* These steps apply only to 1.75mm Direct, 1.75mm Bowden, and 3mm Bowden users. 3mm Direct does not use any PTFE tubing.<br />
* The PTFE tubing in the 1.75mm Direct configuration is not optional, you must use the tubing or the HotEnd will not function properly.<br />
* The tubing should be inserted from the top of the now assembled hotend and pushed as far down into the hotend as possible.<br />
* In the 1.75mm versions the PTFE tube actually runs through the Heat Sink and into the Heat Break, please ensure the tubing as seated as deep into the hotend as possible.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - 175PTFEInside.jpg|thumb|left|PTFE going down into Heat Break.]]<br />
In 1.75mm HotEnds the tubing passes right through the heatsink and into the heatbreak. Below is an illustration of how far down the PTFE tubing must extend. The photo below is not an assembly step, just an illustration of what should be happening inside your hotend.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
==== 3mm Bowden ====<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - 300PTFE.jpg|thumb|left|3mm PTFE Tubing Inserted.]]<br />
In the 3mm Bowden version the PTFE tubing pushes into the top of the heatsink and stops inside the heatsink.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
=== PTFE Recommendations ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - Half a Wades Block.jpg|thumb|left|An optimal tubing configuration in a wades extruder.]]<br />
* On bowden systems it is especially helpful to 'lock in' the PTFE tubing so that it cannot move around during retraction, this increases reliability, and gives much better retraction performance in general. To do this, push the PTFE firmly into the hotend, while pulling upwards on the black collet that retains the tubing. This locks the tubing into place so that it cannot move during retraction. It is important to do this at both ends of the tube.<br />
* To release the tubing from the heatsink simply press down on the black or grey collet in the top of heatsink while pulling on the tubing.<br />
* In 1.75mm Direct configurations thought should be given to running the PTFE right up as close to the hobbed bolt/drive gear as possible as this provides the easiest loading and the best performance with all filament types. However if you do not wish to run PTFE up to the hobbed bolt or drive gear you can simply cut the tubing off flush with the top of the hotend.<br />
* Shown below is a cutaway illustration of how an optimal PTFE configuration might look in a wades type extruder. The PTFE tubing extends right up to the hobbed bolt.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== Fan & Duct ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FanPrepared.jpg|thumb|left|Fan with screws inserted.]]<br />
* Figure out which way up you want the fan-duct to sit on the HotEnd given your particular mounting arrangements. We recommend mounting it with the over-hang at the top. If you have it hanging down however, please keep it clear of the heater block.<br />
* Remove the fan duct from the HeatSink.<br />
* Screw the screws into the fan such that the ends are just protruding from the other side of the fan. The sticker of the fan must face the heatsink to blow air over the heatsink.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FanScrew.jpg|thumb|left|Screwing fan to duct.]]<br />
Using the 4 Plastfast screws, attach the fan to the fan-duct such that the wires exit the fan in a convenient location - preferably such that it can be bundled in with the thermistor and heater cartridge cables.<br />
<br />
'''It can sometimes take quite a lot of torque to get the screws all the way in. Be sure to select a screwdriver that is a good fit or you risk striping the heads of the screws.''' <br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - ClipFan.jpg|thumb|left|Fan duct clipping to heatsink.]]<br />
Clip the fan duct to the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - CablesTied.jpg|thumb|left|Cable tie all wires together.]]<br />
* Cable-tie all cables together as additional strain relief.<br />
* It is important to ensure the wires of the fan and the red/black section of the thermistor cable are cable-tied and strain relieved in such a way that they cannot come into contact with the heater block at any time.<br />
* Fan should be wired directly to a 12v power supply and be constantly running. Do not connect to a "Fan" output of a controller board or similar, these are for fans that cool the printed object, not a hotend fan which needs to always be running.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== Configure Firmware (Easy!) ===<br />
<br />
In the following stages we are going to configure the HotEnd in firmware then go on to do the final hot-tighten of the HotEnd. This can be done either on or off your printer, however where practical we recommend doing it off your printer, then mounting.<br />
<br />
Connect the heater-cartridge and thermistor to your electronics board. Please refer to the documentation specific to your electronics for Pin-Outs and other technical information which may be relevant to the HotEnd installation.<br />
<br />
==== Marlin ====<br />
Reconfigure your firmware for the Semitec 104GT2 thermistor:<br />
In configuration.h: <br />
* #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5<br />
<br />
For safety it is strongly recommended to do the following:<br />
* Set the minimum temperature to detect bad wiring (''HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5'' in configuration.h)<br />
<br />
In newer versions of Marlin there are extra features for [https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/RC/Marlin/Configuration.h#L389 Thermal Runaway Protection] should your thermistor come loose. <br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== Repetier ====<br />
Use thermistor definition number 8:<br />
* #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 8<br />
Or select "ATC Semitec 104-GT2" if using the [http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v091/ Online Configuration Tool (v091)]<br />
<br />
For safety it is strongly recommended to do the following:<br />
* Set the ''Minimum defect temperature'' to ensure that the thermistor shorting out is caught by the firmware. <br />
<br />
New in [http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v091/ Online Configuration Tool (v092)] are the two options to also improve safety:<br />
* ''Decouple hold variance'' and ''Decouple min temp. rise'' to detect the thermistor coming loose. These must be set appropriately for your system to ensure that they work properly. <br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== Smoothieware ==== <br />
Use thermistor definition “Semitec”:<br />
* temperature_control.hotend.thermistor Semitec<br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== RepRapFirmware ====<br />
Edit the M305 P1 command in file sys/config.g on the SD card (you can do this in the web interface).<br />
<br />
- For firmware versions 1.16 and earlier, set the B parameter (beta value) to 4388. This value gives better accuracy at typical printing temperatures in the range 190 to 250C than the B value of 4267 quoted in the datasheet.<br />
<br />
- For firmware versions 1.17 and later, set the B parameter to 4719 and the C parameter to 7.08e-8.<br />
<br />
Restart the electronics to process the new config.g file.<br />
<br />
=== PID Tuning ===<br />
* Connect to the printer<br />
* Run M303 to autotune your PID - check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information. Please note that not all firmwares support autotune, and you may need to tune manually.<br />
* Set the HotEnd temperature to 285ºC. If you did not do a PID tune, then approach this temperature slowly, exceeding 295ºC will permanently damage the thermistor.<br />
<br />
=== Final Tightening ===<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - HotTighten.jpg|thumb|left|Doing the final tightening of the nozzle.]]<br />
* When the HotEnd is at tempereature, tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block with a spanner. This will tighten the nozzle against the HeatBreak and ensure that your HotEnd does not leak. You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle - this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner. The nozzle does not need to be torqued down incredibly tightly to form a good seal, when at lower tempreatures the aluminium will contract and hold the Nozzle and HeatBreak together.<br />
<br />
You are now ready to mount the HotEnd to your printer. Happy Printing!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Usage Guidance==<br />
<br />
In general the E3D-v6 hotend is highly tolerant of most printing conditions and is designed to accept the vast majority of filaments on the market. There are however some things to be aware of:<br />
<br />
* Filament must be within acceptable diameter tolerance. For 1.75mm this means 1.70mm - 1.80mm and for 3.00mm/2.85mm the filament must be between 2.80mm and 3.05mm<br />
* Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. E3D-v6 hotends need less retraction than most hotends. For direct extrusion systems you should use anywhere from 0.5mm-1.0mm, for bowden systems you might want to go up to 2mm. Retraction beyond 2mm is likely to cause issues.<br />
* The heatsink must be cooled! Heated chambers, fan ducts that restrict flow, and not having the fan running at 100% at all times are common causes of issues. The heatsink should be cool to the touch at all times. If your heatsink is warm to the touch then you have a cooling issue that must be addressed.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Documentation&diff=6863E3D-v6 Documentation2017-01-04T16:41:21Z<p>Adubaret: /* Identification */</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Assembly Guidelines ==<br />
=== Generic Assembly Guidelines ===<br />
See [[E3D-v6 Assembly]] for the assembly instructions. Please follow them to the letter!<br />
<br />
=== Printer Specific Guides ===<br />
There is £25 store credit available for any guide produced which conforms to E3D's [[Acceptable Guide Standard]].<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Airwolf HDx / HD2x]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Makibox ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Mendel 90 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Printrbot Simple Metal ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Prusa i3 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Renkforce RF1000]]<br />
* [http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/e3d-v6-information-installation-guides-and-review.3407/ E3D-v6 on Robo3D R1]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Rostock Max ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Solidoodle Press ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 1 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman k8200 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on Velleman K8400 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on XYZPrinting Davinci 1.0 ]]<br />
* [[ E3D-v6 on RepRap Fisher ]]<br />
* ....<br />
<br />
== What's in the box ==<br />
<br />
; Metal Parts<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)<br />
: 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak<br />
: 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heater Block<br />
<br />
; Electronics<br />
: 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan<br />
: 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR<br />
: 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)<br />
: 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins<br />
<br />
; Fixings<br />
: 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct<br />
: 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor<br />
: 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge<br />
: 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)<br />
<br />
; Bowden Versions also Include<br />
: 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.<br />
: 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.<br />
<br />
== Nozzles ==<br />
===Which nozzle to choose?===<br />
====Brass====<br />
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles, doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament. <br />
<br />
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.<br />
<br />
====Hardened Steel====<br />
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.<br />
<br />
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it's extremely hard to break one but if you do manage they crack rather than deforming. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.<br />
<br />
====Stainless Steel====<br />
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials.<br />
<br />
Unless you have a specific need for stainless steel nozzles you're probably better off going for brass or hardened steel. Stainless is much less conductive than brass, less wear resistant than hardened steel. <br />
<br />
=== Identification ===<br />
[[File:E3D-v6 Nozzle Series.jpg|center|300px|v6 Nozzle Series]]<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|-<br />
! # of Marks<br />
! Nozzle Size<br />
|-<br />
| 0 (Sorry..)<br />
| 0.15mm<br />
|-<br />
| 0<br />
| 0.25mm<br />
|-<br />
| 1<br />
| 0.30mm<br />
|-<br />
| 2<br />
| 0.35mm<br />
|-<br />
| 3<br />
| 0.40mm<br />
|-<br />
| 6 (Sorry..)<br />
| 0.50mm<br />
|-<br />
| 4<br />
| 0.60mm<br />
|-<br />
| 5<br />
| 0.80mm<br />
|}<br />
<br />
'''The new 0.15 nozzles have no markings for the first 1.75mm batch. The following nozzles will be supplied with 2 dots on one face.''' Specific guides to 0.15 nozzles can be found here: <br />
*[[V6 0.15mm High Precision Nozzles]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/015-Nozzles Blog post]<br />
<!--*[Order online]--><br />
<br />
=== Swapping ===<br />
To swap out a nozzle, you must follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself. <br />
* Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages. <br />
* Heat up your HotEnd to 285*C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor. <br />
* Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.<br />
* Insert the new nozzle.<br />
* Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile. <br />
* Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.<br />
* Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
== Engineering Drawings ==<br />
=== Current Drawings ===<br />
<br />
Please note that there has recently been a switch over to cartridge-style temperature sensors for ease of use and also enabling users to easily switch between thermistors, PT100s and thermocouples. For more information see our [[Temperature Sensor Documentation]].<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | HotEnd Version<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 1.75mm Universal<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Direct<br />
! style="font-weight: bold;" | E3D-v6 3mm Bowden<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Assembly<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-D-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-B-ASSM.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heatsink<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-175-SINK.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-D.pdf]]<br />
| style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-SINK-B.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Fan Duct<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340312 E3D-v6 Fan Duct - Thingiverse]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heat Break<br />
| [[:File:V6-175-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
| colspan="2" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-300-BREAK.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Heater Block<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-BLOCK-CARTRIDGE.pdf]]<br />
|-<br />
| style="font-weight: bold;" | Nozzle<br />
| colspan="3" style="text-align: center;" | [[:File:V6-NOZZLE-ALL.pdf]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Legacy Drawings ===<br />
[[:File:DRAWING-V6-BLOCK.png|E3D-v6 Blocks for Thermistors]]</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6850E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-12-13T17:00:53Z<p>Adubaret: /* Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/Ultimaker-Extrusion-Upgrade-Kit E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to this [https://youtu.be/aLLci32tHA4 '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the E3D Ultimaker Upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
The printed components used for this upgrade can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 '''Thingiverse'''].<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head. Save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip from the Bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the Bowden collet with your fingernails or the Bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from its bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part-cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead. Hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as shown then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead. Each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new Bowden tube into its collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and Bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), Bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the Bowden tube into the Bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original head. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : ''TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V''. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
'''You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly.''' To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. You can also use the Arduino IDE if you feel more confident in using this method.<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##Download the [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware] by clicking on the green '''Clone or download''' button, and then '''Download as Zip'''.<br />
##Once downloaded, extract the files named '''Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex''' and '''E3DV6 EEPROM default.gcode'''.<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up '''Cura 15 or earlier''' as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#Copy the .gcode file onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
'''If you want to further customise your firmware the following is a run-down of the exact changes made to the firmware to produce the hex file used above. If you have followed the above steps using the .hex file you do can ignore this section.'''<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve Wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature safety feature built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to its expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error as the air blown to cool the print can also end up cooling the heater block due to certain print geometry. Although the silicone sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
If you repeatedly encounter this issue, check the position of your part cooling fan ducts. They should be as low as possible without touching the bed when the nozzle does. Also, adding a siliconw sock can greatly reduce this error. Otherwise, the following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". <br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 0.1 //[E3D] original value 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (90000) //[E3D] original value(30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicone sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, different extrusion systems require different settings, so the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory and we really recommend the creation of new slicing configurations. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Reverting back to stock configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), install the appropriate default ultimaker firmware for your machine version and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.<br />
<br />
=FAQ=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''What can I print with my E3D upgrade?'''<br />
|Any 3D printing filaments you can find! Up to hotend temperatures of 400°C<br />
|-<br />
|'''What does E3D mean for my Ultimaker?'''<br />
|E3D's modular extrusion system has every sized nozzle you could ever want, in a variety of materials, so you can print super-abrasive filaments such as carbon fibre or Glow PLA, by simply swapping your nozzle for a hardened steel version. You'll also start off with an awesome selection of 6 brass nozzles to get you started on printing with big, fat layers, or very fine detail.<br />
|-<br />
|'''What's the little YELLOW printed part?'''<br />
|It's for pushing down the connector that holds your filament guide tubing at each end (Bowden tube release tool).<br />
|-<br />
|'''All the wires look the same?'''<br />
|They should all arrive labelled at the lower end of the cables. If any labels have come loose, just watch the video guide or read the wiki to see where everything goes.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My hotend doesn't hit the endstop on the X and/or Y axis? '''<br />
|Check the wiki, you have probably mounted the carriage backwards or on the wrong side. No modifications are required to your endstops when assembled correctly.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some under-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that you have uploaded the correct version of the firmware to your Ultimaker and that you have run the SD configuration file. Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Also, check your idler tension, we recommend making it tighter than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some over-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Check your idler tension. We recommend making it tighter rather than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction. Also, as above, check that the right filament diameter has been used, especially when using Simplify3D, where the default filament diameter is 1.75mm.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My first layer is not sticking to the bed.'''<br />
|Run the calibration procedure on the Ultimaker, and coat your bed with a light layer of UHU stick if you are using anything other than PLA. Also, run the bed hot to the material specifications.<br />
|-<br />
|'''How do I change my filament diameter in Cura 2.X?'''<br />
|You cannot, Ultimaker have "greyed it out". You can still see it in the settings, but unfortunately, in this latest version, you cannot change it. We recommend using and old version of Cura (15.X), which allows you to change the filament diameter in the advanced settings, or to use another slicer. We particularly recommend Simplify3D, which already has an Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended profile. If you still want to use Cura 2.X, you still can, make sure, as mentioned above, to select the right filament diameter as you insert your filament, by creating a custom profile.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does the filament change function still function on my upgraded Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended ?'''<br />
|Yes it does.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does my upgraded Ultimaker work with flexibles?'''<br />
|Yes it does. However the less soft flexibles are much easier to get running. We still recommend running the printing speed at 50% or lower of what you normally would.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Comparison Table=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''PRINTER AND PRINTING PROPERTIES'''<br />
|'''UM2'''<br />
|'''UM2+'''<br />
|'''E3D EDITION'''<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead'''<br />
|Fixed 0.4mm nozzle<br />
|Swappable nozzle<br />
|E3D v6 ecosystem<br />
|-<br />
|'''Build volume'''<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|218 x 215 x ~205mm (~305mm for Extended)<br />
|-<br />
|'''Filament Diameter'''<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead travel speed'''<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|-<br />
|'''X, Y, Z Resolution'''<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|-<br />
|'''Material Capability'''<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|Pretty much any filament apart from the softest flexibles<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Diameters'''<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.3<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.35<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.5<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Materials'''<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass, Hardened Steel, Stainless Steel<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle temperature'''<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|Up to 380C<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle heatup time'''<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|-<br />
|'''Extruder'''<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|E3D Titan Extruder<br />
|}</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6849E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-12-13T16:52:00Z<p>Adubaret: /* Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/Ultimaker-Extrusion-Upgrade-Kit E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to this [https://youtu.be/aLLci32tHA4 '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the E3D Ultimaker Upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
The printed components used for this upgrade can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 '''Thingiverse'''].<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head. Save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip from the Bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the Bowden collet with your fingernails or the Bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from its bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part-cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead. Hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as shown then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead. Each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new Bowden tube into its collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and Bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), Bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the Bowden tube into the Bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original head. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : ''TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V''. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
'''You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly.''' To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. You can also use the Arduino IDE if you feel more confident in using this method.<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##Download the [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware] by clicking on the green '''Clone or download''' button, and then '''Download as Zip'''<br />
##Once downloaded, extract the files named '''Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex''' and '''E3DV6 EEPROM default.gcode'''.<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up '''Cura 15 or earlier''' as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#Copy the .gcode file onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
'''If you want to further customise your firmware the following is a run-down of the exact changes made to the firmware to produce the hex file used above. If you have followed the above steps using the .hex file you do can ignore this section.'''<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve Wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature safety feature built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to its expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error as the air blown to cool the print can also end up cooling the heater block due to certain print geometry. Although the silicone sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
If you repeatedly encounter this issue, check the position of your part cooling fan ducts. They should be as low as possible without touching the bed when the nozzle does. Also, adding a siliconw sock can greatly reduce this error. Otherwise, the following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". <br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 0.1 //[E3D] original value 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (90000) //[E3D] original value(30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicone sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, different extrusion systems require different settings, so the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory and we really recommend the creation of new slicing configurations. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Reverting back to stock configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), install the appropriate default ultimaker firmware for your machine version and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.<br />
<br />
=FAQ=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''What can I print with my E3D upgrade?'''<br />
|Any 3D printing filaments you can find! Up to hotend temperatures of 400°C<br />
|-<br />
|'''What does E3D mean for my Ultimaker?'''<br />
|E3D's modular extrusion system has every sized nozzle you could ever want, in a variety of materials, so you can print super-abrasive filaments such as carbon fibre or Glow PLA, by simply swapping your nozzle for a hardened steel version. You'll also start off with an awesome selection of 6 brass nozzles to get you started on printing with big, fat layers, or very fine detail.<br />
|-<br />
|'''What's the little YELLOW printed part?'''<br />
|It's for pushing down the connector that holds your filament guide tubing at each end (Bowden tube release tool).<br />
|-<br />
|'''All the wires look the same?'''<br />
|They should all arrive labelled at the lower end of the cables. If any labels have come loose, just watch the video guide or read the wiki to see where everything goes.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My hotend doesn't hit the endstop on the X and/or Y axis? '''<br />
|Check the wiki, you have probably mounted the carriage backwards or on the wrong side. No modifications are required to your endstops when assembled correctly.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some under-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that you have uploaded the correct version of the firmware to your Ultimaker and that you have run the SD configuration file. Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Also, check your idler tension, we recommend making it tighter than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some over-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Check your idler tension. We recommend making it tighter rather than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction. Also, as above, check that the right filament diameter has been used, especially when using Simplify3D, where the default filament diameter is 1.75mm.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My first layer is not sticking to the bed.'''<br />
|Run the calibration procedure on the Ultimaker, and coat your bed with a light layer of UHU stick if you are using anything other than PLA. Also, run the bed hot to the material specifications.<br />
|-<br />
|'''How do I change my filament diameter in Cura 2.X?'''<br />
|You cannot, Ultimaker have "greyed it out". You can still see it in the settings, but unfortunately, in this latest version, you cannot change it. We recommend using and old version of Cura (15.X), which allows you to change the filament diameter in the advanced settings, or to use another slicer. We particularly recommend Simplify3D, which already has an Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended profile. If you still want to use Cura 2.X, you still can, make sure, as mentioned above, to select the right filament diameter as you insert your filament, by creating a custom profile.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does the filament change function still function on my upgraded Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended ?'''<br />
|Yes it does.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does my upgraded Ultimaker work with flexibles?'''<br />
|Yes it does. However the less soft flexibles are much easier to get running. We still recommend running the printing speed at 50% or lower of what you normally would.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Comparison Table=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''PRINTER AND PRINTING PROPERTIES'''<br />
|'''UM2'''<br />
|'''UM2+'''<br />
|'''E3D EDITION'''<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead'''<br />
|Fixed 0.4mm nozzle<br />
|Swappable nozzle<br />
|E3D v6 ecosystem<br />
|-<br />
|'''Build volume'''<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|218 x 215 x ~205mm (~305mm for Extended)<br />
|-<br />
|'''Filament Diameter'''<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead travel speed'''<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|-<br />
|'''X, Y, Z Resolution'''<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|-<br />
|'''Material Capability'''<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|Pretty much any filament apart from the softest flexibles<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Diameters'''<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.3<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.35<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.5<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Materials'''<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass, Hardened Steel, Stainless Steel<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle temperature'''<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|Up to 380C<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle heatup time'''<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|-<br />
|'''Extruder'''<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|E3D Titan Extruder<br />
|}</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6848E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-12-13T16:50:42Z<p>Adubaret: /* Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/Ultimaker-Extrusion-Upgrade-Kit E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to this [https://youtu.be/aLLci32tHA4 '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the E3D Ultimaker Upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
The printed components used for this upgrade can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 '''Thingiverse'''].<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head. Save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip from the Bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the Bowden collet with your fingernails or the Bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from its bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part-cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead. Hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as shown then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead. Each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new Bowden tube into its collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and Bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), Bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the Bowden tube into the Bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original head. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : ''TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V''. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
'''You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly.''' To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. You can also use the Arduino IDE if you feel more confident in using this method.<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##Download the [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware] by clicking on the green button '''Clone or download''', and then '''Download as Zip'''<br />
##Once downloaded, extract the files named '''Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex''' and '''E3DV6 EEPROM default.gcode'''.<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up '''Cura 15 or earlier''' as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#Copy the .gcode file onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
'''If you want to further customise your firmware the following is a run-down of the exact changes made to the firmware to produce the hex file used above. If you have followed the above steps using the .hex file you do can ignore this section.'''<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve Wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature safety feature built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to its expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error as the air blown to cool the print can also end up cooling the heater block due to certain print geometry. Although the silicone sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
If you repeatedly encounter this issue, check the position of your part cooling fan ducts. They should be as low as possible without touching the bed when the nozzle does. Also, adding a siliconw sock can greatly reduce this error. Otherwise, the following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". <br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 0.1 //[E3D] original value 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (90000) //[E3D] original value(30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicone sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, different extrusion systems require different settings, so the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory and we really recommend the creation of new slicing configurations. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Reverting back to stock configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), install the appropriate default ultimaker firmware for your machine version and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.<br />
<br />
=FAQ=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''What can I print with my E3D upgrade?'''<br />
|Any 3D printing filaments you can find! Up to hotend temperatures of 400°C<br />
|-<br />
|'''What does E3D mean for my Ultimaker?'''<br />
|E3D's modular extrusion system has every sized nozzle you could ever want, in a variety of materials, so you can print super-abrasive filaments such as carbon fibre or Glow PLA, by simply swapping your nozzle for a hardened steel version. You'll also start off with an awesome selection of 6 brass nozzles to get you started on printing with big, fat layers, or very fine detail.<br />
|-<br />
|'''What's the little YELLOW printed part?'''<br />
|It's for pushing down the connector that holds your filament guide tubing at each end (Bowden tube release tool).<br />
|-<br />
|'''All the wires look the same?'''<br />
|They should all arrive labelled at the lower end of the cables. If any labels have come loose, just watch the video guide or read the wiki to see where everything goes.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My hotend doesn't hit the endstop on the X and/or Y axis? '''<br />
|Check the wiki, you have probably mounted the carriage backwards or on the wrong side. No modifications are required to your endstops when assembled correctly.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some under-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that you have uploaded the correct version of the firmware to your Ultimaker and that you have run the SD configuration file. Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Also, check your idler tension, we recommend making it tighter than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some over-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Check your idler tension. We recommend making it tighter rather than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction. Also, as above, check that the right filament diameter has been used, especially when using Simplify3D, where the default filament diameter is 1.75mm.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My first layer is not sticking to the bed.'''<br />
|Run the calibration procedure on the Ultimaker, and coat your bed with a light layer of UHU stick if you are using anything other than PLA. Also, run the bed hot to the material specifications.<br />
|-<br />
|'''How do I change my filament diameter in Cura 2.X?'''<br />
|You cannot, Ultimaker have "greyed it out". You can still see it in the settings, but unfortunately, in this latest version, you cannot change it. We recommend using and old version of Cura (15.X), which allows you to change the filament diameter in the advanced settings, or to use another slicer. We particularly recommend Simplify3D, which already has an Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended profile. If you still want to use Cura 2.X, you still can, make sure, as mentioned above, to select the right filament diameter as you insert your filament, by creating a custom profile.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does the filament change function still function on my upgraded Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended ?'''<br />
|Yes it does.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does my upgraded Ultimaker work with flexibles?'''<br />
|Yes it does. However the less soft flexibles are much easier to get running. We still recommend running the printing speed at 50% or lower of what you normally would.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Comparison Table=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''PRINTER AND PRINTING PROPERTIES'''<br />
|'''UM2'''<br />
|'''UM2+'''<br />
|'''E3D EDITION'''<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead'''<br />
|Fixed 0.4mm nozzle<br />
|Swappable nozzle<br />
|E3D v6 ecosystem<br />
|-<br />
|'''Build volume'''<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|218 x 215 x ~205mm (~305mm for Extended)<br />
|-<br />
|'''Filament Diameter'''<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead travel speed'''<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|-<br />
|'''X, Y, Z Resolution'''<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|-<br />
|'''Material Capability'''<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|Pretty much any filament apart from the softest flexibles<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Diameters'''<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.3<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.35<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.5<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Materials'''<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass, Hardened Steel, Stainless Steel<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle temperature'''<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|Up to 380C<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle heatup time'''<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|-<br />
|'''Extruder'''<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|E3D Titan Extruder<br />
|}</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6832E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-12-02T16:50:31Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/Ultimaker-Extrusion-Upgrade-Kit E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to this [https://youtu.be/aLLci32tHA4 '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the E3D Ultimaker Upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
The printed components used for this upgrade can be found on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934309 '''Thingiverse'''].<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head. Save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip from the Bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the Bowden collet with your fingernails or the Bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from its bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part-cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead. Hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as shown then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead. Each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new Bowden tube into its collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and Bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the Bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), Bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the Bowden tube into the Bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original head. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : ''TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V''. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
'''You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly.''' To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. You can also use the Arduino IDE if you feel more confident in using this method.<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##[[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware]]<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up Cura as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#Download the EEPROM SD gcode [[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/E3DV6%20EEPROM%20default.gcode E3DV6 SD default EEPROM]], copy it onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
"If you want to further customise your firmware the following is a run-down of the exact changes made to the firmware to produce the hex file used above. If you have followed the above steps using the .hex file you do can ignore this section."<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve Wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature safety feature built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to its expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error as the air blown to cool the print can also end up cooling the heater block due to certain print geometry. Although the silicone sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
If you repeatedly encounter this issue, check the position of your part cooling fan ducts. They should be as low as possible without touching the bed when the nozzle does. Also, adding a siliconw sock can greatly reduce this error. Otherwise, the following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". <br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 0.1 //[E3D] original value 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (90000) //[E3D] original value(30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicone sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, different extrusion systems require different settings, so the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory and we really recommend the creation of new slicing configurations. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm if using 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Reverting back to stock configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), install the appropriate default ultimaker firmware for your machine version and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.<br />
<br />
=FAQ=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''What can I print with my E3D upgrade?'''<br />
|Any 3D printing filaments you can find! Up to hotend temperatures of 400°C<br />
|-<br />
|'''What does E3D mean for my Ultimaker?'''<br />
|E3D's modular extrusion system has every sized nozzle you could ever want, in a variety of materials, so you can print super-abrasive filaments such as carbon fibre or Glow PLA, by simply swapping your nozzle for a hardened steel version. You'll also start off with an awesome selection of 6 brass nozzles to get you started on printing with big, fat layers, or very fine detail.<br />
|-<br />
|'''What's the little YELLOW printed part?'''<br />
|It's for pushing down the connector that holds your filament guide tubing at each end (Bowden tube release tool).<br />
|-<br />
|'''All the wires look the same?'''<br />
|They should all arrive labelled at the lower end of the cables. If any labels have come loose, just watch the video guide or read the wiki to see where everything goes.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My hotend doesn't hit the endstop on the X and/or Y axis? '''<br />
|Check the wiki, you have probably mounted the carriage backwards or on the wrong side. No modifications are required to your endstops when assembled correctly.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some under-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that you have uploaded the correct version of the firmware to your Ultimaker and that you have run the SD configuration file. Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Also, check your idler tension, we recommend making it tighter than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction.<br />
|-<br />
|'''I am experiencing some over-extrusion.'''<br />
|Check that your filament flow is at or near 100%. Check your idler tension. We recommend making it tighter rather than looser as the Titan can easily cope with the extra grip, and is less likely to skip on retraction. Also, as above, check that the right filament diameter has been used, especially when using Simplify3D, where the default filament diameter is 1.75mm.<br />
|-<br />
|'''My first layer is not sticking to the bed.'''<br />
|Run the calibration procedure on the Ultimaker, and coat your bed with a light layer of UHU stick if you are using anything other than PLA. Also, run the bed hot to the material specifications.<br />
|-<br />
|'''How do I change my filament diameter in Cura 2.X?'''<br />
|You cannot, Ultimaker have "greyed it out". You can still see it in the settings, but unfortunately, in this latest version, you cannot change it. We recommend using and old version of Cura (15.X), which allows you to change the filament diameter in the advanced settings, or to use another slicer. We particularly recommend Simplify3D, which already has an Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended profile. If you still want to use Cura 2.X, you still can, make sure, as mentioned above, to select the right filament diameter as you insert your filament, by creating a custom profile.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does the filament change function still function on my upgraded Ultimaker 2/2+/2Extended/2+Extended ?'''<br />
|Yes it does.<br />
|-<br />
|'''Does my upgraded Ultimaker work with flexibles?'''<br />
|Yes it does. However the less soft flexibles are much easier to get running. We still recommend running the printing speed at 50% or lower of what you normally would.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Comparison Table=<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|'''PRINTER AND PRINTING PROPERTIES'''<br />
|'''UM2'''<br />
|'''UM2+'''<br />
|'''E3D EDITION'''<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead'''<br />
|Fixed 0.4mm nozzle<br />
|Swappable nozzle<br />
|E3D v6 ecosystem<br />
|-<br />
|'''Build volume'''<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|223 x 223 x 205mm<br />
|218 x 215 x ~205mm (~305mm for Extended)<br />
|-<br />
|'''Filament Diameter'''<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|2.85mm<br />
|-<br />
|'''Printhead travel speed'''<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|30 to 300mm/s<br />
|-<br />
|'''X, Y, Z Resolution'''<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|12.5, 12.5, 5 micron<br />
|-<br />
|'''Material Capability'''<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU95A* 0.25, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8mm<br />
|Pretty much any filament apart from the softest flexibles<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Diameters'''<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|0.25<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.3<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.35<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|0.4<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0.5<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|0.6<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|0.8<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle Materials'''<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass<br />
|Brass, Hardened Steel, Stainless Steel<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle temperature'''<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|180C to 260C<br />
|Up to 380C<br />
|-<br />
|'''Nozzle heatup time'''<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|~1 minute<br />
|-<br />
|'''Extruder'''<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|UM+ Standard Extruder<br />
|E3D Titan Extruder<br />
|}</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6804E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-11-10T14:01:36Z<p>Adubaret: /* Firmware Changes */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to the [https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head, save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clip from the bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the bowden collet with your fingernails or the bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from it's bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead, hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as show then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead, each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new bowden tube into it's collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the bowden tube into the bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original heoad. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
'''You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly.''' To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. You can also use the Arduino IDE if you feel more confident in using this method.<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##[[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware]]<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up Cura as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#Download the EEPROM SD gcode [[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/E3DV6%20EEPROM%20default.gcode E3DV6 SD default EEPROM]], copy it onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve Wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error as the air blown to cool the print can also end up cooling the heater block due to certain print geometry.. Although the silicon sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
If you repeatedly encounter this issue, check the position of your part cooling fan ducts. They should be as low as possible without touching the bed when the nozzle does. Also, adding a silicon sock can greatly reduce this error. Otherwise, the following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". <br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 0.1 //[E3D] original value 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (90000) //[E3D] original value(30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicon sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Ultimaker Default Configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6803E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-11-10T10:53:24Z<p>Adubaret: /* Firmware Changes */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to the [https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head, save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clip from the bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the bowden collet with your fingernails or the bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from it's bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead, hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as show then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead, each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new bowden tube into it's collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the bowden tube into the bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original heoad. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
'''You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly.''' To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. You can also use the Arduino IDE if you feel more confident in using this method.<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##[[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware]]<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up Cura as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#Download the EEPROM SD gcode [[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/E3DV6%20EEPROM%20default.gcode E3DV6 SD default EEPROM]], copy it onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve Wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error as the air blown to cool the print can also end up cooling the heater block due to certain print geometry.. Although the silicon sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
If you repeatedly encounter this issue, check the position of your part cooling fan ducts. They should be as low as possible without touching the bed when the nozzle does. Also, adding a silicon sock can greatly reduce this error. Otherwise, the following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". <br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicon sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Ultimaker Default Configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6&diff=6799LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan & V62016-11-09T14:39:12Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>This wiki will be amended and be made available in due time. Apologies for any inconveniences caused.<br />
<br />
<!--[[File:LulzBot Upgraded.jpg|right|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]--><br />
<br />
<!--This page provides a full guide to assembling and installing the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] upgrades into your [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-5 LulzBot TAZ 5] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
The steps are outlined as follows:<br />
*[[#Assembly|Assembly]] of Extruder, HotEnd and head ('''not required for pre-assembled version''')<br />
*[[#Installation|Installation]] into LulzBot TAZ 5<br />
*Software [[#Parameter Changes|Parameter Changes]]<br />
<br />
'''Make sure to read the [[#Filament Cooling Fan Voltage|Filament Cooling Fan Voltage]] section before switching on your upgraded printer'''--><br />
<br />
<!--=Upgrade Kit Contents=<br />
[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|400px|Complete Assembly.]]<br />
<br />
The kit will be available in two forms, the pre-assembled version and the kit version. --><br />
<br />
<!--==Pre-Assembled Version==<br />
*Fully assembled head with Titan Extruder, V6 HotEnd and filament cooling fan.<br />
*Allen Keys--><br />
<br />
<!--==Kit Version==<br />
*Titan Extruder Kit<br />
*Titan Thumb Wheel<br />
*Stepper Motor<br />
*V6 HotEnd Kit<br />
*TAZ 5 Adaptor<br />
*TAZ 5 Filament Cooling Fan and Nozzle<br />
*TAZ 5 Connector<br />
*Braided Cable Sleeve<br />
*Cable Ties<br />
*Allen Keys--><br />
<br />
<!--=Requirements=<br />
*LulzBot TAZ 5 - not currently compatible with other versions--><br />
<br />
<!--==Kit Version==<br />
*Pliers<br />
*7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Medium Sized Philips Head Screwdriver<br />
*Heat Source for Heat-shrink Tubing (Lighter, Heatgun, Soldering Iron etc.)--><br />
<br />
<!--=Assembly=<br />
These steps are not required for the pre-assembled version, for this please skip to the [[#Installation|Installation]] section.--><br />
<br />
<!--==V6 HotEnd==<br />
[[File:V6 Wiring.jpg|right|300px|V6 Extruder Finished Wiring.]]<br />
<br />
The first step is to assemble the V6 HotEnd. Please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly V6 Assembly Page] for the full instructions.<br />
<br />
*Note that we want the 'direct' rather than 'Bowden' configuration in the V6 assembly instructions.<br />
*You must decide here whether to configure the HotEnd for 1.75mm or 3mm filament. 3mm is the standard for the original LulzBot TAZ 5 head so you may wish to stick with this, however 1.75mm filament is becoming increasingly popular. <br />
*Ensure the wires exit in the direction shown when complete.<br />
*If installing a custom heating element, only use elements of 35W power or less due to the gauge of the LulzBot's internal wiring.<br />
<br />
Pictures (Refs?)<br />
<br style="clear:both" />--><br />
<br />
<!--==Filament Cooling Fan==<br />
Use the two supplied M3x15mm bolts and M3 nuts to attach the filament cooling fan and nozzle to the mounting point pictured. This is easiest done before mounting the stepper motor. <br />
[[File:Fan Mounting Holes.jpg|centre|300px|Location of Filament Cooling Fan Mounting Points.]]<br />
<br />
#Position the nozzle with the most curved side facing down as shown. <br />
[[File:Nozzle Direction.jpg|centre|300px|Correct Nozzle Orientation.]]<br />
#Position the fan with the label on the inside facing towards the nozzle and the wires in the closest position to the adaptor base. <br />
[[File:Fan Direction.jpg|centre|300px|Fan Mounting Direction]]<br />
#Place the two nuts into their seats located in the adaptor mounting point. <br />
[[File:Seated Nuts.jpg|centre|300px|Seated Nuts]]<br />
#Run the bolts through the appropriate two holes in the nozzle then through the fan holes. Align the bolts through the adaptor mounting holes and tighten into the seated nuts.<br />
[[File:Nozzle Mounted.jpg|centre|300px|Nozzle Mounted]]<br />
<br />
Repeat this process for the two M3x12mm bolts and M3 nuts in the remaining nozzle and fan holes, this time the nuts are seated directly in the fan.<br />
<br />
Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
<!--==Titan Extruder==<br />
[[File:Assembly.jpg|right|300px|Finished Assembly.]]<br />
<br />
Once the V6 HotEnd has been assembled and the filament cooling fan has been installed we can assemble the Titan Extruder. Please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly Titan Assembly Page] for full instructions though '''read this section first''' as there are some differences.<br />
<br />
*The adaptor plate is mounted between the stepper motor and Titan Extruder, this is referred to as a 'spacer' in the titan documentation. <br />
*The motor wires should ideally face upwards towards the top of the adaptor plate, if this is not possible then they can face outwards. <br />
*Mount the stepper motor gear before assembling, leave a gap of approximately 0.5mm between the gear and motor face and ensure that the grub screw side of the gear is closest to the motor. Exact alignment instructions will be given in the Titan documentation.<br />
*The idler tension screw is replaced by the supplied idler tension thumb screw. This is mounted with the knurled end extending from the back of the Titan Extruder. the second ring is mounted in the slot where the screw head would usually sit and the spring over the threaded section. The printed thumb wheel extension should be press fit onto the knurled outer ring.<br />
*The heater block should be rotated such that it is a far from the cooling nozzle as possible, with the shortest face facing towards the nozzle and the wires exiting from the rear.<br />
*The heatsink fan should be mounted opposite to the cooling nozzle.<br />
<br />
Pictures (Refs?)<br />
<br style="clear:both" />--><br />
<br />
<!--==Wiring==<br />
<br />
Begin by running all wires through the included braided cable sleeve.<br />
[[File:Wiring Sleeve.jpg|centre|600px|Wiring Sleeve.]]<br />
<br />
The wires for the upgraded head come pre crimped but must be inserted into the included 16-socket connector housing once the head has been fully assembled. The correct pin placement is shown below as seen from the back of the connector when plugged in.<br />
[[File:LulzBot-Adaptor-Wiring.png|centre|794px|LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Connector Wiring Diagram.]]<br />
<br />
The crimped pins must be inserted into the connector housing as pictured. Ensure the latch pins face towards the outside of the housing when inserting. The pins can be pulled through fully with a pair of pliers - be very gentle. Once installed, ensure the pins are secured properly by placing light pressure on them with a hard object.<br />
[[File:Pin Orientation.jpg|centre|900px|Pin Orientation.]]<br />
<br />
The wires should be run underneath the motor and secured to the cable tie point shown below.<br />
[[File:Cable Tie Point.jpg|centre|600px|Cable Tie Point.]]--><br />
<br />
<!--= Installation =<br />
With the full head assembly we can begin installation into the TAZ 5.<br />
<br />
<!--==Filament Cooling Fan Voltage==<br />
The V6 HotEnd heatsink fan is much larger than the stock TAZ 5 fan, it also runs on a higher voltage. As such this connector '''must be moved''' on the control board otherwise the fan will not spin, potentially casing hard-to-fix filament jams. The steps for doing this are as follows:<br />
<br />
#Ensure the printer is off and we recommend that the power supply is unplugged from the printer as an additional precaution. Take care not to touch or short-circuit any pins as capacitors may still be charged even when off.<br />
#Remove the four bolts shown below from the TAZ 5 electronics enclosure, the enclosure cover should then detach from the main body. Place this carefully on the table ensuring the fan wire is not under tension.<br />
[[File:Box Screws.jpg|centre|600px|Box Screws.]] <br />
#Locate the connector below and remove it.<br />
[[File:Wire 1.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 1.]]<br />
#Reconnect the connector to the pins shown blow in the top left corner of the board ensuring the positive (red) wire is on top.<br />
[[File:Wire 2.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 2.]]<br />
#Replace the enclosure cover ensuring the fan is free from any loose wires. Re-secure the four bolts.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
<!--==Main Body==<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove the old TAZ 5 head. This simply requires the connector to be disconnected then the single hex bolt at the top of the head to be removed. Once this is done the head should slide out of its bracket.<br />
<br />
Install the new head into the TAZ 5 in a similar manner. This is best done by placing the right-hand corner into the mounting bracket then pressing the other side down to secure the head, this may require some force. Once mounted the securing screw at the top of the head assembly can be replaced.<br />
<br />
Reconnect the connector ensuring that it is in the correct orientation and that all pins slide in correctly.<br />
<br />
Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
<!--=Parameter Changes=<br />
Some parameters must be modified in Marlin to account for the change in hardware.--><br />
<br />
<!--==Extruder Steps/mm==<br />
The extruder has a different gear ratio than the stock TAZ 5 head. The extruder speed must thus be changed in the TAZ 5 control panel.<br />
<br />
First press the selector wheel button, then scroll to '''Configuration''' then '''Advanced Settings''' and finally down to '''Esteps/mm'''. Change this value to '''456.0'''. Note this can be off by ±0.2mm as the wheel will not always allow for precise selection.<br />
414.5 measured<br />
Once changed, scroll back up to '''Configuration''' to return to the previous menu, then scroll and select '''Store memory''' to save your settings.<br />
<br />
In your slicer (eg. Cura) you must ensure that 'Extruder Steps per mm' is set to zero. This will prevent any override of your Esteps/mm setting. This should be zero by default but it may be worth checking.--><br />
<br />
<!--===Calibration of Extruder Steps/mm===<br />
It is recommended to confirm your steps/mm by following the [[Titan Assembly#Firmware Calibration| Titan Firmware Calibration]] section on the Titan page.--><br />
<br />
<!--==Nozzle Diameter==<br />
By default the upgrade kit will ship with a 0.4mm nozzle. If this is different from what you currently use, change this in your slicing settings.--><br />
<br />
<!--==Filament Cooling Fan Speed==<br />
<br />
The TAZ 5 filament cooling fan stock settings do not always give good results. It is recommended to increase the filament cooling fan speed to 80-100% in your slicer if you notice any sagging of parts or excessive warping during printing.--><br />
<br />
<!--==Z-Axis Re-Calibration==<br />
Whilst the upgrade has been designed to leave the head in approximately the same place as the standard Taz head - you will need to follow the Z-Calibration steps outlined in the Taz documentation.--></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=LulzBot_TAZ5_-_Titan_%26_V6&diff=6798LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan & V62016-11-09T14:36:24Z<p>Adubaret: Change of project plan. Commenting out of main wiki content, will be amended and made available in due time.</p>
<hr />
<div>'''WE WILL NOT OFFER THIS KIT AS A WHOLE, HOWEVER, WE WILL PROVIDE YOU WITH A LIST OF REQUIRED HARDWARE AND LINKS TO PRINTED PARTS STL. THIS IS AN ONGOING PROJECT, PLEASE BEAR WITH US.'''<br />
<br />
This wiki will be amended and be made available in due time. Apologies for any inconveniences caused.<br />
<br />
<!--[[File:LulzBot Upgraded.jpg|right|thumb|LulzBot TAZ 5 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]--><br />
<br />
<!--This page provides a full guide to assembling and installing the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] upgrades into your [https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-5 LulzBot TAZ 5] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
The steps are outlined as follows:<br />
*[[#Assembly|Assembly]] of Extruder, HotEnd and head ('''not required for pre-assembled version''')<br />
*[[#Installation|Installation]] into LulzBot TAZ 5<br />
*Software [[#Parameter Changes|Parameter Changes]]<br />
<br />
'''Make sure to read the [[#Filament Cooling Fan Voltage|Filament Cooling Fan Voltage]] section before switching on your upgraded printer'''--><br />
<br />
<!--=Upgrade Kit Contents=<br />
[[File:Complete Assembly.jpg|right|400px|Complete Assembly.]]<br />
<br />
The kit will be available in two forms, the pre-assembled version and the kit version. --><br />
<br />
<!--==Pre-Assembled Version==<br />
*Fully assembled head with Titan Extruder, V6 HotEnd and filament cooling fan.<br />
*Allen Keys--><br />
<br />
<!--==Kit Version==<br />
*Titan Extruder Kit<br />
*Titan Thumb Wheel<br />
*Stepper Motor<br />
*V6 HotEnd Kit<br />
*TAZ 5 Adaptor<br />
*TAZ 5 Filament Cooling Fan and Nozzle<br />
*TAZ 5 Connector<br />
*Braided Cable Sleeve<br />
*Cable Ties<br />
*Allen Keys--><br />
<br />
<!--=Requirements=<br />
*LulzBot TAZ 5 - not currently compatible with other versions--><br />
<br />
<!--==Kit Version==<br />
*Pliers<br />
*7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Medium Sized Philips Head Screwdriver<br />
*Heat Source for Heat-shrink Tubing (Lighter, Heatgun, Soldering Iron etc.)--><br />
<br />
<!--=Assembly=<br />
These steps are not required for the pre-assembled version, for this please skip to the [[#Installation|Installation]] section.--><br />
<br />
<!--==V6 HotEnd==<br />
[[File:V6 Wiring.jpg|right|300px|V6 Extruder Finished Wiring.]]<br />
<br />
The first step is to assemble the V6 HotEnd. Please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly V6 Assembly Page] for the full instructions.<br />
<br />
*Note that we want the 'direct' rather than 'Bowden' configuration in the V6 assembly instructions.<br />
*You must decide here whether to configure the HotEnd for 1.75mm or 3mm filament. 3mm is the standard for the original LulzBot TAZ 5 head so you may wish to stick with this, however 1.75mm filament is becoming increasingly popular. <br />
*Ensure the wires exit in the direction shown when complete.<br />
*If installing a custom heating element, only use elements of 35W power or less due to the gauge of the LulzBot's internal wiring.<br />
<br />
Pictures (Refs?)<br />
<br style="clear:both" />--><br />
<br />
<!--==Filament Cooling Fan==<br />
Use the two supplied M3x15mm bolts and M3 nuts to attach the filament cooling fan and nozzle to the mounting point pictured. This is easiest done before mounting the stepper motor. <br />
[[File:Fan Mounting Holes.jpg|centre|300px|Location of Filament Cooling Fan Mounting Points.]]<br />
<br />
#Position the nozzle with the most curved side facing down as shown. <br />
[[File:Nozzle Direction.jpg|centre|300px|Correct Nozzle Orientation.]]<br />
#Position the fan with the label on the inside facing towards the nozzle and the wires in the closest position to the adaptor base. <br />
[[File:Fan Direction.jpg|centre|300px|Fan Mounting Direction]]<br />
#Place the two nuts into their seats located in the adaptor mounting point. <br />
[[File:Seated Nuts.jpg|centre|300px|Seated Nuts]]<br />
#Run the bolts through the appropriate two holes in the nozzle then through the fan holes. Align the bolts through the adaptor mounting holes and tighten into the seated nuts.<br />
[[File:Nozzle Mounted.jpg|centre|300px|Nozzle Mounted]]<br />
<br />
Repeat this process for the two M3x12mm bolts and M3 nuts in the remaining nozzle and fan holes, this time the nuts are seated directly in the fan.<br />
<br />
Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
<!--==Titan Extruder==<br />
[[File:Assembly.jpg|right|300px|Finished Assembly.]]<br />
<br />
Once the V6 HotEnd has been assembled and the filament cooling fan has been installed we can assemble the Titan Extruder. Please refer to the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly Titan Assembly Page] for full instructions though '''read this section first''' as there are some differences.<br />
<br />
*The adaptor plate is mounted between the stepper motor and Titan Extruder, this is referred to as a 'spacer' in the titan documentation. <br />
*The motor wires should ideally face upwards towards the top of the adaptor plate, if this is not possible then they can face outwards. <br />
*Mount the stepper motor gear before assembling, leave a gap of approximately 0.5mm between the gear and motor face and ensure that the grub screw side of the gear is closest to the motor. Exact alignment instructions will be given in the Titan documentation.<br />
*The idler tension screw is replaced by the supplied idler tension thumb screw. This is mounted with the knurled end extending from the back of the Titan Extruder. the second ring is mounted in the slot where the screw head would usually sit and the spring over the threaded section. The printed thumb wheel extension should be press fit onto the knurled outer ring.<br />
*The heater block should be rotated such that it is a far from the cooling nozzle as possible, with the shortest face facing towards the nozzle and the wires exiting from the rear.<br />
*The heatsink fan should be mounted opposite to the cooling nozzle.<br />
<br />
Pictures (Refs?)<br />
<br style="clear:both" />--><br />
<br />
<!--==Wiring==<br />
<br />
Begin by running all wires through the included braided cable sleeve.<br />
[[File:Wiring Sleeve.jpg|centre|600px|Wiring Sleeve.]]<br />
<br />
The wires for the upgraded head come pre crimped but must be inserted into the included 16-socket connector housing once the head has been fully assembled. The correct pin placement is shown below as seen from the back of the connector when plugged in.<br />
[[File:LulzBot-Adaptor-Wiring.png|centre|794px|LulzBot TAZ 5 Upgrade Connector Wiring Diagram.]]<br />
<br />
The crimped pins must be inserted into the connector housing as pictured. Ensure the latch pins face towards the outside of the housing when inserting. The pins can be pulled through fully with a pair of pliers - be very gentle. Once installed, ensure the pins are secured properly by placing light pressure on them with a hard object.<br />
[[File:Pin Orientation.jpg|centre|900px|Pin Orientation.]]<br />
<br />
The wires should be run underneath the motor and secured to the cable tie point shown below.<br />
[[File:Cable Tie Point.jpg|centre|600px|Cable Tie Point.]]--><br />
<br />
<!--= Installation =<br />
With the full head assembly we can begin installation into the TAZ 5.<br />
<br />
<!--==Filament Cooling Fan Voltage==<br />
The V6 HotEnd heatsink fan is much larger than the stock TAZ 5 fan, it also runs on a higher voltage. As such this connector '''must be moved''' on the control board otherwise the fan will not spin, potentially casing hard-to-fix filament jams. The steps for doing this are as follows:<br />
<br />
#Ensure the printer is off and we recommend that the power supply is unplugged from the printer as an additional precaution. Take care not to touch or short-circuit any pins as capacitors may still be charged even when off.<br />
#Remove the four bolts shown below from the TAZ 5 electronics enclosure, the enclosure cover should then detach from the main body. Place this carefully on the table ensuring the fan wire is not under tension.<br />
[[File:Box Screws.jpg|centre|600px|Box Screws.]] <br />
#Locate the connector below and remove it.<br />
[[File:Wire 1.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 1.]]<br />
#Reconnect the connector to the pins shown blow in the top left corner of the board ensuring the positive (red) wire is on top.<br />
[[File:Wire 2.jpg|centre|600px|Wire 2.]]<br />
#Replace the enclosure cover ensuring the fan is free from any loose wires. Re-secure the four bolts.<br />
<br />
<!--Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
<!--==Main Body==<br />
<br />
The first step is to remove the old TAZ 5 head. This simply requires the connector to be disconnected then the single hex bolt at the top of the head to be removed. Once this is done the head should slide out of its bracket.<br />
<br />
Install the new head into the TAZ 5 in a similar manner. This is best done by placing the right-hand corner into the mounting bracket then pressing the other side down to secure the head, this may require some force. Once mounted the securing screw at the top of the head assembly can be replaced.<br />
<br />
Reconnect the connector ensuring that it is in the correct orientation and that all pins slide in correctly.<br />
<br />
Pictures (Refs?)--><br />
<br />
<!--=Parameter Changes=<br />
Some parameters must be modified in Marlin to account for the change in hardware.--><br />
<br />
<!--==Extruder Steps/mm==<br />
The extruder has a different gear ratio than the stock TAZ 5 head. The extruder speed must thus be changed in the TAZ 5 control panel.<br />
<br />
First press the selector wheel button, then scroll to '''Configuration''' then '''Advanced Settings''' and finally down to '''Esteps/mm'''. Change this value to '''456.0'''. Note this can be off by ±0.2mm as the wheel will not always allow for precise selection.<br />
414.5 measured<br />
Once changed, scroll back up to '''Configuration''' to return to the previous menu, then scroll and select '''Store memory''' to save your settings.<br />
<br />
In your slicer (eg. Cura) you must ensure that 'Extruder Steps per mm' is set to zero. This will prevent any override of your Esteps/mm setting. This should be zero by default but it may be worth checking.--><br />
<br />
<!--===Calibration of Extruder Steps/mm===<br />
It is recommended to confirm your steps/mm by following the [[Titan Assembly#Firmware Calibration| Titan Firmware Calibration]] section on the Titan page.--><br />
<br />
<!--==Nozzle Diameter==<br />
By default the upgrade kit will ship with a 0.4mm nozzle. If this is different from what you currently use, change this in your slicing settings.--><br />
<br />
<!--==Filament Cooling Fan Speed==<br />
<br />
The TAZ 5 filament cooling fan stock settings do not always give good results. It is recommended to increase the filament cooling fan speed to 80-100% in your slicer if you notice any sagging of parts or excessive warping during printing.--><br />
<br />
<!--==Z-Axis Re-Calibration==<br />
Whilst the upgrade has been designed to leave the head in approximately the same place as the standard Taz head - you will need to follow the Z-Calibration steps outlined in the Taz documentation.--></div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6791E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-11-08T12:01:27Z<p>Adubaret: /* Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to the [https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head, save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clip from the bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the bowden collet with your fingernails or the bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from it's bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead, hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as show then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead, each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new bowden tube into it's collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the bowden tube into the bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original heoad. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
'''You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly.''' To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. You can also use the Arduino IDE if you feel more confident in using this method.<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##[[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware]]<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up Cura as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#Download the EEPROM SD gcode [[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/E3DV6%20EEPROM%20default.gcode E3DV6 SD default EEPROM]], copy it onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve Wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations, and the block having a higher thermal mass than the standard Ultimaker block also increases the sensitivity of this feature. Although the silicon sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
The following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". I have tried many combinations of these values with little effect.<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicon sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Ultimaker Default Configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.</div>Adubarethttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6790E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-11-08T11:52:10Z<p>Adubaret: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]]<br />
This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer.<br />
<br />
This upgrade kit is compatible with:<br />
*Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended<br />
*Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+<br />
<br />
This article is a companion to the [https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process.<br />
<br />
'''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''.<br />
<br />
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.<br />
<br />
=Requirements=<br />
===Upgrade Kit Contents===<br />
[[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]]<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit<br />
**3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor<br />
**PTFE Bowden Tubing<br />
**NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100<br />
**Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve<br />
**V6 Nozzle Fun Pack<br />
**V6 Silicone Sock<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com Printed Parts]<br />
**Four Layer Adaptor Body<br />
**2x Fan Duct<br />
**Bowden Depressor Tool<br />
*Fixings<br />
**12 x M3 Nut<br />
**16 x M3 Washer<br />
*[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament<br />
*Allen Keys<br />
<br />
===Tools Required===<br />
*Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench<br />
*Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver<br />
*Allen Keys (Included)<br />
<br />
=Preparation=<br />
#Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.<br />
#Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C).<br />
#Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Disconnect the power supply.<br />
<br />
=Installation=<br />
==Printhead==<br />
===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly===<br />
#Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.<br />
#Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head, save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clip from the bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Press down on the bowden collet with your fingernails or the bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully remove the rail from it's bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--><br />
#Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Printhead Assembly===<br />
#Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.<br />
#Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the cables for the two part cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead, hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as show then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead, each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the '''cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top.''' The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the new bowden tube into it's collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
==Extruder==<br />
===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly===<br />
#Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===E3D Titan Installation===<br />
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page].<br />
<!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--><br />
<br />
#Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Slide the bowden tube into the bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Accessing the Control Board===<br />
#Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.<br />
#Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.<br />
#Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
<br />
===Wiring===<br />
#Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original heoad. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.<br />
#Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
#Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]]<br />
<br />
===Finishing Up===<br />
#Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
#Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]]<br />
This completes the physical part of the installation.<br />
<br />
=Firmware, Nozzles and Printing Settings=<br />
You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly. To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here].<br />
<br />
#Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.<br />
##[[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Ultimaker2_E3DV6.hex E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware]]<br />
<!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--><br />
#Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.<br />
#Load up Cura as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. <br />
#Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]]<br />
#When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.<br />
#Download the EEPROM SD gcode [[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/E3DV6%20EEPROM%20default.gcode E3DV6 SD default EEPROM]], copy it onto an SD card and run it as you would any other print. The default values for the EEPROM settings will be modified to comply with the E3DV6.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Changes==<br />
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. <br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,837} //837 to be changed to 418.5 for if a 200 steps/mm motor is used<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<!--I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.--><br />
<br />
<br />
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75<br />
<br />
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations. Although the silicon sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
The following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". I have tried many combinations of these values with little effect.<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!<br />
<br />
==Changing nozzles==<br />
Your Ultimaker upgrade kit also includes a range of nozzles. These can all be swapped with the 0.4mm nozzle which we provide already installed on with the kit. However, this nozzle has been '''hot tightened''', as should every nozzle used on your upgraded Ultimaker. This is to ensure perfect contact between the nozzle and the heatbreak. To swap nozzle, follow these [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation#Swapping simple steps]:<br />
<br />
#Remove the blue silicon sock from your '''cold''' hotend<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-280°C<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently unscrew the nozzle. '''TAKE GREAT CARE AS YOUR NOZZLE IS VERY HOT! DO NOT TOUCH WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!'''<br />
#Once you have untightened the nozzle, let the hotend cool down<br />
#When the nozzle is cold, finish unscrewing the nozzle, and replace it with the nozzle of your choice and tighten lightly<br />
#Heatup your nozzle to around 270-285°C again<br />
#Hold the block in place with a spanner of the correct size and, using the 7mm spanner provided in the nozzle tin, gently tighten the nozzle.<br />
#let the nozzle cool down and replace the sock<br />
<br />
'''Remember to change your slicer settings accordingly'''<br />
<br />
==E3D Edge Filament==<br />
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:<br />
<br />
Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.<br />
<br />
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.<br />
<br />
==Recommended Cura Settings==<br />
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):<br />
<br />
'''Quality'''<br />
*Layer Height: 0.25mm<br />
*Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm<br />
*Line Width: 0.48<br />
'''Shell'''<br />
*Wall thickness: 1.2<br />
*Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75<br />
*Horizontal Expansion: 0<br />
'''Infill'''<br />
*Infill Density: 25%<br />
*Infil Pattern: Grid<br />
*Disable Infill Before Walls<br />
'''Material'''<br />
*Enable Retraction<br />
*Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm<br />
'''Speed'''<br />
*Print Speed: 50mm/s<br />
*Infill Speed: 40mm/s<br />
*Wall Speed: 25mm/s<br />
*Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s<br />
*Travel Speed: 120mm/s<br />
*Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s<br />
*Number of Slower Layers: 2<br />
'''Travel'''<br />
*Disable Combing<br />
'''Cooling'''<br />
*Enable Cooling Fans<br />
<br />
==Recommended Material Settings==<br />
On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using.<br />
Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.<br />
<br />
'''E3D's Edge'''<br />
*Temperature: 230-240°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 80°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
*Temperature: 210-220°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 60°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
*Temperature: 240-250°C<br />
*Heated buildplate: 100-110°C<br />
*Diameter: 2.85mm or 1.75mm<br />
*Fan: 100%<br />
*Flow %: 100%<br />
*Retraction Distance: 2.00mm for 3mm filament, 4.5mm for 1.75mm filament, 25mm/s<br />
<br />
=Ultimaker Default Configuration=<br />
<br />
If for any reason you are unsatisfied with the result of this upgrade, or wish to return your Ultimaker to its default configuration, simply follow the steps in this wiki in reverse order (once you have turned off your machine), and perform a factory reset upon powering it up again. This kit will not in any way stop you from reversing the process. Make sure that, if you intend to carry out this reverse modification, you keep all the components which you have removed from your Ultimaker, and store them in a safe place.</div>Adubaret