https://wiki.e3d-online.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Dan&feedformat=atomE3D-Online - User contributions [en-gb]2024-03-29T07:07:28ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.27.4https://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Motors_Data_Sheet&diff=7057Motors Data Sheet2017-05-19T14:56:13Z<p>Dan: Created page with "File:E-MOTOR-NEMA17-ALL_PUBLIC.pdf"</p>
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<div>[[File:E-MOTOR-NEMA17-ALL_PUBLIC.pdf]]</div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:E-MOTOR-NEMA17-ALL_PUBLIC.pdf&diff=7056File:E-MOTOR-NEMA17-ALL PUBLIC.pdf2017-05-19T14:56:03Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=7055Main Page2017-05-19T14:50:22Z<p>Dan: /* E3D Mechanical Component Drawings */</p>
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<div>== HotEnd Documentation ==<br />
* [[E3D-v6 Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D-Lite6 Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D-v6 (Volcano) Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D-v5 Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D-v4 Documentation]]<br />
* [[Kraken Documentation]]<br />
* [[Cyclops & Chimera Documentation]]<br />
* [[Lulzbot Documentation]]<br />
* [[E3D Nozzles]]<br />
<br />
== Titan Documentation ==<br />
* [[Titan Assembly]]<br />
* [[Titan Prusai3]]<br />
* [[Titan_Aero|Titan Aero]]<br />
<br />
== Printer Conversion Kits ==<br />
* [[LulzBot TAZ5 - Titan %26 V6]]<br />
* [[E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2|Ultimaker 2 - V6 & Titan Optionally]]<br />
<br />
== E3D Electronics Documentation ==<br />
* [[E3D PT100 Amplifier Documentation]]<br />
* [[Temperature Sensor Documentation]]<br />
<br />
== E3D Mechanical Component Drawings ==<br />
* [[CAD]]<br />
* [[E3D HobbGoblin Drawings]]<br />
* [[Borosilicate Glass Beds]]<br />
* [[Silicone Rubber Heater Mats]]<br />
* [[Flexible Motor Couplings]]<br />
* [[DC Fans]]<br />
* [[Groove Mounting Plates]]<br />
* [[Motors Data Sheet]]<br />
<br />
== Filament ==<br />
* [[EDGE]]<br />
* [[Scaffold]]<br />
<br />
== BigBox ==<br />
* [[BigBox Build Manual]]<br />
<br />
== Support ==<br />
* [[FAQs]]<br />
* [http://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php Forum]<br />
* [[E3D-v6 Troubleshooting]]<br />
* [[Guidance on non 12v or 24v systems]]</div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Lite6_Assembly_-_Lite6PTFEInside.jpg&diff=6445File:Lite6 Assembly - Lite6PTFEInside.jpg2016-06-28T12:13:56Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=Titan_Assembly&diff=6345Titan Assembly2016-06-21T15:09:53Z<p>Dan: /* Firmware Calibration */</p>
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<div><br />
= What's in the Box =<br />
<br />
[[File:TITAN-IN-THE-BOX.jpg|center|800px]]<br />
<br />
== Plastic Parts ==<br />
* Body<br />
* Lid<br />
* Idler Lever<br />
* Filament Guide <br />
** Black - for 1.75mm filament<br />
** White - for "3mm" filament<br />
<br />
== Fixings Kit ==<br />
* 3 Hex Wrenches <br />
** 1.5mm<br />
** 2mm<br />
** 2.5mm<br />
* Mounting Screws for 2mm mounting plate.<br />
** 3 x M3 x 30<br />
** 1 x M3 x 8<br />
* Mounting Screws for 7mm mounting plate. (Not compatible with motor on product page, not shown in above photo.) <br />
** 3 x M3 x 35<br />
** 1 x M3 x 12<br />
* Lid Screw<br />
** 1 x M3 x 25<br />
* Idler Spring, Screw & Nut<br />
* Pinion Gear Grub Screw<br />
<br />
<br />
The reason there are two sets of mounting screws is to ensure that Titan is compatible with the widest possible range of through-hole mounting situations. There are further notes on spacings in the Assembly section.<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
* Steel Pinion Gear<br />
* Acetal Gear with Filament Drive Shaft<br />
<br />
== Bearings ==<br />
* Already pressed into Body, Lid and Idler<br />
<br />
== Other ==<br />
* PTFE for Idler<br />
<br />
= Disassembly =<br />
If you are taking a functional printer out of service to install Titan, make sure you '''read all the docs first'''. You may need to print a mounting bracket or spacer for your printer. <br />
<br />
= Assembly Steps =<br />
Herewith the assembly steps for Titan. Titan is easy to assemble, but there are a few little tricks, so make sure you read it all!<br />
<br />
'''Note on spacings between body and extruder body:'''<br />
# A spacer is always required.<br />
# The spacer must be at least 2mm thick. This ensures that the pinion gear clears the face of the motor. <br />
# If your mounting circumstances mean the extruder will be held less than 2mm off the face of the motor, you need to print a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1472259 customisable spacer].<br />
# If your mounting circumstances requires more than 2mm then you may need to use the longer mounting screws. <br />
## Note that the motor offered on the extruder product page does not support spacing of more than 3mm since the shaft is not long enough to fully support the idler. <br />
# If you run into problems with the screws being too long, '''we have put a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1472259 customisable spacer] on Thingiverse for you.''' Here is a list of through-hole mounting thicknesses and associated screw lengths & spacer thicknesses you will need.<br />
** 2mm - Short Screws - No Spacer<br />
** 3mm - Long Screws - 4mm Spacer<br />
** 4mm - Long Screws - 3mm Spacer<br />
** 5mm - Long Screws - 2mm Spacer<br />
** 6mm - Long Screws - 1mm Spacer<br />
** 7mm - Long Screws - No Spacer<br />
<br />
# The STL of the [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1477900 E3D Titan Bracket] sold in our store can be found on Thingiverse. Drawings and SCAD to follow soon.<br />
<br />
== Extruder Body ==<br />
[[File:TITAN-AFFIX-BODY.jpg|center|400px]]<br />
* Use M3 x 8 or M3 x 12 screw to hold body in place.<br />
<br />
== Gears ==<br />
[[File:TITAN-FLUSH-GEARS.png|center|Titan gears must be flush]]<br />
[[File:TITAN-FLUSH-GEARS-PHOTO.jpg|center|400px|Titan gears must be flush]]<br />
* Screw the M3 Grub Screw loosely into the Steel Pinion Gear. <br />
<br />
* Slide the Steel Gear onto the motor shaft, oriented such that the grub screw is closest to the motor. <br />
** To set the height of the steel gear, drop the Acetal Gear with Filament Drive Shaft into the bearing, then line up the top surfaces (facing away from the motor) of the gears so that they are flush. <br />
** To ensure that positioning is accurate, squeeze the assembly together to ensure that the everything is sitting where it will be once it’s all tightened up. <br />
<br />
* Tighten the Grub Screw to secure the Steel gear in place. If your motor shaft has a flat section do tighten the grub screw down onto the flat for optimal grip.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
== Heatsink / Bowden Adaptor & Filament Guide ==<br />
<br />
'''1.75mm Direct'''<br />
<br />
[[File:TITAN-PTFE.png|center|16mm PTFE|400px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:TITAN-PTFE-PHOTO.jpg|center|16mm PTFE|400px]]<br />
<br />
We are going to cut the PTFE to length so that it fully lines the filament path all the way from the top of the filament guide down into the heat-break.<br />
<br />
#Screw the heatsink and heat-break together. '''Note: the little black bowden collet must not be installed.'''<br />
#Insert the PTFE from the top, so that it is up against the heat-break. <br />
#Measure 16mm from the top of the heatsink and cut the PTFE. This will ensure an optimal filament parth. Note; <br />
##If the PTFE is too long, when you screw the heat-break in place it may crush the PTFE, constricting the filament path. <br />
##If the PTFE is too short, there will be a gap between the top of the PTFE and the filament guide which may cause slight problems with loading. <br />
##It is better that the PTFE is slightly too short. <br />
#Place the black filament guide onto the PTFE and slide the whole assembly into the groove-mount hole in the extruder body. The HotEnd should be held firmly in place.<br />
<br />
'''3mm Direct'''<br />
<br />
There is no PTFE in the system for 3mm Direct. Simply place the heatsink into the groove-mount hole, followed by the white filament guide. Ensure the top of the filament guide is flush with the extruder body.<br />
<br />
'''1.75mm and 3mm Bowden'''<br />
#Slide the Bowden Adaptor into the groove-mount. It may feel a little loose. <br />
#Slide the filament guide (black for 1.75mm, white for 3mm) into the groove-mount. The Bowden Adaptor should now be held firmly in place. Ensure the top of the filament guide is flush with the extruder body. <br />
#Insert the PTFE into the Bowden Adaptor until you feel it hit up hard against the filament guide. Note that in 1.75 - the PTFE will go all the way up into the guide, stopping short only a few mm before the drive gear. <br />
#Pull the collet in the Embedded Bowden Coupling whilst pushing the PTFE into the coupling, this will ensure that the tube is locked in place and that there is minimal backlash in the system.<br />
<br />
== Idler Lever ==<br />
[[File:TITAN-IDLER.png|center|Install Idler|500px]]<br />
<br />
#Screw the M4 Nut all the way onto the M4 Screw. <br />
#Locate the spring around the threaded part of the screw.<br />
#Drop this assembly into the nut-channel in the extruder body. <br />
#<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Warning: Do not compress the spring without the lid on, and always ensure the idler tension is set to minimum before removing the lid.</span> Failure to do so can cause the spring / screw to pop out and fly to the other side of the room. In the best-case this will be a waste your time spent looking for it, worst-case it may hit someone in the face. <br />
#Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft, ensuring that the spring locates onto the bump on the back of the idler.<br />
<br />
[[File:TITAN-IDLER-FITTING.jpg|center|400px|Sliding Idler onto Shaft]]<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Note: it is normal that the pin sticks out slightly on one side of the lever.</span><br />
<br />
== Lid ==<br />
<br />
[[File:TITAN-LID.png|center|800px]]<br />
<br />
#Put the lid on the assembly and install the M3 x 30 (or M3 x 35) screws in the 2 left positions. <br />
#The top-right screw which goes through the filament drive shaft uses the same screw as before, however with this one, you must be careful not to over-tighten. Tighten only enough to hold the assembly together.<br />
##If supplied, use the shake-proof washers under the head of the top-right screw to minimise risk of loosening during service. <br />
##All the force applied to this screw is transmitted through the miniature bearings for the filament drive shaft. Over-tightening will cause unnecessary load on the motor and in extreme cases may result in the bearings failing prematurely. <br />
#The remaining screw is the M3 x 25 in the bottom right position. This screws into the brass insert in the back of the extruder body and holds the HotEnd in place.<br />
<br />
== Gear Alignment Check ==<br />
<br />
Now that you have completed the assembly, check that the large Acetal gear moves smoothly and that it fully meshes with the steel gear. <br />
<br />
* If the gear is hard to move, loosen off the corresponding M3 screw in the lid until it moves freely. <br />
** If the gear is still hard to move - check the position of the steel pinion gear, it may be too far forward.<br />
* If the gear exhibits “backlash” (improper meshing), loosen all screws on the lid and rotate the body such that the gears fully mesh. Re-tighten up the screws on the lid.<br />
<br />
== PTFE in Idler==<br />
<br />
[[File:TITAN-IDLER-PTFE.jpg|center|400px|Idler requires PTFE for 1.75mm]]<br />
<br />
When the Extruder is ready to use, ensure that you put a piece of 4mm OD, 2mm ID PTFE tubing into the hole in the top of the idler. This will provide guidance for the filament. Without this, the filament risks coming off the hobbed area of the extruder. This is not required for 3mm filament.<br />
<br />
= Usage =<br />
== Firmware Calibration ==<br />
<br />
Because Titan uses a known gearing ratio and a consistently machined drive gear, we can offer a fairly accurate steps / mm set-point.<br />
<br />
Steps per Unit (Extruder) = Motor Steps * Micro-stepping * Gear Ratio / (Hobb Diameter * Pi)<br />
<br />
* Standard motor steps / rev = 200 <br />
* Standard micro-stepping = 16x <br />
* Gear Ratio = 3<br />
* Hobb Diameter (Effective) = 7.3<br />
<br />
200 * 16 * 3 / (6.7 * 3.142) = 417<br />
<br />
To test your value, mark the filament 120mm from the extruder then extrude 100mm slowly. If you do not measure 20mm after extrusion has finished, you may need to tweak this value.<br />
<br />
== Loading and Unloading ==<br />
<br />
To load filament, loosen off the idler a little, slide the filament down the PTFE in the idler and turn the gear by hand until it is loaded. To unload do the reverse. <br />
<br />
== HotEnd Removal == <br />
<br />
To remove the HotEnd, relieve tension in the idler then remove the front 4 screws and pull the HotEnd out forwards.<br />
<br />
= Downloads =<br />
<br />
* [http://files.e3d-online.com/Titan/Titan_Assembly_Supplementary.pdf Supplementary Assembly Drawings / Notes]<br />
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1472259 NEMA17 Face-Plate Spacer]<br />
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1477900 E3D Titan Bracket]<br />
<br />
= FAQ =<br />
<br />
=== Weight ===<br />
<br />
60g without motor<br />
=== Wear on Idler === <br />
<br />
The idlers are made from Delrin 500CL which is an acetal homopolymer with impregnated chemical lubricant. This resin is designed specifically for low wear and friction against metals. This idler runs plain against a ground steel motor shaft which is very smooth causing absolutely minimal wear. If you have a D-shaped shaft there is a small possibility that a bur is present on one of the edges - this could cause issues in the long-term and so if found should be removed. <br />
<br />
= Troubleshooting =<br />
=="Clicking" sound during retractions==<br />
<br />
If you can hear the gears clicking against each other during printing (normally on retraction) this is most likely caused by backlash (the gears being able to move very slightly, independently of one and other). You can check for this by trying to move the large gear by hand, it will probably move freely over a very small angle.<br />
<br />
Backlash is caused by poor gear alignment, and the fix is simple, loosen the 3 screws that hold the body to the motor and rotate the extruder such that the gears are fully meshed. You know they are fully meshed when the large gear is no longer able to move freely. Re-tighten the screws on the lid and the problem should be fixed. <br />
<br />
If you are unable to get the gears to fully mesh by removing the screws on the lid, it may be necessary to loosen the screw behind the groove-mount and adjust the body position. <br />
<br />
==Filament slipping off hobbed area of Filament Drive Shaft==<br />
<br />
* Ensure the PTFE is installed in the Idler.<br />
* Ensure that the steel pinion gear is not too far back towards the motor, allowing the idler to slide back and forth along the motor shaft. <br />
<br />
==Drive gear hard to turn when lid tightened==<br />
<br />
Be sure that the steel pinion gear is not above the height of the Acetal gear. If it is, the idler will pinch it when the lid is fitted.<br />
<br />
==HotEnd is wobbly==<br />
<br />
This is normally because the PTFE guide has not been inserted. Please refer to the relevant section of the documentation and ensure that this part is fitted. If you are still having trouble, please contact support.</div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Assembly&diff=6340E3D-v6 Assembly2016-06-17T08:33:28Z<p>Dan: /* What's in the box */</p>
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<div>Assembly of the E3D-v6 HotEnd should be an easy process that takes no more than half an hour. Please follow the instructions on this page carefully to ensure that you assemble the HotEnd correctly.<br />
<br />
<br />
== What's in the box ==<br />
<br />
; Metal Parts<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)<br />
: 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heater Block<br />
: 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)<br />
<br />
; Electronics<br />
: 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor with<br />
: 100mm x Silicone Fibreglass Sleeving<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30W Heater Cartridge<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan<br />
: 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR<br />
: 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)<br />
: 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins<br />
<br />
; Fixings<br />
: 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct<br />
: 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor<br />
: 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge<br />
: 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)<br />
<br />
; Bowden Versions also Include<br />
: 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.<br />
: 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== What you need ==<br />
<br />
* 16mm Spanner<br />
* 7mm Spanner<br />
* Pozi-Drive Screwdriver<br />
* M2.5 Hex Wrench - we supply these in the kit when possible<br />
<br />
== Warnings - Please Read! ==<br />
<br />
# The HeatBreak is fragile. If you are using a large spanner, hitting it with a hammer, etc. It will break.<br />
# The thermistor is small and fragile. Be gentle with the legs. The bead is made of glass - don't crush! It is also very small, so don't breathe.<br />
# You are dealing with high temperatures - the HotEnd gets hot, and may be off your printer when you do the initial tightening. If you touch it, you will get burned!<br />
# You are dealing with high currents, make sure you double check all your wiring and your power supply rating. It is not recommended to work on anything whilst it is plugged in. Bad wiring with improper current ratings can cause fire.<br />
# Be sure you have ordered (and received!) the correct voltage heater and fan to match your 3D printer. If the heater cartridge specification is not lasered onto the cartridge, you can easily check with a multimeter, this is described in the [[#Heater_Cartridge]] section. Connecting 12v parts to 24v power can result in overheating, component damage or fire.<br />
# The E3D-v6 is a high performance HotEnd, capable of reaching a wide range of temperatures. The temperatures that ignite some plastics are within the normal printing temperatures of other plastics. If you only plan on printing ABS, PLA, and/or Nylon, it is recommended that you set your heater cartridge “MAX_PWM” to 150 in your firmware, in order to limit the E3D’s heater to a range suitable for these plastics. If you are not printing materials requiring ~300C, there is no need for “MAX_PWM" to be set over 150. This variable can usually be found in the configuration.h file of your printers firmware. You can always change it to a higher value when you want to experiment with higher temperatures, it is much more difficult to extinguish a housefire.<br />
# Like all 3D printers, printers fitted with a high temperature all metal hotend can be a fire hazard. You are using experimental technology to heat and melt plastic, in a machine that you may have built or modified yourself, that likely does not have safety certification or significant failsafes. Fire/Smoke alarms, supervision of your printer while printing, and expertise should not be considered optional.<br />
# Your HotEnd and your printer is your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.<br />
<br />
== Assembly Steps ==<br />
=== HotSide ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertNozzle.jpg|thumb|left|Nozzle screwed into block, and unscrewed a 1/2 turn.]]<br />
Screw Nozzle into the Heater Block into the end closest to the thermistor holes.<br />
Unscrew the Nozzle a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertBreak.jpg|thumb|left|Break screwed into block level with top of block.]]<br />
Screw the Heat Break into the other side of the Heater Block so it is butts up against the nozzle.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FirstTighten.jpg|thumb|left|A first, slight tightening of the nozzle against the break.]]<br />
Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner. '''Do not over-tighten, we are going to tighten it up later when the heater block is hot.'''<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
=== Thermistor ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - CutSleeving.jpg|thumb|left|Cutting the sleeving to length. Sleeving on thermistor.]]<br />
Cut the blue glass-fiber sleeving into 2 x 35mm lengths and slide them onto the legs of the thermistor. Optional: Crimp a ferrule on each leg over the sleeving (as shown in the photograph below) to ensure the sleeving stays in place. Ensure you position this ferrule such that it will not touch the heater block when assembled (you will need to place it some way from the thermistor head if you are assembling a volcano heater block).<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - BendThermistor.jpg|thumb|left|Thermistor bent into initial shape.]]<br />
Holding the thermistor between your finger and thumb, make a 90º bend in the legs about 5mm from the tip of the bead.<br />
Thermistor bent into initial shape.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - WasherSides.jpg|thumb|left|Smooth and rough side of the washer.]]<br />
Bear in mind that due to the manufacturing process, washers often have slightly sharper edges on one of their sides. When you put the washer on the screw - make sure the smooth side is up against the sleeving to eliminate any risk of damaging the insulation. <br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FastenThermistor.jpg|thumb|left|Thermistor being clamped into place.]]<br />
Place the of the thermistor into the hole, and fasten in place using the smaller M3x4 screw and washer. Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FastenThermistorDone.jpg|thumb|left|Thermistor clamped into place.]]<br />
It should look like this when clamped.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - CheckThermistor.jpg|thumb|left|The sleeving runs into the thermistor hole insulating it right down to the glass bead.]]<br />
Visually check that the blue sleeving is isulating the legs of the thermistor right down to the bead. If the legs make electrical contact with the block or eachother your temperature readings will be incorrect and you risk overheating.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
=== Heater Cartridge ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertCartridge.jpg|thumb|left|Heater inserted into block.]]<br />
If you have one, grab a multimeter and check the resistance of your heater cartridge against the table below. Expect your value to deviate a little from these, a difference of around plus or minus 5W is fine, however if yours is significantly off or you are concerned you have the wrong cartridge please get in touch. <br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
| P\V|| 12v || 24v<br />
|-<br />
| 40w (Red Leads) || 3.6Ω || 14.4Ω<br />
|-<br />
| 25w (Blue Leads) || 5.76Ω || 23.04Ω<br />
|-<br />
| 30w (Blue Leads) || 4.8Ω || 19.2Ω<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Insert the Heater Cartridge with the leads exiting the block the same side as the thermistor. Centre the cartridge in it's hole in the block.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - HeaterClamp.jpg|thumb|left|HeaterBlock tightened around cartridge.]]<br />
Tighten the clamping portion of the heater block around the heater cartridge with the longer M3x10 screw. As in the photo below you should be able to see very slight deformation of the heater block clamp as it wraps around the cartridge for maximum thermal contact.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== Thermistor Wire ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - StrippedThermistorWire.jpg|thumb|left|Stripped wire with heatshrink.]]<br />
Strip the ends of the red and black thermistor cable and put a length of heatshrink over each wire.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - ThermistorBent.jpg|thumb|left|Thermistor wires formed into hooks ready to crimp.]]<br />
Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg, if you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the hotend it makes it easier to push them over the wires later.<br />
Form the thermistor wire and bare portion of the thermistor legs into hooks, and hook the legs together.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FerruleOver.jpg|thumb|left|Ferrule over bare portion of wires.]]<br />
Push the ferrule over the bare portions of the wires ready to crimp into place.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FerruleCrushed.jpg|thumb|left|Crushing the ferrule.]]<br />
Crimp the ferrules by firmly crushing them with a pair of pliers. You can use a fancy ferrule crimping tool if you have one, but it's not needed.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - Shrink.jpg|thumb|left|Heatshrink being shrunk.]]<br />
Slide the heatshrink down over the now crushed ferrules and shrink into place with a heat source such as a soldering iron, hot air gun or even a flame.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
===Thermal Compound===<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - AddCompound.jpg|thumb|left|Thermal compound spread over the threads of the heat-break.]]<br />
From mid-September 2015 all E3D-v6 HotEnds will be supplied with a small sachet of thermal compound. This improves heat-transfer from the heat-break threads to the heat-sink for slightly better thermal performance in marginal cases. The thermal compound should be spread evenly across the threads of the heat-break, only on the cold-side of the heat-break that screws into the heat-sink. The compound should not be used on any of the threads on the hot-side of the heat-break. The small sachet of compound contains more than is needed for one HotEnd, so don't feel like you need to use all of it.<br />
<br />
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[[File:v6 Assembly - TightenHeatsink.jpg|thumb|left|Heatsink is screwed down onto top of heatbreak.]]<br />
Screw the HeatSink onto the HeatBreak by gripping the heatsink in one hand and the heater block in the other. It only needs to be tightened up hand-tight. Do not overtighten.<br />
<br />
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=== PTFE Tubing (Where Applicable) ===<br />
==== 1.75mm Universal (with Bowden) ====<br />
<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - 175PTFE.jpg|thumb|left|PTFE Tubing being pushed down into HotEnd.]]<br />
<br />
Insert PTFE Tubing<br />
* These steps apply only to 1.75mm Direct, 1.75mm Bowden, and 3mm Bowden users. 3mm Direct does not use any PTFE tubing.<br />
* The PTFE tubing in the 1.75mm Direct configuration is not optional, you must use the tubing or the HotEnd will not function properly.<br />
* The tubing should be inserted from the top of the now assembled hotend and pushed as far down into the hotend as possible.<br />
* In the 1.75mm versions the PTFE tube actually runs through the Heat Sink and into the Heat Break, please ensure the tubing as seated as deep into the hotend as possible.<br />
<br />
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[[File:v6 Assembly - 175PTFEInside.jpg|thumb|left|PTFE going down into Heat Break.]]<br />
In 1.75mm HotEnds the tubing passes right through the heatsink and into the heatbreak. Below is an illustration of how far down the PTFE tubing must extend. The photo below is not an assembly step, just an illustration of what should be happening inside your hotend.<br />
<br />
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==== 3mm Bowden ====<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - 300PTFE.jpg|thumb|left|3mm PTFE Tubing Inserted.]]<br />
In the 3mm Bowden version the PTFE tubing pushes into the top of the heatsink and stops inside the heatsink.<br />
<br />
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=== PTFE Recommendations ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - Half a Wades Block.jpg|thumb|left|An optimal tubing configuration in a wades extruder.]]<br />
* On bowden systems it is especially helpful to 'lock in' the PTFE tubing so that it cannot move around during retraction, this increases reliability, and gives much better retraction performance in general. To do this, push the PTFE firmly into the hotend, while pulling upwards on the black collet that retains the tubing. This locks the tubing into place so that it cannot move during retraction. It is important to do this at both ends of the tube.<br />
* To release the tubing from the heatsink simply press down on the black or grey collet in the top of heatsink while pulling on the tubing.<br />
* In 1.75mm Direct configurations thought should be given to running the PTFE right up as close to the hobbed bolt/drive gear as possible as this provides the easiest loading and the best performance with all filament types. However if you do not wish to run PTFE up to the hobbed bolt or drive gear you can simply cut the tubing off flush with the top of the hotend.<br />
* Shown below is a cutaway illustration of how an optimal PTFE configuration might look in a wades type extruder. The PTFE tubing extends right up to the hobbed bolt.<br />
<br />
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<br />
=== Fan & Duct ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FanPrepared.jpg|thumb|left|Fan with screws inserted.]]<br />
* Figure out which way up you want the fan-duct to sit on the HotEnd given your particular mounting arrangements. We recommend mounting it with the over-hang at the top. If you have it hanging down however, please keep it clear of the heater block.<br />
* Remove the fan duct from the HeatSink.<br />
* Screw the screws into the fan such that the ends are just protruding from the other side of the fan. The sticker of the fan must face the heatsink to blow air over the heatsink.<br />
<br />
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[[File:v6 Assembly - FanScrew.jpg|thumb|left|Screwing fan to duct.]]<br />
Using the 4 Plastfast screws, attach the fan to the fan-duct such that the wires exit the fan in a convenient location - preferably such that it can be bundled in with the thermistor and heater cartridge cables.<br />
<br />
'''It can sometimes take quite a lot of torque to get the screws all the way in. Be sure to select a screwdriver that is a good fit or you risk striping the heads of the screws.''' <br />
<br />
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[[File:v6 Assembly - ClipFan.jpg|thumb|left|Fan duct clipping to heatsink.]]<br />
Clip the fan duct to the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
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[[File:v6 Assembly - CablesTied.jpg|thumb|left|Cable tie all wires together.]]<br />
* Cable-tie all cables together as additional strain relief.<br />
* It is important to ensure the wires of the fan and the red/black section of the thermistor cable are cable-tied and strain relieved in such a way that they cannot come into contact with the heater block at any time.<br />
* Fan should be wired directly to a 12v power supply and be constantly running. Do not connect to a "Fan" output of a controller board or similar, these are for fans that cool the printed object, not a hotend fan which needs to always be running.<br />
<br />
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<br />
=== Configure Firmware (Easy!) ===<br />
<br />
In the following stages we are going to configure the HotEnd in firmware then go on to do the final hot-tighten of the HotEnd. This can be done either on or off your printer, however where practical we recommend doing it off your printer, then mounting.<br />
<br />
Connect the heater-cartridge and thermistor to your electronics board. Please refer to the documentation specific to your electronics for Pin-Outs and other technical information which may be relevant to the HotEnd installation.<br />
<br />
==== Marlin ====<br />
Reconfigure your firmware for the Semitec 104GT2 thermistor:<br />
In configuration.h: <br />
* #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5<br />
<br />
For safety it is strongly recommended to do the following:<br />
* Set the minimum temperature to detect bad wiring (''HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5'' in configuration.h)<br />
<br />
In newer versions of Marlin there are extra features for [https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/Development/Marlin/Configuration.h#L227 Thermal Runaway Protection] should your thermistor come loose. <br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== Repetier ====<br />
Use thermistor definition number 8:<br />
* #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 8<br />
Or select "ATC Semitec 104-GT2" if using the [http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v091/ Online Configuration Tool (v091)]<br />
<br />
For safety it is strongly recommended to do the following:<br />
* Set the ''Minimum defect temperature'' to ensure that the thermistor shorting out is caught by the firmware. <br />
<br />
New in [http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v091/ Online Configuration Tool (v092)] are the two options to also improve safety:<br />
* ''Decouple hold variance'' and ''Decouple min temp. rise'' to detect the thermistor coming loose. These must be set appropriately for your system to ensure that they work properly. <br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== Smoothieware ==== <br />
Use thermistor definition “Semitec”:<br />
* temperature_control.hotend.thermistor Semitec<br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== RepRapFirmware ====<br />
Use the Beta value 4267K.<br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
=== PID Tuning ===<br />
* Connect to the printer<br />
* Run M303 to autotune your PID - check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information. Please note that not all firmwares support autotune, and you may need to tune manually.<br />
* Set the HotEnd temperature to 285ºC. If you did not do a PID tune, then approach this temperature slowly, exceeding 295ºC will permanently damage the thermistor.<br />
<br />
=== Final Tightening ===<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - HotTighten.jpg|thumb|left|Doing the final tightening of the nozzle.]]<br />
* When the HotEnd is at tempereature, tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block with a spanner. This will tighten the nozzle against the HeatBreak and ensure that your HotEnd does not leak. You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle - this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner. The nozzle does not need to be torqued down incredibly tightly to form a good seal, when at lower tempreatures the aluminium will contract and hold the Nozzle and HeatBreak together.<br />
<br />
You are now ready to mount the HotEnd to your printer. Happy Printing!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Usage Guidance==<br />
<br />
In general the E3D-v6 hotend is highly tolerant of most printing conditions and is designed to accept the vast majority of filaments on the market. There are however some things to be aware of:<br />
<br />
* Filament must be within acceptable diameter tolerance. For 1.75mm this means 1.70mm - 1.80mm and for 3.00mm/2.85mm the filament must be between 2.80mm and 3.05mm<br />
* Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. E3D-v6 hotends need less retraction than most hotends. For direct extrusion systems you should use anywhere from 0.5mm-1.0mm, for bowden systems you might want to go up to 2mm. Retraction beyond 2mm is likely to cause issues.<br />
* The heatsink must be cooled! Heated chambers, fan ducts that restrict flow, and not having the fan running at 100% at all times are common causes of issues. The heatsink should be cool to the touch at all times. If your heatsink is warm to the touch then you have a cooling issue that must be addressed.</div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=FAQs&diff=6274FAQs2016-06-13T13:31:21Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div>=General Questions=<br />
==What is the difference between a Bowden and Direct Hotend?==<br />
This article does a great job of explaining the key concepts of what a Bowden extruder is and why you may or may not want one compared to a Direct extruder:<br />
http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2015/11/11/bowden-or-direct-a-primer-on-extruder-styles<br />
<br />
In terms of E3D-v6 hotends specifically: <br />
* All 1.75mm E3D-v6 HotEnds are the same physical parts. However the bowden kit is supplied with a longer length of tubing, and an additional threaded bowden coupler for connecting the tubing to your extruder drive system.<br />
* 3mm Direct and 3mm Bowden E3D-v6 HotEnds use different HeatSinks. The 3mm Bowden HeatSink has an integrated bowden coupling, and the Bowden kit is supplied with tubing and a threaded coupler. The Direct kit has a HeatSink with no integrated coupling, and is supplied without any tubing.<br />
<br />
==What are the differences between 12v and 24v HotEnds?==<br />
<br />
Almost all printers use a power supply that powers things like the motors, electronics, hotend etc. These tend to output either 12v or 24v from which all components in the system run. This is unrelated to localised mains voltages (110V/240V AC).<br />
<br />
You need to order a kit which is the same voltage as the internal voltage of your printer. You can usually find this information online, or written on the power supply of the printer.<br />
<br />
E3D HotEnd full kits are supplied with cartridge heaters and cooling fans. These two components must be matched to the supply voltage of your 3D printer system for safe and reliable operation. If your printer has a 24v power supply output then you need the 24v HotEnd kit, likewise with 12v power supplies and 12v kits.<br />
<br />
Thermistors are not voltage specific components, and so it does not matter what voltage your system uses, you should be fine with the single thermistor option.<br />
<br />
There is no performance difference between 24v and 12v kits.<br />
<br />
=E3D-v6 Specific Questions=<br />
<br />
=== Max Temp ===<br />
The E3D-v6 as sold is limited in temperature by the thermistor to 295*C but can go higher (tested up to 420*C) with a thermocouple upgrade. <br />
<br />
=Multi-Extrusion Product Questions=<br />
<br />
=Filament Questions=<br />
<br />
=Other Components Questions=</div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Assembly&diff=6215E3D-v6 Assembly2016-06-02T15:13:22Z<p>Dan: /* Heater Cartridge */</p>
<hr />
<div>Assembly of the E3D-v6 HotEnd should be an easy process that takes no more than half an hour. Please follow the instructions on this page carefully to ensure that you assemble the HotEnd correctly.<br />
<br />
<br />
== What's in the box ==<br />
<br />
; Metal Parts<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)<br />
: 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak<br />
: 1 x Aluminium Heater Block<br />
: 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)<br />
<br />
; Electronics<br />
: 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor with<br />
: 100mm x Silicone Fibreglass Sleeving<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge<br />
: 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan<br />
: 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR<br />
: 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)<br />
: 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins<br />
<br />
; Fixings<br />
: 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct<br />
: 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor<br />
: 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge<br />
: 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)<br />
<br />
; Bowden Versions also Include<br />
: 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.<br />
: 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== What you need ==<br />
<br />
* 16mm Spanner<br />
* 7mm Spanner<br />
* Pozi-Drive Screwdriver<br />
* M2.5 Hex Wrench - we supply these in the kit when possible<br />
<br />
== Warnings - Please Read! ==<br />
<br />
# The HeatBreak is fragile. If you are using a large spanner, hitting it with a hammer, etc. It will break.<br />
# The thermistor is small and fragile. Be gentle with the legs. The bead is made of glass - don't crush! It is also very small, so don't breathe.<br />
# You are dealing with high temperatures - the HotEnd gets hot, and may be off your printer when you do the initial tightening. If you touch it, you will get burned!<br />
# You are dealing with high currents, make sure you double check all your wiring and your power supply rating. It is not recommended to work on anything whilst it is plugged in. Bad wiring with improper current ratings can cause fire.<br />
# Be sure you have ordered (and received!) the correct voltage heater and fan to match your 3D printer. If the heater cartridge specification is not lasered onto the cartridge, you can easily check with a multimeter, this is described in the [[#Heater_Cartridge]] section. Connecting 12v parts to 24v power can result in overheating, component damage or fire.<br />
# The E3D-v6 is a high performance HotEnd, capable of reaching a wide range of temperatures. The temperatures that ignite some plastics are within the normal printing temperatures of other plastics. If you only plan on printing ABS, PLA, and/or Nylon, it is recommended that you set your heater cartridge “MAX_PWM” to 150 in your firmware, in order to limit the E3D’s heater to a range suitable for these plastics. If you are not printing materials requiring ~300C, there is no need for “MAX_PWM" to be set over 150. This variable can usually be found in the configuration.h file of your printers firmware. You can always change it to a higher value when you want to experiment with higher temperatures, it is much more difficult to extinguish a housefire.<br />
# Like all 3D printers, printers fitted with a high temperature all metal hotend can be a fire hazard. You are using experimental technology to heat and melt plastic, in a machine that you may have built or modified yourself, that likely does not have safety certification or significant failsafes. Fire/Smoke alarms, supervision of your printer while printing, and expertise should not be considered optional.<br />
# Your HotEnd and your printer is your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.<br />
<br />
== Assembly Steps ==<br />
=== HotSide ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertNozzle.jpg|thumb|left|Nozzle screwed into block, and unscrewed a 1/2 turn.]]<br />
Screw Nozzle into the Heater Block into the end closest to the thermistor holes.<br />
Unscrew the Nozzle a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertBreak.jpg|thumb|left|Break screwed into block level with top of block.]]<br />
Screw the Heat Break into the other side of the Heater Block so it is butts up against the nozzle.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FirstTighten.jpg|thumb|left|A first, slight tightening of the nozzle against the break.]]<br />
Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner. '''Do not over-tighten, we are going to tighten it up later when the heater block is hot.'''<br />
<br />
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=== Thermistor ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - CutSleeving.jpg|thumb|left|Cutting the sleeving to length. Sleeving on thermistor.]]<br />
Cut the blue glass-fiber sleeving into 2 x 35mm lengths and slide them onto the legs of the thermistor. Optional: Crimp a ferrule on each leg over the sleeving (as shown in the photograph below) to ensure the sleeving stays in place. Ensure you position this ferrule such that it will not touch the heater block when assembled (you will need to place it some way from the thermistor head if you are assembling a volcano heater block).<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - BendThermistor.jpg|thumb|left|Thermistor bent into initial shape.]]<br />
Holding the thermistor between your finger and thumb, make a 90º bend in the legs about 5mm from the tip of the bead.<br />
Thermistor bent into initial shape.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - WasherSides.jpg|thumb|left|Smooth and rough side of the washer.]]<br />
Bear in mind that due to the manufacturing process, washers often have slightly sharper edges on one of their sides. When you put the washer on the screw - make sure the smooth side is up against the sleeving to eliminate any risk of damaging the insulation. <br />
<br />
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[[File:v6 Assembly - FastenThermistor.jpg|thumb|left|Thermistor being clamped into place.]]<br />
Place the of the thermistor into the hole, and fasten in place using the smaller M3x4 screw and washer. Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FastenThermistorDone.jpg|thumb|left|Thermistor clamped into place.]]<br />
It should look like this when clamped.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - CheckThermistor.jpg|thumb|left|The sleeving runs into the thermistor hole insulating it right down to the glass bead.]]<br />
Visually check that the blue sleeving is isulating the legs of the thermistor right down to the bead. If the legs make electrical contact with the block or eachother your temperature readings will be incorrect and you risk overheating.<br />
<br />
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=== Heater Cartridge ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - InsertCartridge.jpg|thumb|left|Heater inserted into block.]]<br />
If you have one, grab a multimeter and check the resistance of your heater cartridge against the table below. Expect your value to deviate a little from these, a difference of around plus or minus 5W is fine, however if yours is significantly off or you are concerned you have the wrong cartridge please get in touch. <br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
| P\V|| 12v || 24v<br />
|-<br />
| 40w (Red Leads) || 3.6Ω || 14.4Ω<br />
|-<br />
| 25w (Blue Leads) || 5.76Ω || 23.04Ω<br />
|-<br />
| 30w (Blue Leads) || 4.8Ω || 19.2Ω<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Insert the Heater Cartridge with the leads exiting the block the same side as the thermistor. Centre the cartridge in it's hole in the block.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - HeaterClamp.jpg|thumb|left|HeaterBlock tightened around cartridge.]]<br />
Tighten the clamping portion of the heater block around the heater cartridge with the longer M3x10 screw. As in the photo below you should be able to see very slight deformation of the heater block clamp as it wraps around the cartridge for maximum thermal contact.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== Thermistor Wire ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - StrippedThermistorWire.jpg|thumb|left|Stripped wire with heatshrink.]]<br />
Strip the ends of the red and black thermistor cable and put a length of heatshrink over each wire.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - ThermistorBent.jpg|thumb|left|Thermistor wires formed into hooks ready to crimp.]]<br />
Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg, if you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the hotend it makes it easier to push them over the wires later.<br />
Form the thermistor wire and bare portion of the thermistor legs into hooks, and hook the legs together.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FerruleOver.jpg|thumb|left|Ferrule over bare portion of wires.]]<br />
Push the ferrule over the bare portions of the wires ready to crimp into place.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FerruleCrushed.jpg|thumb|left|Crushing the ferrule.]]<br />
Crimp the ferrules by firmly crushing them with a pair of pliers. You can use a fancy ferrule crimping tool if you have one, but it's not needed.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - Shrink.jpg|thumb|left|Heatshrink being shrunk.]]<br />
Slide the heatshrink down over the now crushed ferrules and shrink into place with a heat source such as a soldering iron, hot air gun or even a flame.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
===Thermal Compound===<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - AddCompound.jpg|thumb|left|Thermal compound spread over the threads of the heat-break.]]<br />
From mid-September 2015 all E3D-v6 HotEnds will be supplied with a small sachet of thermal compound. This improves heat-transfer from the heat-break threads to the heat-sink for slightly better thermal performance in marginal cases. The thermal compound should be spread evenly across the threads of the heat-break, only on the cold-side of the heat-break that screws into the heat-sink. The compound should not be used on any of the threads on the hot-side of the heat-break. The small sachet of compound contains more than is needed for one HotEnd, so don't feel like you need to use all of it.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - TightenHeatsink.jpg|thumb|left|Heatsink is screwed down onto top of heatbreak.]]<br />
Screw the HeatSink onto the HeatBreak by gripping the heatsink in one hand and the heater block in the other. It only needs to be tightened up hand-tight. Do not overtighten.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
=== PTFE Tubing (Where Applicable) ===<br />
==== 1.75mm Universal (with Bowden) ====<br />
<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - 175PTFE.jpg|thumb|left|PTFE Tubing being pushed down into HotEnd.]]<br />
<br />
Insert PTFE Tubing<br />
* These steps apply only to 1.75mm Direct, 1.75mm Bowden, and 3mm Bowden users. 3mm Direct does not use any PTFE tubing.<br />
* The PTFE tubing in the 1.75mm Direct configuration is not optional, you must use the tubing or the HotEnd will not function properly.<br />
* The tubing should be inserted from the top of the now assembled hotend and pushed as far down into the hotend as possible.<br />
* In the 1.75mm versions the PTFE tube actually runs through the Heat Sink and into the Heat Break, please ensure the tubing as seated as deep into the hotend as possible.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - 175PTFEInside.jpg|thumb|left|PTFE going down into Heat Break.]]<br />
In 1.75mm HotEnds the tubing passes right through the heatsink and into the heatbreak. Below is an illustration of how far down the PTFE tubing must extend. The photo below is not an assembly step, just an illustration of what should be happening inside your hotend.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
==== 3mm Bowden ====<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - 300PTFE.jpg|thumb|left|3mm PTFE Tubing Inserted.]]<br />
In the 3mm Bowden version the PTFE tubing pushes into the top of the heatsink and stops inside the heatsink.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
=== PTFE Recommendations ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - Half a Wades Block.jpg|thumb|left|An optimal tubing configuration in a wades extruder.]]<br />
* On bowden systems it is especially helpful to 'lock in' the PTFE tubing so that it cannot move around during retraction, this increases reliability, and gives much better retraction performance in general. To do this, push the PTFE firmly into the hotend, while pulling upwards on the black collet that retains the tubing. This locks the tubing into place so that it cannot move during retraction. It is important to do this at both ends of the tube.<br />
* To release the tubing from the heatsink simply press down on the black or grey collet in the top of heatsink while pulling on the tubing.<br />
* In 1.75mm Direct configurations thought should be given to running the PTFE right up as close to the hobbed bolt/drive gear as possible as this provides the easiest loading and the best performance with all filament types. However if you do not wish to run PTFE up to the hobbed bolt or drive gear you can simply cut the tubing off flush with the top of the hotend.<br />
* Shown below is a cutaway illustration of how an optimal PTFE configuration might look in a wades type extruder. The PTFE tubing extends right up to the hobbed bolt.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== Fan & Duct ===<br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FanPrepared.jpg|thumb|left|Fan with screws inserted.]]<br />
* Figure out which way up you want the fan-duct to sit on the HotEnd given your particular mounting arrangements. We recommend mounting it with the over-hang at the top. If you have it hanging down however, please keep it clear of the heater block.<br />
* Remove the fan duct from the HeatSink.<br />
* Screw the screws into the fan such that the ends are just protruding from the other side of the fan. The sticker of the fan must face the heatsink to blow air over the heatsink.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - FanScrew.jpg|thumb|left|Screwing fan to duct.]]<br />
Using the 4 Plastfast screws, attach the fan to the fan-duct such that the wires exit the fan in a convenient location - preferably such that it can be bundled in with the thermistor and heater cartridge cables.<br />
<br />
'''It can sometimes take quite a lot of torque to get the screws all the way in. Be sure to select a screwdriver that is a good fit or you risk striping the heads of the screws.''' <br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - ClipFan.jpg|thumb|left|Fan duct clipping to heatsink.]]<br />
Clip the fan duct to the HeatSink.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - CablesTied.jpg|thumb|left|Cable tie all wires together.]]<br />
* Cable-tie all cables together as additional strain relief.<br />
* It is important to ensure the wires of the fan and the red/black section of the thermistor cable are cable-tied and strain relieved in such a way that they cannot come into contact with the heater block at any time.<br />
* Fan should be wired directly to a 12v power supply and be constantly running. Do not connect to a "Fan" output of a controller board or similar, these are for fans that cool the printed object, not a hotend fan which needs to always be running.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== Configure Firmware (Easy!) ===<br />
<br />
In the following stages we are going to configure the HotEnd in firmware then go on to do the final hot-tighten of the HotEnd. This can be done either on or off your printer, however where practical we recommend doing it off your printer, then mounting.<br />
<br />
Connect the heater-cartridge and thermistor to your electronics board. Please refer to the documentation specific to your electronics for Pin-Outs and other technical information which may be relevant to the HotEnd installation.<br />
<br />
==== Marlin ====<br />
Reconfigure your firmware for the Semitec 104GT2 thermistor:<br />
In configuration.h: <br />
* #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5<br />
<br />
For safety it is strongly recommended to do the following:<br />
* Set the minimum temperature to detect bad wiring (''HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5'' in configuration.h)<br />
<br />
In newer versions of Marlin there are extra features for [https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/Development/Marlin/Configuration.h#L227 Thermal Runaway Protection] should your thermistor come loose. <br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== Repetier ====<br />
Use thermistor definition number 8:<br />
* #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 8<br />
Or select "ATC Semitec 104-GT2" if using the [http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v091/ Online Configuration Tool (v091)]<br />
<br />
For safety it is strongly recommended to do the following:<br />
* Set the ''Minimum defect temperature'' to ensure that the thermistor shorting out is caught by the firmware. <br />
<br />
New in [http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v091/ Online Configuration Tool (v092)] are the two options to also improve safety:<br />
* ''Decouple hold variance'' and ''Decouple min temp. rise'' to detect the thermistor coming loose. These must be set appropriately for your system to ensure that they work properly. <br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== Smoothieware ==== <br />
Use thermistor definition “Semitec”:<br />
* temperature_control.hotend.thermistor Semitec<br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
==== RepRapFirmware ====<br />
Use the Beta value 4267K.<br />
<br />
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.<br />
<br />
=== PID Tuning ===<br />
* Connect to the printer<br />
* Run M303 to autotune your PID - check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information. Please note that not all firmwares support autotune, and you may need to tune manually.<br />
* Set the HotEnd temperature to 285ºC. If you did not do a PID tune, then approach this temperature slowly, exceeding 295ºC will permanently damage the thermistor.<br />
<br />
=== Final Tightening ===<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:v6 Assembly - HotTighten.jpg|thumb|left|Doing the final tightening of the nozzle.]]<br />
* When the HotEnd is at tempereature, tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block with a spanner. This will tighten the nozzle against the HeatBreak and ensure that your HotEnd does not leak. You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle - this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner. The nozzle does not need to be torqued down incredibly tightly to form a good seal, when at lower tempreatures the aluminium will contract and hold the Nozzle and HeatBreak together.<br />
<br />
You are now ready to mount the HotEnd to your printer. Happy Printing!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Usage Guidance==<br />
<br />
In general the E3D-v6 hotend is highly tolerant of most printing conditions and is designed to accept the vast majority of filaments on the market. There are however some things to be aware of:<br />
<br />
* Filament must be within acceptable diameter tolerance. For 1.75mm this means 1.70mm - 1.80mm and for 3.00mm/2.85mm the filament must be between 2.80mm and 3.05mm<br />
* Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. E3D-v6 hotends need less retraction than most hotends. For direct extrusion systems you should use anywhere from 0.5mm-1.0mm, for bowden systems you might want to go up to 2mm. Retraction beyond 2mm is likely to cause issues.<br />
* The heatsink must be cooled! Heated chambers, fan ducts that restrict flow, and not having the fan running at 100% at all times are common causes of issues. The heatsink should be cool to the touch at all times. If your heatsink is warm to the touch then you have a cooling issue that must be addressed.</div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6209E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-06-01T14:21:52Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div>A guide to upgrading your Ultimaker 2 3D printer to use the E3D-Extruder and range of hot ends.<br />
<br />
This guide was originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution. <br />
<br />
'''Please note that this guide is a work in progress and will be updated periodically'''<br />
<br />
=Introduction.=<br />
Please familiarise yourself with this guide and your printer before choosing to continue.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
=You Will Need.=<br />
<br />
* 1 x Ultimaker 2<br />
* 1 x [https://e3d-online.com/E3D-on-Ultimaker E3D for Ultimaker Upgrade Kit]<br />
** 1 x NEMA17 Motor (Only required if you can't remove the one from your extruder)<br />
** 1 x [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder]<br />
** 1 x E3D-v6 (1.75mm or 3mm Bowden 24V 40W PT100 1700mm wiring)<br />
** 1 x Set of [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339552 Printed 'XY' Carriage]<br />
** 1 x [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339552 Limit Switch Extender]<br />
** 1 x Bowden Adaptor for [https://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Adaptor-1.75mm-Filament 1.75mm] or [https://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Adaptor-3mm-Filament 3mm] filament<br />
** 1 x Ultimaker Fixings Kit <br />
*** 12 x M3 Hex Nuts<br />
*** 16 x M3 Washers<br />
*** 10 x Cable Ties<br />
<br />
=What Tools Are Required.=<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Wire Cutters.jpeg|Wire cutters for trimming or stripping wires. Could use scissors or craft knife etc.<br />
File:Phillips-Screwdriver.jpeg|Phillips screwdriver for unscrewing UM2 hot end heater retaining screw.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Disassembly.=<br />
<br />
* Heat your hot end up and retract your filament as if you were going to change filament.<br />
* Turn the heat down and wait for the HotEnd to cool.<br />
* Unplug your Ultimaker 2 from the power supply.<br />
* Remove all of the black cable clips between the Bowden feed tube and the hot end wiring loom.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Cable-clips.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 Black cable clips.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
==Removing the XY Carriage.==<br />
<br />
* Fully unscrew all four long vertical thumbscrews at the top of the carriage.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:UM2-XY-Carriage.jpg|left|thumb|Existing UM2 XY Carriage.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
* The upper and lower black layers in the plastic carriage should loosen easily so the bearings can be popped out sideways.<br />
* Once the bearings are removed the carriage can be removed, piece by piece from the printer to work separately. <br />
* The linear bearings will be left on the rails, we re-use them with the new XY Carriage.<br />
<br />
==Removing Part Fans.==<br />
<br />
*Trace the wires from the two part fans back through the wiring loom about 150mm and disconnect at their plugs. The black net sleeving can be easily be peeled back.<br />
*Unscrew both fans from the metal fan ducts and put the fans and screws by for later.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws (or in my case only two) that hold the metal twin fan duct to the hot end heatsink block. The fan duct can now be removed.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:UM2-Fans.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 part cooling fans.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Fan-ducts.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 Fan Ducts.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
==Disassembling the Hot End.==<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Why is this happening? Surely the whole head just goes in the bin? All we want is to get the fans off..?</span> <br />
*Remove Bowden tube from carriage by pushing down on the release collar.<br />
*Unscrew the single fastener in the heater block with a phillips screwdriver.<br />
*Remove the PT100 temperature sensor(smaller diameter) and the heater cartridge (larger diameter) with some small pliers.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws that hold the end cooling fan onto the heat sink.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Heater-Block-Screw.jpg|left|thumb|Unscrew the fastener in the heater block.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Remove-Cartridges.jpg|left|thumb|Pull out the PT100 thermocouple and heater cartridges]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:End-of-Loom.jpg|left|thumb|This should now be the carriage end of your loom]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
*Trace the cooling fan wires back to through the loom and disconnect at the first plug (about 200mm away).<br />
<br />
==Remove the Hot End Heating Components.==<br />
In this guide we are using a fully assembled E3D HotEnd which already has the a heating element and higher performance PT100 sensor installed. <br />
<br />
* Turn the machine onto it's right side so that you can access the underside where you will see the white electronics board.<br />
* Unscrew the 4x screws of the board with a hex key with access from the inside of the machine.<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">We need a photo of the 4 screws that need to be removed.</span> <br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Removing-electronics-board.jpg|left|thumb|Access electronics board mounting screws from inside.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
*Careful not to loose the black plastic board spacers, remove the screws and rotate the board so the USB/power switch etc come easily away from the rear of the machine.<br />
*Disconnect the PT100 temperature sensor plug and the heater cartridge wires. The heater wires are removed by pushing in the orange plungers on the green terminals with a flat screwdriver.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Disconnect-Temp-Sensor.jpeg|left|thumb|Remove the PT100 thermocouple plug.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Disconnect-Heater.jpg|left|thumb|Disconnect the two heater wires from the terminals.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
* Once the heating components are removed from the board, it's easier to pull the larger cartridge through the wiring loom from the extruder end of the loom, and the smaller PT100 cartridge through the loom from the electronics end.<br />
<br />
=Recap.=<br />
<br />
By now you should have these parts removed but saved for later :<br />
*Cable Clips.<br />
*2 x part fans.<br />
*8 x part fan screws.<br />
<br />
And these parts removed and available as "spares" :<br />
*UM2 heater cartridge.<br />
*UM2 PT100 temperature sensor.<br />
*UM2 heat sink fan.<br />
*UM2 metal double fan ducts.<br />
*UM2 heat sink, heat block and nozzle.<br />
*UM2 XY Carriage in 3 pieces.<br />
*Some screws.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Parts-removed.jpg|left|thumb|Parts removed at this stage]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Parts-removed2.jpg|left|thumb|Parts removed at this stage]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
=Assembly.=<br />
<br />
It is now time to work in reverse order, only you need to replace the UM2 parts with their E3D alternatives as well as using the 3D printed replacements.<br />
==Assembling the Hot End Heating Components.==<br />
*Prepare the end of the heater wires by stripping back some cable insulation and the fibreglass sheathing.<br />
*Plug the heater wires into the electronics board in the same place as the previous UM2 version.<br />
*Plug in the PT100 thermocouple wires into the same place as the previous UM2 version.<br />
*While the rear of the board is exposed, move the hot end cooling fan wires from the 5V pins to the 24V source as shown to provide the correct voltage for the E3D HotEnd heatsink fan. The positive pin is the one nearest the main power plug input on the side.<br />
*Push the cartridges back though the wiring loom to the carriage end.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Wires Stripped.jpg|left|thumb|Heater wires stripped and prepared.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Plug-In-Heater-Wires.jpeg|left|thumb|Re-position fan power from 5V to 24V and also connect heater wires.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Plug-in-PT100-Thermocouple.jpg|left|thumb|Plug in the PT100 thermocouple.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Assembling the XY Carriage.==<br />
<br />
The new printed XY Carriage is in 4 layers, Layer 1 is the bottom and layer 4 is the top. Layers 1 and 2 are the same part however layer 2 is orientated upside down. The HotEnd should be positioned in the front left quadrant of the smooth rod's crossover.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Carriage-Layer1.jpg|left|thumb|Insert V6 HotEnd into hole in layer 1 and slide along groove mount first.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Carriage-Layer2.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 2 should slot over layer one and sandwich the bearing in place.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-Layer3.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 3 should fit under the upper bearing.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-Layer4.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 4 will sandwich the upper bearing onto layer 3.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-All-Layers.jpg|left|thumb|Layers 1-2 can slide under layers 3-4 until the 4 long thumbscrews can be inserted down the corner holes.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
* Insert the four long thumbscrews down the corner holes making sure there are washers under the heads.<br />
* Install thumbscrews in the two front positions and one of the back positions. At the bottom of the screws use the M3 washers and Nuts. <br />
** The missing screw at the back will give us space to attach the E3D HotEnd cooling fan duct later.<br />
<br />
===HotEnd Cabling===<br />
Time to take the opportunity to feed some cabling through the carriage for the HotEnd heater, thermocouple, HotEnd cooling fan and part cooling fans. The cabling should be fed before the HotEnd fan duct is in place.<br />
* Feed the heater and PT100 cartridges down through the top hole.<br />
* Feed the part cooling fan wires and the Hotend cooling fan wires from underneath up out the top and connect to the same loom connectors as the original UM2 versions. <br />
* Clip the HotEnd fan and duct to the heatsink, carefully paying attention to not trap any wires. For this you will need to raise one of the rear thumb screws that you left un-nutted from above. Once clipped in, add this final washer and nut to the thumb screw.<br />
<br />
==Assembling the Fan Ducts.==<br />
<br />
* Add another layer of nuts to the thumb screws until they sit around 5mm from the top of the threads to keep them out of the way. The will later be used to clamp the top of the printed fan ducts.<br />
* Add each fan duct in turn, using 2x M3 washers on the top of the hole on each side.<br />
* Finish off by adding the final layer of M3 washers and M3 nuts. <br />
* Adjust the height of the fan ducts by adjusting the nut positions.<br />
* Tighten up the nuts to hold the fan in position. <br />
* Screw the part cooling fans to the printed fan ducts. The sticker on the fan must point into the duct so that air flows over the print. <br />
[[File:Assembled-Fan-Ducts.jpg|left|thumb|When finished, your fan ducts should be sandwiched with nuts on the thumb screws like this.]]<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Moving the X Home Limit Switch.==<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Why does this need to happen? Can't we flip the assembly to move the HE to the right hand side and thus remove this step entirely?</span> <br />
<br />
Due to the modified geometry of the XY carriage it is necessary to reposition the X home limit switch by 10mm. It is found inside at the rear left top of the machine .<br />
*Remove the existing X home limit switch by unscrewing the two screws.<br />
*Placing the limit switch in the new printed holder.<br />
*Re-attach screws into new plastic holes in holder.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Limit-Switch-Removal.jpg|left|thumb|Unscrew X home limit switch.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Printed_X_Limit_Switch_Extender.jpeg|left|thumb|Place limit switch in printed holder.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Limit-Switch-Installed.jpg|left|thumb|Screw into holes in new holder.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Switching out the Extruder.==<br />
<br />
*Retract all of the filament from the extruder.<br />
*Push down on the collar to remove Bowden tube from extruder.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws which holds the extruder onto the body of the motor.<br />
*Remove the knurled drive from the motor shaft by unscrewing the set screw. If you cannot remove the knurled drive from the existing extruder motor then it will have to be swapped out with a new NEMA 17 motor<br />
*Pre-assemble the E3D-Extruder according to the official documentation. (Link).<br />
*Fit extruder to the motor and screw through the rear panel.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:UM2-Original-Extruder.jpg|left|thumb|Remove the 4 screws.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:UM2-Knurled-Drive.jpg|left|thumb|Remove the knurled drive from the motor shaft.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Fitted-E3D-Extruder.jpeg|left|thumb|Fitted E3D-Extruder.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
=Firmware Changes.=<br />
Edits are required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo.<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088491 download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088495 Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software.<br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,456}<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<br />
I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
The following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". I have tried many combinations of these values with little effect.<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
=Gallery of Finished Conversion.=<br />
<div><br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery1.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery2.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery3.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery4.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery5.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery6.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery7.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery8.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
</div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Gallery8.jpg&diff=6208File:UM2-Gallery8.jpg2016-06-01T14:08:46Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Gallery7.jpg&diff=6207File:UM2-Gallery7.jpg2016-06-01T14:08:34Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Gallery6.jpg&diff=6206File:UM2-Gallery6.jpg2016-06-01T14:08:21Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Gallery5.jpg&diff=6205File:UM2-Gallery5.jpg2016-06-01T14:08:09Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Gallery4.jpg&diff=6204File:UM2-Gallery4.jpg2016-06-01T14:07:52Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Gallery3.jpg&diff=6203File:UM2-Gallery3.jpg2016-06-01T14:07:34Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Gallery2.jpg&diff=6202File:UM2-Gallery2.jpg2016-06-01T14:07:19Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Gallery1.jpg&diff=6201File:UM2-Gallery1.jpg2016-06-01T14:07:04Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg&diff=6200File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg2016-06-01T14:06:45Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Fitted-E3D-Extruder.jpeg&diff=6199File:Fitted-E3D-Extruder.jpeg2016-06-01T14:06:28Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Knurled-Drive.jpg&diff=6198File:UM2-Knurled-Drive.jpg2016-06-01T14:05:45Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Original-Extruder.jpg&diff=6197File:UM2-Original-Extruder.jpg2016-06-01T14:05:29Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Limit-Switch-Installed.jpg&diff=6196File:Limit-Switch-Installed.jpg2016-06-01T14:05:11Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Printed_X_Limit_Switch_Extender.jpeg&diff=6195File:Printed X Limit Switch Extender.jpeg2016-06-01T14:04:52Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Limit-Switch-Removal.jpg&diff=6194File:Limit-Switch-Removal.jpg2016-06-01T14:04:37Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Assembled-Fan-Ducts.jpg&diff=6193File:Assembled-Fan-Ducts.jpg2016-06-01T14:04:15Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Carriage-All-Layers.jpg&diff=6192File:Carriage-All-Layers.jpg2016-06-01T14:03:39Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Carriage-Layer4.jpg&diff=6191File:Carriage-Layer4.jpg2016-06-01T14:03:21Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Carriage-Layer3.jpg&diff=6190File:Carriage-Layer3.jpg2016-06-01T14:03:07Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Carriage-Layer2.jpg&diff=6189File:Carriage-Layer2.jpg2016-06-01T14:02:55Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Carriage-Layer1.jpg&diff=6188File:Carriage-Layer1.jpg2016-06-01T14:02:39Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Plug-in-PT100-Thermocouple.jpg&diff=6187File:Plug-in-PT100-Thermocouple.jpg2016-06-01T14:02:05Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Wires_Stripped.jpg&diff=6186File:Wires Stripped.jpg2016-06-01T13:57:40Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Parts-removed2.jpg&diff=6185File:Parts-removed2.jpg2016-06-01T13:57:12Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Parts-removed.jpg&diff=6184File:Parts-removed.jpg2016-06-01T13:56:48Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Disconnect-Heater.jpg&diff=6183File:Disconnect-Heater.jpg2016-06-01T13:56:32Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Disconnect-Temp-Sensor.jpeg&diff=6182File:Disconnect-Temp-Sensor.jpeg2016-06-01T13:56:00Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Removing-electronics-board.jpg&diff=6181File:Removing-electronics-board.jpg2016-06-01T13:55:41Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:End-of-Loom.jpg&diff=6180File:End-of-Loom.jpg2016-06-01T13:55:25Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Remove-Cartridges.jpg&diff=6179File:Remove-Cartridges.jpg2016-06-01T13:55:06Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Heater-Block-Screw.jpg&diff=6178File:Heater-Block-Screw.jpg2016-06-01T13:54:45Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Fan-ducts.jpg&diff=6177File:Fan-ducts.jpg2016-06-01T13:37:36Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-Fans.jpg&diff=6176File:UM2-Fans.jpg2016-06-01T13:36:41Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:UM2-XY-Carriage.jpg&diff=6175File:UM2-XY-Carriage.jpg2016-06-01T13:36:25Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Cable-clips.jpg&diff=6174File:Cable-clips.jpg2016-06-01T13:35:47Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:Example.jpg&diff=6173File:Example.jpg2016-06-01T13:34:59Z<p>Dan: </p>
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<div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6172E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-06-01T13:34:37Z<p>Dan: /* Introduction. */</p>
<hr />
<div>A guide to upgrading your Ultimaker 2 3D printer to use the E3D-Extruder and range of hot ends.<br />
<br />
This guide was originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution. <br />
<br />
=Introduction.=<br />
Please familiarise yourself with this guide and your printer before choosing to continue.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
=You Will Need.=<br />
<br />
* 1 x Ultimaker 2<br />
* 1 x [https://e3d-online.com/E3D-on-Ultimaker E3D for Ultimaker Upgrade Kit]<br />
** 1 x NEMA17 Motor (Only required if you can't remove the one from your extruder)<br />
** 1 x [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder]<br />
** 1 x E3D-v6 (1.75mm or 3mm Bowden 24V 40W PT100 1700mm wiring)<br />
** 1 x Set of [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339552 Printed 'XY' Carriage]<br />
** 1 x [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339552 Limit Switch Extender]<br />
** 1 x Bowden Adaptor for [https://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Adaptor-1.75mm-Filament 1.75mm] or [https://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Adaptor-3mm-Filament 3mm] filament<br />
** 1 x Ultimaker Fixings Kit <br />
*** 12 x M3 Hex Nuts<br />
*** 16 x M3 Washers<br />
*** 10 x Cable Ties<br />
<br />
=What Tools Are Required.=<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Wire Cutters.jpeg|Wire cutters for trimming or stripping wires. Could use scissors or craft knife etc.<br />
File:Phillips-Screwdriver.jpeg|Phillips screwdriver for unscrewing UM2 hot end heater retaining screw.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Disassembly.=<br />
<br />
* Heat your hot end up and retract your filament as if you were going to change filament.<br />
* Turn the heat down and wait for the HotEnd to cool.<br />
* Unplug your Ultimaker 2 from the power supply.<br />
* Remove all of the black cable clips between the Bowden feed tube and the hot end wiring loom.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Cable-clips.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 Black cable clips.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
==Removing the XY Carriage.==<br />
<br />
* Fully unscrew all four long vertical thumbscrews at the top of the carriage.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:UM2-XY-Carriage.jpg|left|thumb|Existing UM2 XY Carriage.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
* The upper and lower black layers in the plastic carriage should loosen easily so the bearings can be popped out sideways.<br />
* Once the bearings are removed the carriage can be removed, piece by piece from the printer to work separately. <br />
* The linear bearings will be left on the rails, we re-use them with the new XY Carriage.<br />
<br />
==Removing Part Fans.==<br />
<br />
*Trace the wires from the two part fans back through the wiring loom about 150mm and disconnect at their plugs. The black net sleeving can be easily be peeled back.<br />
*Unscrew both fans from the metal fan ducts and put the fans and screws by for later.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws (or in my case only two) that hold the metal twin fan duct to the hot end heatsink block. The fan duct can now be removed.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:UM2-Fans.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 part cooling fans.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Fan-ducts.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 Fan Ducts.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
==Disassembling the Hot End.==<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Why is this happening? Surely the whole head just goes in the bin? All we want is to get the fans off..?</span> <br />
*Remove Bowden tube from carriage by pushing down on the release collar.<br />
*Unscrew the single fastener in the heater block with a phillips screwdriver.<br />
*Remove the PT100 temperature sensor(smaller diameter) and the heater cartridge (larger diameter) with some small pliers.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws that hold the end cooling fan onto the heat sink.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Heater-Block-Screw.jpg|left|thumb|Unscrew the fastener in the heater block.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Remove-Cartridges.jpg|left|thumb|Pull out the PT100 thermocouple and heater cartridges]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:End-of-Loom.jpg|left|thumb|This should now be the carriage end of your loom]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
*Trace the cooling fan wires back to through the loom and disconnect at the first plug (about 200mm away).<br />
<br />
==Remove the Hot End Heating Components.==<br />
In this guide we are using a fully assembled E3D HotEnd which already has the a heating element and higher performance PT100 sensor installed. <br />
<br />
* Turn the machine onto it's right side so that you can access the underside where you will see the white electronics board.<br />
* Unscrew the 4x screws of the board with a hex key with access from the inside of the machine.<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">We need a photo of the 4 screws that need to be removed.</span> <br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Removing-electronics-board.jpg|left|thumb|Access electronics board mounting screws from inside.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
*Careful not to loose the black plastic board spacers, remove the screws and rotate the board so the USB/power switch etc come easily away from the rear of the machine.<br />
*Disconnect the PT100 temperature sensor plug and the heater cartridge wires. The heater wires are removed by pushing in the orange plungers on the green terminals with a flat screwdriver.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Disconnect-Temp-Sensor.jpeg|left|thumb|Remove the PT100 thermocouple plug.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Disconnect-Heater.jpg|left|thumb|Disconnect the two heater wires from the terminals.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
* Once the heating components are removed from the board, it's easier to pull the larger cartridge through the wiring loom from the extruder end of the loom, and the smaller PT100 cartridge through the loom from the electronics end.<br />
<br />
=Recap.=<br />
<br />
By now you should have these parts removed but saved for later :<br />
*Cable Clips.<br />
*2 x part fans.<br />
*8 x part fan screws.<br />
<br />
And these parts removed and available as "spares" :<br />
*UM2 heater cartridge.<br />
*UM2 PT100 temperature sensor.<br />
*UM2 heat sink fan.<br />
*UM2 metal double fan ducts.<br />
*UM2 heat sink, heat block and nozzle.<br />
*UM2 XY Carriage in 3 pieces.<br />
*Some screws.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Parts-removed.jpg|left|thumb|Parts removed at this stage]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Parts-removed2.jpg|left|thumb|Parts removed at this stage]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
=Assembly.=<br />
<br />
It is now time to work in reverse order, only you need to replace the UM2 parts with their E3D alternatives as well as using the 3D printed replacements.<br />
==Assembling the Hot End Heating Components.==<br />
*Prepare the end of the heater wires by stripping back some cable insulation and the fibreglass sheathing.<br />
*Plug the heater wires into the electronics board in the same place as the previous UM2 version.<br />
*Plug in the PT100 thermocouple wires into the same place as the previous UM2 version.<br />
*While the rear of the board is exposed, move the hot end cooling fan wires from the 5V pins to the 24V source as shown to provide the correct voltage for the E3D HotEnd heatsink fan. The positive pin is the one nearest the main power plug input on the side.<br />
*Push the cartridges back though the wiring loom to the carriage end.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Wires Stripped.jpg|left|thumb|Heater wires stripped and prepared.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Plug-In-Heater-Wires.jpeg|left|thumb|Re-position fan power from 5V to 24V and also connect heater wires.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Plug-in-PT100-Thermocouple.jpg|left|thumb|Plug in the PT100 thermocouple.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Assembling the XY Carriage.==<br />
<br />
The new printed XY Carriage is in 4 layers, Layer 1 is the bottom and layer 4 is the top. Layers 1 and 2 are the same part however layer 2 is orientated upside down. The HotEnd should be positioned in the front left quadrant of the smooth rod's crossover.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Carriage-Layer1.jpg|left|thumb|Insert V6 HotEnd into hole in layer 1 and slide along groove mount first.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Carriage-Layer2.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 2 should slot over layer one and sandwich the bearing in place.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-Layer3.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 3 should fit under the upper bearing.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-Layer4.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 4 will sandwich the upper bearing onto layer 3.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-All-Layers.jpg|left|thumb|Layers 1-2 can slide under layers 3-4 until the 4 long thumbscrews can be inserted down the corner holes.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
* Insert the four long thumbscrews down the corner holes making sure there are washers under the heads.<br />
* Install thumbscrews in the two front positions and one of the back positions. At the bottom of the screws use the M3 washers and Nuts. <br />
** The missing screw at the back will give us space to attach the E3D HotEnd cooling fan duct later.<br />
<br />
===HotEnd Cabling===<br />
Time to take the opportunity to feed some cabling through the carriage for the HotEnd heater, thermocouple, HotEnd cooling fan and part cooling fans. The cabling should be fed before the HotEnd fan duct is in place.<br />
* Feed the heater and PT100 cartridges down through the top hole.<br />
* Feed the part cooling fan wires and the Hotend cooling fan wires from underneath up out the top and connect to the same loom connectors as the original UM2 versions. <br />
* Clip the HotEnd fan and duct to the heatsink, carefully paying attention to not trap any wires. For this you will need to raise one of the rear thumb screws that you left un-nutted from above. Once clipped in, add this final washer and nut to the thumb screw.<br />
<br />
==Assembling the Fan Ducts.==<br />
<br />
* Add another layer of nuts to the thumb screws until they sit around 5mm from the top of the threads to keep them out of the way. The will later be used to clamp the top of the printed fan ducts.<br />
* Add each fan duct in turn, using 2x M3 washers on the top of the hole on each side.<br />
* Finish off by adding the final layer of M3 washers and M3 nuts. <br />
* Adjust the height of the fan ducts by adjusting the nut positions.<br />
* Tighten up the nuts to hold the fan in position. <br />
* Screw the part cooling fans to the printed fan ducts. The sticker on the fan must point into the duct so that air flows over the print. <br />
[[File:Assembled-Fan-Ducts.jpg|left|thumb|When finished, your fan ducts should be sandwiched with nuts on the thumb screws like this.]]<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Moving the X Home Limit Switch.==<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Why does this need to happen? Can't we flip the assembly to move the HE to the right hand side and thus remove this step entirely?</span> <br />
<br />
Due to the modified geometry of the XY carriage it is necessary to reposition the X home limit switch by 10mm. It is found inside at the rear left top of the machine .<br />
*Remove the existing X home limit switch by unscrewing the two screws.<br />
*Placing the limit switch in the new printed holder.<br />
*Re-attach screws into new plastic holes in holder.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Limit-Switch-Removal.jpg|left|thumb|Unscrew X home limit switch.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Printed_X_Limit_Switch_Extender.jpeg|left|thumb|Place limit switch in printed holder.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Limit-Switch-Installed.jpg|left|thumb|Screw into holes in new holder.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Switching out the Extruder.==<br />
<br />
*Retract all of the filament from the extruder.<br />
*Push down on the collar to remove Bowden tube from extruder.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws which holds the extruder onto the body of the motor.<br />
*Remove the knurled drive from the motor shaft by unscrewing the set screw. If you cannot remove the knurled drive from the existing extruder motor then it will have to be swapped out with a new NEMA 17 motor<br />
*Pre-assemble the E3D-Extruder according to the official documentation. (Link).<br />
*Fit extruder to the motor and screw through the rear panel.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:UM2-Original-Extruder.jpg|left|thumb|Remove the 4 screws.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:UM2-Knurled-Drive.jpg|left|thumb|Remove the knurled drive from the motor shaft.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Fitted-E3D-Extruder.jpeg|left|thumb|Fitted E3D-Extruder.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
=Firmware Changes.=<br />
Edits are required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo.<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088491 download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088495 Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software.<br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,456}<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<br />
I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
The following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". I have tried many combinations of these values with little effect.<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
=Gallery of Finished Conversion.=<br />
<div><br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery1.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery2.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery3.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery4.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery5.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery6.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery7.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery8.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
</div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6171E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-06-01T13:34:01Z<p>Dan: /* Introduction. */</p>
<hr />
<div>A guide to upgrading your Ultimaker 2 3D printer to use the E3D-Extruder and range of hot ends.<br />
<br />
This guide was originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution. <br />
<br />
=Introduction.=<br />
Please familiarise yourself with this guide and your printer before choosing to continue.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
=You Will Need.=<br />
<br />
* 1 x Ultimaker 2<br />
* 1 x [https://e3d-online.com/E3D-on-Ultimaker E3D for Ultimaker Upgrade Kit]<br />
** 1 x NEMA17 Motor (Only required if you can't remove the one from your extruder)<br />
** 1 x [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder]<br />
** 1 x E3D-v6 (1.75mm or 3mm Bowden 24V 40W PT100 1700mm wiring)<br />
** 1 x Set of [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339552 Printed 'XY' Carriage]<br />
** 1 x [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339552 Limit Switch Extender]<br />
** 1 x Bowden Adaptor for [https://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Adaptor-1.75mm-Filament 1.75mm] or [https://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Adaptor-3mm-Filament 3mm] filament<br />
** 1 x Ultimaker Fixings Kit <br />
*** 12 x M3 Hex Nuts<br />
*** 16 x M3 Washers<br />
*** 10 x Cable Ties<br />
<br />
=What Tools Are Required.=<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Wire Cutters.jpeg|Wire cutters for trimming or stripping wires. Could use scissors or craft knife etc.<br />
File:Phillips-Screwdriver.jpeg|Phillips screwdriver for unscrewing UM2 hot end heater retaining screw.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Disassembly.=<br />
<br />
* Heat your hot end up and retract your filament as if you were going to change filament.<br />
* Turn the heat down and wait for the HotEnd to cool.<br />
* Unplug your Ultimaker 2 from the power supply.<br />
* Remove all of the black cable clips between the Bowden feed tube and the hot end wiring loom.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Cable-clips.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 Black cable clips.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
==Removing the XY Carriage.==<br />
<br />
* Fully unscrew all four long vertical thumbscrews at the top of the carriage.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:UM2-XY-Carriage.jpg|left|thumb|Existing UM2 XY Carriage.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
* The upper and lower black layers in the plastic carriage should loosen easily so the bearings can be popped out sideways.<br />
* Once the bearings are removed the carriage can be removed, piece by piece from the printer to work separately. <br />
* The linear bearings will be left on the rails, we re-use them with the new XY Carriage.<br />
<br />
==Removing Part Fans.==<br />
<br />
*Trace the wires from the two part fans back through the wiring loom about 150mm and disconnect at their plugs. The black net sleeving can be easily be peeled back.<br />
*Unscrew both fans from the metal fan ducts and put the fans and screws by for later.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws (or in my case only two) that hold the metal twin fan duct to the hot end heatsink block. The fan duct can now be removed.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:UM2-Fans.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 part cooling fans.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Fan-ducts.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 Fan Ducts.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
==Disassembling the Hot End.==<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Why is this happening? Surely the whole head just goes in the bin? All we want is to get the fans off..?</span> <br />
*Remove Bowden tube from carriage by pushing down on the release collar.<br />
*Unscrew the single fastener in the heater block with a phillips screwdriver.<br />
*Remove the PT100 temperature sensor(smaller diameter) and the heater cartridge (larger diameter) with some small pliers.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws that hold the end cooling fan onto the heat sink.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Heater-Block-Screw.jpg|left|thumb|Unscrew the fastener in the heater block.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Remove-Cartridges.jpg|left|thumb|Pull out the PT100 thermocouple and heater cartridges]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:End-of-Loom.jpg|left|thumb|This should now be the carriage end of your loom]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
*Trace the cooling fan wires back to through the loom and disconnect at the first plug (about 200mm away).<br />
<br />
==Remove the Hot End Heating Components.==<br />
In this guide we are using a fully assembled E3D HotEnd which already has the a heating element and higher performance PT100 sensor installed. <br />
<br />
* Turn the machine onto it's right side so that you can access the underside where you will see the white electronics board.<br />
* Unscrew the 4x screws of the board with a hex key with access from the inside of the machine.<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">We need a photo of the 4 screws that need to be removed.</span> <br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Removing-electronics-board.jpg|left|thumb|Access electronics board mounting screws from inside.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
*Careful not to loose the black plastic board spacers, remove the screws and rotate the board so the USB/power switch etc come easily away from the rear of the machine.<br />
*Disconnect the PT100 temperature sensor plug and the heater cartridge wires. The heater wires are removed by pushing in the orange plungers on the green terminals with a flat screwdriver.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Disconnect-Temp-Sensor.jpeg|left|thumb|Remove the PT100 thermocouple plug.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Disconnect-Heater.jpg|left|thumb|Disconnect the two heater wires from the terminals.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
* Once the heating components are removed from the board, it's easier to pull the larger cartridge through the wiring loom from the extruder end of the loom, and the smaller PT100 cartridge through the loom from the electronics end.<br />
<br />
=Recap.=<br />
<br />
By now you should have these parts removed but saved for later :<br />
*Cable Clips.<br />
*2 x part fans.<br />
*8 x part fan screws.<br />
<br />
And these parts removed and available as "spares" :<br />
*UM2 heater cartridge.<br />
*UM2 PT100 temperature sensor.<br />
*UM2 heat sink fan.<br />
*UM2 metal double fan ducts.<br />
*UM2 heat sink, heat block and nozzle.<br />
*UM2 XY Carriage in 3 pieces.<br />
*Some screws.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Parts-removed.jpg|left|thumb|Parts removed at this stage]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Parts-removed2.jpg|left|thumb|Parts removed at this stage]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
=Assembly.=<br />
<br />
It is now time to work in reverse order, only you need to replace the UM2 parts with their E3D alternatives as well as using the 3D printed replacements.<br />
==Assembling the Hot End Heating Components.==<br />
*Prepare the end of the heater wires by stripping back some cable insulation and the fibreglass sheathing.<br />
*Plug the heater wires into the electronics board in the same place as the previous UM2 version.<br />
*Plug in the PT100 thermocouple wires into the same place as the previous UM2 version.<br />
*While the rear of the board is exposed, move the hot end cooling fan wires from the 5V pins to the 24V source as shown to provide the correct voltage for the E3D HotEnd heatsink fan. The positive pin is the one nearest the main power plug input on the side.<br />
*Push the cartridges back though the wiring loom to the carriage end.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Wires Stripped.jpg|left|thumb|Heater wires stripped and prepared.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Plug-In-Heater-Wires.jpeg|left|thumb|Re-position fan power from 5V to 24V and also connect heater wires.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Plug-in-PT100-Thermocouple.jpg|left|thumb|Plug in the PT100 thermocouple.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Assembling the XY Carriage.==<br />
<br />
The new printed XY Carriage is in 4 layers, Layer 1 is the bottom and layer 4 is the top. Layers 1 and 2 are the same part however layer 2 is orientated upside down. The HotEnd should be positioned in the front left quadrant of the smooth rod's crossover.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Carriage-Layer1.jpg|left|thumb|Insert V6 HotEnd into hole in layer 1 and slide along groove mount first.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Carriage-Layer2.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 2 should slot over layer one and sandwich the bearing in place.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-Layer3.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 3 should fit under the upper bearing.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-Layer4.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 4 will sandwich the upper bearing onto layer 3.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-All-Layers.jpg|left|thumb|Layers 1-2 can slide under layers 3-4 until the 4 long thumbscrews can be inserted down the corner holes.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
* Insert the four long thumbscrews down the corner holes making sure there are washers under the heads.<br />
* Install thumbscrews in the two front positions and one of the back positions. At the bottom of the screws use the M3 washers and Nuts. <br />
** The missing screw at the back will give us space to attach the E3D HotEnd cooling fan duct later.<br />
<br />
===HotEnd Cabling===<br />
Time to take the opportunity to feed some cabling through the carriage for the HotEnd heater, thermocouple, HotEnd cooling fan and part cooling fans. The cabling should be fed before the HotEnd fan duct is in place.<br />
* Feed the heater and PT100 cartridges down through the top hole.<br />
* Feed the part cooling fan wires and the Hotend cooling fan wires from underneath up out the top and connect to the same loom connectors as the original UM2 versions. <br />
* Clip the HotEnd fan and duct to the heatsink, carefully paying attention to not trap any wires. For this you will need to raise one of the rear thumb screws that you left un-nutted from above. Once clipped in, add this final washer and nut to the thumb screw.<br />
<br />
==Assembling the Fan Ducts.==<br />
<br />
* Add another layer of nuts to the thumb screws until they sit around 5mm from the top of the threads to keep them out of the way. The will later be used to clamp the top of the printed fan ducts.<br />
* Add each fan duct in turn, using 2x M3 washers on the top of the hole on each side.<br />
* Finish off by adding the final layer of M3 washers and M3 nuts. <br />
* Adjust the height of the fan ducts by adjusting the nut positions.<br />
* Tighten up the nuts to hold the fan in position. <br />
* Screw the part cooling fans to the printed fan ducts. The sticker on the fan must point into the duct so that air flows over the print. <br />
[[File:Assembled-Fan-Ducts.jpg|left|thumb|When finished, your fan ducts should be sandwiched with nuts on the thumb screws like this.]]<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Moving the X Home Limit Switch.==<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Why does this need to happen? Can't we flip the assembly to move the HE to the right hand side and thus remove this step entirely?</span> <br />
<br />
Due to the modified geometry of the XY carriage it is necessary to reposition the X home limit switch by 10mm. It is found inside at the rear left top of the machine .<br />
*Remove the existing X home limit switch by unscrewing the two screws.<br />
*Placing the limit switch in the new printed holder.<br />
*Re-attach screws into new plastic holes in holder.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Limit-Switch-Removal.jpg|left|thumb|Unscrew X home limit switch.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Printed_X_Limit_Switch_Extender.jpeg|left|thumb|Place limit switch in printed holder.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Limit-Switch-Installed.jpg|left|thumb|Screw into holes in new holder.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Switching out the Extruder.==<br />
<br />
*Retract all of the filament from the extruder.<br />
*Push down on the collar to remove Bowden tube from extruder.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws which holds the extruder onto the body of the motor.<br />
*Remove the knurled drive from the motor shaft by unscrewing the set screw. If you cannot remove the knurled drive from the existing extruder motor then it will have to be swapped out with a new NEMA 17 motor<br />
*Pre-assemble the E3D-Extruder according to the official documentation. (Link).<br />
*Fit extruder to the motor and screw through the rear panel.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:UM2-Original-Extruder.jpg|left|thumb|Remove the 4 screws.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:UM2-Knurled-Drive.jpg|left|thumb|Remove the knurled drive from the motor shaft.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Fitted-E3D-Extruder.jpeg|left|thumb|Fitted E3D-Extruder.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
=Firmware Changes.=<br />
Edits are required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo.<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088491 download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088495 Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software.<br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,456}<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<br />
I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
The following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". I have tried many combinations of these values with little effect.<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
=Gallery of Finished Conversion.=<br />
<div><br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery1.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery2.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery3.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery4.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery5.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery6.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery7.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery8.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
</div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2&diff=6170E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 22016-06-01T13:33:13Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div>A guide to upgrading your Ultimaker 2 3D printer to use the E3D-Extruder and range of hot ends.<br />
<br />
This guide was originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution. <br />
<br />
=Introduction.=<br />
Please familiarise yourself with this guide and your printer before choosing to continue.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
=You Will Need.=<br />
<br />
* 1 x Ultimaker 2<br />
* 1 x [https://e3d-online.com/E3D-on-Ultimaker E3D for Ultimaker Upgrade Kit]<br />
** 1 x NEMA17 Motor (Only required if you can't remove the one from your extruder)<br />
** 1 x [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder]<br />
** 1 x E3D-v6 (1.75mm or 3mm Bowden 24V 40W PT100 1700mm wiring)<br />
** 1 x Set of [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339552 Printed 'XY' Carriage]<br />
** 1 x [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339552 Limit Switch Extender]<br />
** 1 x Bowden Adaptor for [https://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Adaptor-1.75mm-Filament 1.75mm] or [https://e3d-online.com/Bowden-Adaptor-3mm-Filament 3mm] filament<br />
** 1 x Ultimaker Fixings Kit <br />
*** 12 x M3 Hex Nuts<br />
*** 16 x M3 Washers<br />
*** 10 x Cable Ties<br />
<br />
=What Tools Are Required.=<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:Wire Cutters.jpeg|Wire cutters for trimming or stripping wires. Could use scissors or craft knife etc.<br />
File:Phillips-Screwdriver.jpeg|Phillips screwdriver for unscrewing UM2 hot end heater retaining screw.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Disassembly.=<br />
<br />
* Heat your hot end up and retract your filament as if you were going to change filament.<br />
* Turn the heat down and wait for the HotEnd to cool.<br />
* Unplug your Ultimaker 2 from the power supply.<br />
* Remove all of the black cable clips between the Bowden feed tube and the hot end wiring loom.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Cable-clips.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 Black cable clips.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
==Removing the XY Carriage.==<br />
<br />
* Fully unscrew all four long vertical thumbscrews at the top of the carriage.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:UM2-XY-Carriage.jpg|left|thumb|Existing UM2 XY Carriage.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
* The upper and lower black layers in the plastic carriage should loosen easily so the bearings can be popped out sideways.<br />
* Once the bearings are removed the carriage can be removed, piece by piece from the printer to work separately. <br />
* The linear bearings will be left on the rails, we re-use them with the new XY Carriage.<br />
<br />
==Removing Part Fans.==<br />
<br />
*Trace the wires from the two part fans back through the wiring loom about 150mm and disconnect at their plugs. The black net sleeving can be easily be peeled back.<br />
*Unscrew both fans from the metal fan ducts and put the fans and screws by for later.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws (or in my case only two) that hold the metal twin fan duct to the hot end heatsink block. The fan duct can now be removed.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:UM2-Fans.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 part cooling fans.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Fan-ducts.jpg|left|thumb|UM2 Fan Ducts.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
==Disassembling the Hot End.==<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Why is this happening? Surely the whole head just goes in the bin? All we want is to get the fans off..?</span> <br />
*Remove Bowden tube from carriage by pushing down on the release collar.<br />
*Unscrew the single fastener in the heater block with a phillips screwdriver.<br />
*Remove the PT100 temperature sensor(smaller diameter) and the heater cartridge (larger diameter) with some small pliers.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws that hold the end cooling fan onto the heat sink.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Heater-Block-Screw.jpg|left|thumb|Unscrew the fastener in the heater block.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Remove-Cartridges.jpg|left|thumb|Pull out the PT100 thermocouple and heater cartridges]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:End-of-Loom.jpg|left|thumb|This should now be the carriage end of your loom]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
*Trace the cooling fan wires back to through the loom and disconnect at the first plug (about 200mm away).<br />
<br />
==Remove the Hot End Heating Components.==<br />
In this guide we are using a fully assembled E3D HotEnd which already has the a heating element and higher performance PT100 sensor installed. <br />
<br />
* Turn the machine onto it's right side so that you can access the underside where you will see the white electronics board.<br />
* Unscrew the 4x screws of the board with a hex key with access from the inside of the machine.<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">We need a photo of the 4 screws that need to be removed.</span> <br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Removing-electronics-board.jpg|left|thumb|Access electronics board mounting screws from inside.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
*Careful not to loose the black plastic board spacers, remove the screws and rotate the board so the USB/power switch etc come easily away from the rear of the machine.<br />
*Disconnect the PT100 temperature sensor plug and the heater cartridge wires. The heater wires are removed by pushing in the orange plungers on the green terminals with a flat screwdriver.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Disconnect-Temp-Sensor.jpeg|left|thumb|Remove the PT100 thermocouple plug.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Disconnect-Heater.jpg|left|thumb|Disconnect the two heater wires from the terminals.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
* Once the heating components are removed from the board, it's easier to pull the larger cartridge through the wiring loom from the extruder end of the loom, and the smaller PT100 cartridge through the loom from the electronics end.<br />
<br />
=Recap.=<br />
<br />
By now you should have these parts removed but saved for later :<br />
*Cable Clips.<br />
*2 x part fans.<br />
*8 x part fan screws.<br />
<br />
And these parts removed and available as "spares" :<br />
*UM2 heater cartridge.<br />
*UM2 PT100 temperature sensor.<br />
*UM2 heat sink fan.<br />
*UM2 metal double fan ducts.<br />
*UM2 heat sink, heat block and nozzle.<br />
*UM2 XY Carriage in 3 pieces.<br />
*Some screws.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Parts-removed.jpg|left|thumb|Parts removed at this stage]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Parts-removed2.jpg|left|thumb|Parts removed at this stage]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
=Assembly.=<br />
<br />
It is now time to work in reverse order, only you need to replace the UM2 parts with their E3D alternatives as well as using the 3D printed replacements.<br />
==Assembling the Hot End Heating Components.==<br />
*Prepare the end of the heater wires by stripping back some cable insulation and the fibreglass sheathing.<br />
*Plug the heater wires into the electronics board in the same place as the previous UM2 version.<br />
*Plug in the PT100 thermocouple wires into the same place as the previous UM2 version.<br />
*While the rear of the board is exposed, move the hot end cooling fan wires from the 5V pins to the 24V source as shown to provide the correct voltage for the E3D HotEnd heatsink fan. The positive pin is the one nearest the main power plug input on the side.<br />
*Push the cartridges back though the wiring loom to the carriage end.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Wires Stripped.jpg|left|thumb|Heater wires stripped and prepared.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Plug-In-Heater-Wires.jpeg|left|thumb|Re-position fan power from 5V to 24V and also connect heater wires.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Plug-in-PT100-Thermocouple.jpg|left|thumb|Plug in the PT100 thermocouple.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Assembling the XY Carriage.==<br />
<br />
The new printed XY Carriage is in 4 layers, Layer 1 is the bottom and layer 4 is the top. Layers 1 and 2 are the same part however layer 2 is orientated upside down. The HotEnd should be positioned in the front left quadrant of the smooth rod's crossover.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Carriage-Layer1.jpg|left|thumb|Insert V6 HotEnd into hole in layer 1 and slide along groove mount first.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Carriage-Layer2.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 2 should slot over layer one and sandwich the bearing in place.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-Layer3.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 3 should fit under the upper bearing.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-Layer4.jpg|left|thumb|Layer 4 will sandwich the upper bearing onto layer 3.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Carriage-All-Layers.jpg|left|thumb|Layers 1-2 can slide under layers 3-4 until the 4 long thumbscrews can be inserted down the corner holes.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
* Insert the four long thumbscrews down the corner holes making sure there are washers under the heads.<br />
* Install thumbscrews in the two front positions and one of the back positions. At the bottom of the screws use the M3 washers and Nuts. <br />
** The missing screw at the back will give us space to attach the E3D HotEnd cooling fan duct later.<br />
<br />
===HotEnd Cabling===<br />
Time to take the opportunity to feed some cabling through the carriage for the HotEnd heater, thermocouple, HotEnd cooling fan and part cooling fans. The cabling should be fed before the HotEnd fan duct is in place.<br />
* Feed the heater and PT100 cartridges down through the top hole.<br />
* Feed the part cooling fan wires and the Hotend cooling fan wires from underneath up out the top and connect to the same loom connectors as the original UM2 versions. <br />
* Clip the HotEnd fan and duct to the heatsink, carefully paying attention to not trap any wires. For this you will need to raise one of the rear thumb screws that you left un-nutted from above. Once clipped in, add this final washer and nut to the thumb screw.<br />
<br />
==Assembling the Fan Ducts.==<br />
<br />
* Add another layer of nuts to the thumb screws until they sit around 5mm from the top of the threads to keep them out of the way. The will later be used to clamp the top of the printed fan ducts.<br />
* Add each fan duct in turn, using 2x M3 washers on the top of the hole on each side.<br />
* Finish off by adding the final layer of M3 washers and M3 nuts. <br />
* Adjust the height of the fan ducts by adjusting the nut positions.<br />
* Tighten up the nuts to hold the fan in position. <br />
* Screw the part cooling fans to the printed fan ducts. The sticker on the fan must point into the duct so that air flows over the print. <br />
[[File:Assembled-Fan-Ducts.jpg|left|thumb|When finished, your fan ducts should be sandwiched with nuts on the thumb screws like this.]]<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Moving the X Home Limit Switch.==<br />
<br />
<span style="color:red; font-weight:bold">Why does this need to happen? Can't we flip the assembly to move the HE to the right hand side and thus remove this step entirely?</span> <br />
<br />
Due to the modified geometry of the XY carriage it is necessary to reposition the X home limit switch by 10mm. It is found inside at the rear left top of the machine .<br />
*Remove the existing X home limit switch by unscrewing the two screws.<br />
*Placing the limit switch in the new printed holder.<br />
*Re-attach screws into new plastic holes in holder.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Limit-Switch-Removal.jpg|left|thumb|Unscrew X home limit switch.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Printed_X_Limit_Switch_Extender.jpeg|left|thumb|Place limit switch in printed holder.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Limit-Switch-Installed.jpg|left|thumb|Screw into holes in new holder.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
==Switching out the Extruder.==<br />
<br />
*Retract all of the filament from the extruder.<br />
*Push down on the collar to remove Bowden tube from extruder.<br />
*Remove the 4 screws which holds the extruder onto the body of the motor.<br />
*Remove the knurled drive from the motor shaft by unscrewing the set screw. If you cannot remove the knurled drive from the existing extruder motor then it will have to be swapped out with a new NEMA 17 motor<br />
*Pre-assemble the E3D-Extruder according to the official documentation. (Link).<br />
*Fit extruder to the motor and screw through the rear panel.<br />
<div><ul> <br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:UM2-Original-Extruder.jpg|left|thumb|Remove the 4 screws.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:UM2-Knurled-Drive.jpg|left|thumb|Remove the knurled drive from the motor shaft.]]<br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top> [[File:Fitted-E3D-Extruder.jpeg|left|thumb|Fitted E3D-Extruder.]]<br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"><br />
<br />
=Firmware Changes.=<br />
Edits are required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo.<br /><br />
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /><br />
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:<br />
#You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088491 download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /><br />
#Here are the modified [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2088495 Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software.<br />
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:<br />
<br />
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd<br />
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400<br />
<br />
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59<br />
#define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65<br />
#define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72<br />
<br />
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd<br />
#define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd<br />
<br />
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false<br />
<br />
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder<br />
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,456}<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec)<br />
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.<br />
<br />
<br />
I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:<br />
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS<br />
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT<br />
<br />
'''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations.<br /><br />
<div><ul><br />
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li><br />
</ul></div><br />
<br />
The following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". I have tried many combinations of these values with little effect.<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 10<br />
#define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (30 * 1000)<br />
<br />
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:<br />
<br />
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd <br />
// disable_heater();<br />
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);<br />
<br />
=Gallery of Finished Conversion.=<br />
<div><br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery1.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery2.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery3.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery4.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery5.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery6.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery7.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
[[File:UM2-Gallery8.jpg|left|thumb|]]<br />
</div></div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Velleman_K8400&diff=6150E3D-v6 on Velleman K84002016-05-26T10:42:09Z<p>Dan: </p>
<hr />
<div>Installation guide for the E3D v6 hotend on the Velleman K8400 VERTEX 3D printer<br />
<br />
==Why upgrading?==<br />
<br />
* The E3D v6 hotend improves the print quality of the Velleman K8400.<br />
* The original hotend has a design flaw which cause overheating due a bad placement of the thermistor.<br />
* Less jamming and maintenance.<br />
* Heat up your nozzle much faster.<br />
<br />
== Materials we need ==<br />
<br />
===1 Tools===<br />
* 2,5mm hex wrench<br />
* 2,0mm hex wrench<br />
* 3,0mm hex wrench<br />
* Solder iron<br />
* Multimeter<br />
* Wire cutters and strippers<br />
* 3D printer<br />
<br />
===2 Materials===<br />
<br />
* E3D v6 metal only 1.75mm bowden[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Metal-Only/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Metal-Only], you can find it in the E3D-online.com store under 'v6 HotEnd Metal Parts Only - 1.75mm Universal'. <br />
* The original heater cartridge from Velleman (15V 33W) since E3D-online only provides 12V and 24V heater cartridges.<br />
* An 100K thermistor[http://e3d-online.com/Spares/100k-Ohm-NTC-Thermistor-Semitec], you can buy these separately from E3D-online.com under 'Spares and Extras'.<br />
* 30mm fan 12V [http://e3d-online.com/Spares/30x30x10mm-12v-DC-Fan] and the fan holder for the E3D v6 hotend [http://e3d-online.com/Spares/v6-Injection-Moulded-Fan-Duct]. These are also under 'Spares and Extras'.<br />
<br />
You can also buy a complete kit[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden] since we use everything from the kit except the heater cartridge.<br />
<br />
* M3x30 bolt (3 pcs)<br />
* M3x60 bolt (4 pcs)<br />
* M3x15 bolt (3 pcs)<br />
* M3 ring (3 pcs)<br />
* M3 nut (7 pcs)<br />
* M2.5 nut (2 pcs)<br />
* M2.5 bolt (2 pcs)<br />
* STL's from Thingiverse (see installation)<br />
* 12V separate power supply (I used a 12V@15A power supply to power also my heated bed)<br />
<br />
===Installation===<br />
<br />
1. Download the following STL's from Thingiverse.com:<br />
* E3Dv6 mount for Velleman K8400 [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:750821]<br />
* Endstop extender [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1341972]<br />
<br />
2. Print the parts for the E3D mount in ABS (or another type of temperature resistant plastic). This is absolutely necessary since ABS is more temperature resistant then PLA. Use enough infill because it has to be strong!<br />
<br />
3. When your prints are done, remove the Velleman hotend from your K8400 printer. Keep the parts somewhere safe because you never know if you need some of them later in the future.<br />
<br />
4. Disassemble the hotend mount in order to install the printed parts.<br />
<br />
5. Install the new parts. You need the 4 M3x60 bolts and 4 M3 nuts as a replacement for the original M3 bolts. You can reuse the M3 nuts that were provided by Velleman if you wish.<br />
<br />
6. Put the hotend mount back in his place and align the belts. A good align guide can be found here[http://www.k8xxx-3dprinters.crimed.be/w/index.php?title=XY-Carriage_Alignment]. Take your time for this step!<br />
<br />
7. Test your K8400 to make sure the X- and Y-axis can move freely.<br />
<br />
8. Assemble the E3D v6 hotend as instructed on the E3D documentation wiki[http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly]. <br />
<br />
'''We use the original Velleman heater cartridge since the motherboard can't handle the current from the E3Dv6 12V heater cartridges.'''<br />
<br />
9. Install the E3D v6 hotend by fasten it with 3 M3 nuts, 3 M3x30 bolts and 3 M3 rings.<br />
<br />
10. Connect the heater cardtidge, thermistor and 25mm fan to the electronic board.<br />
<br />
11. Connect the 30mm 12V from the E3D to a separate 12V power supply. I also use this power supply to power my heated bed.<br />
<br />
12. Heat up your E3D v6 to fast the nozzle even more as instructed in the E3D assemble guide (step 8).<br />
<br />
13. The 30 mm fan will collide against the Y-axis belt when you try to home your K8400 VERTEX printer. In order to avoid that you should install the endstop extender that you printed before.<br />
<br />
14.The Velleman firmware has some serious configurations flaws when using a E3D v6 hotend. I made some modifications to the original firmware in order to use the E3D v6 hotend on the K8400 VERTEX printer. This version supports only one extruder head.<br />
<br />
You can install it by downloading it from here:<br />
Download the modified firmware here[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1341972]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''And follow these instructions (provided by Velleman) under 'CHANGING/UPLOADING THE FIRMWARE':'''<br />
<br />
<br />
Instructions[http://manuals.velleman.eu/article.php?id=31]<br />
<br />
15. The original Velleman hotend has a 0,35 mm nozzle, however the standard E3D nozzle is 0,40 mm so we have to change that in Repetier-Host. <br />
Go to 'Printer Settings' → 'Extruder' tab → 'Diameter' → write '0.40' → close the dialog.<br />
<br />
16. Since we have changed the firmware we can tweak also our slicer settings. You can download here my Cura slicer settings for the E3D v6 hotend:<br />
Download the new Cura settings here[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1341972]<br />
<br />
<br />
Happy printing with your brand new E3D v6 hotend!</div>Danhttps://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_on_Velleman_K8400&diff=6148E3D-v6 on Velleman K84002016-05-26T10:06:08Z<p>Dan: Created page with "Installation guide for the E3D v6 hotend on the Velleman K8400 VERTEX 3D printer ==Why upgrading?== * The E3D v6 hotend improves the print quality of the Velleman K8400. * T..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Installation guide for the E3D v6 hotend on the Velleman K8400 VERTEX 3D printer<br />
<br />
==Why upgrading?==<br />
<br />
* The E3D v6 hotend improves the print quality of the Velleman K8400.<br />
* The original hotend has a design flaw which cause overheating due a bad placement of the thermistor.<br />
* Less jamming and maintenance.<br />
* Heat up your nozzle much faster.<br />
<br />
== Materials we need ==<br />
<br />
===1 Tools===<br />
* 2,5mm hex wrench<br />
* 2,0mm hex wrench<br />
* 3,0mm hex wrench<br />
* Solder iron<br />
* Multimeter<br />
* Wire cutters and strippers<br />
* 3D printer<br />
<br />
===2 Materials===<br />
<br />
* E3D v6 metal only 1.75mm bowden[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Metal-Only/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Metal-Only], you can find it in the E3D-online.com store under 'v6 HotEnd Metal Parts Only - 1.75mm Universal'. <br />
* The original heater cartridge from Velleman (15V 33W) since E3D-online only provides 12V and 24V heater cartridges.<br />
* An 100K thermistor[http://e3d-online.com/Spares/100k-Ohm-NTC-Thermistor-Semitec], you can buy these separately from E3D-online.com under 'Spares and Extras'.<br />
* 30mm fan 12V [http://e3d-online.com/Spares/30x30x10mm-12v-DC-Fan] and the fan holder for the E3D v6 hotend [http://e3d-online.com/Spares/v6-Injection-Moulded-Fan-Duct]. These are also under 'Spares and Extras'.<br />
<br />
You can also buy a complete kit[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden] since we use everything from the kit except the heater cartridge.<br />
<br />
* M3x30 bolt (3 pcs)<br />
* M3x60 bolt (4 pcs)<br />
* M3x15 bolt (3 pcs)<br />
* M3 ring (3 pcs)<br />
* M3 nut (7 pcs)<br />
* M2.5 nut (2 pcs)<br />
* M2.5 bolt (2 pcs)<br />
* STL's from Thingiverse (see installation)<br />
* 12V separate power supply (I used a 12V@15A power supply to power also my heated bed)<br />
<br />
===Installation===<br />
<br />
1. Download the following STL's from Thingiverse.com:<br />
* E3Dv6 mount for Velleman K8400 [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:750821]<br />
* Endstop extender [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1341972]<br />
<br />
2. Print the parts for the E3D mount in ABS (or another type of temperature resistant plastic). This is absolutely necessary since ABS is more temperature resistant then PLA. Use enough infill because it has to be strong!<br />
<br />
3. When your prints are done, remove the Velleman hotend from your K8400 printer. Keep the parts somewhere safe because you never know if you need some of them later in the future.<br />
<br />
4. Disassemble the hotend mount in order to install the printed parts.<br />
<br />
5. Install the new parts. You need the 4 M3x60 bolts and 4 M3 nuts as a replacement for the original M3 bolts. You can reuse the M3 nuts that were provided by Velleman if you wish.<br />
<br />
6. Put the hotend mount back in his place and align the belts. A good align guide can be found here[http://www.k8xxx-3dprinters.crimed.be/w/index.php?title=XY-Carriage_Alignment]. Take your time for this step!<br />
<br />
7. Test your K8400 to make sure the X- and Y-axis can move freely.<br />
<br />
8. Assemble the E3D v6 hotend as instructed on the E3D documentation wiki[http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly]. <br />
<br />
'''We use the original Velleman heater cartridge since the motherboard can't handle the current from the E3Dv6 12V heater cartridges.'''<br />
<br />
9. Install the E3D v6 hotend by fasten it with 3 M3 nuts, 3 M3x30 bolts and 3 M3 rings.<br />
<br />
10. Connect the heater cardtidge, thermistor and 25mm fan to the electronic board.<br />
<br />
11. Connect the 30mm 12V from the E3D to a separate 12V power supply. I also use this power supply to power my heated bed.<br />
<br />
12. Heat up your E3D v6 to fast the nozzle even more as instructed in the E3D assemble guide (step 8).<br />
<br />
13. The 30 mm fan will collide against the Y-axis belt when you try to home your K8400 VERTEX printer. In order to avoid that you should install the endstop extender that you printed before.<br />
<br />
14.The Velleman firmware has some serious configurations flaws when using a E3D v6 hotend. I made some modifications to the original firmware in order to use the E3D v6 hotend on the K8400 VERTEX printer. This version supports only one extruder head.<br />
<br />
You can install it by downloading it from here:<br />
Download the modified firmware here<br />
<br />
<br />
'''And follow these instructions (provided by Velleman) under 'CHANGING/UPLOADING THE FIRMWARE':'''<br />
<br />
<br />
Instructions[http://manuals.velleman.eu/article.php?id=31]<br />
<br />
15. The original Velleman hotend has a 0,35 mm nozzle, however the standard E3D nozzle is 0,40 mm so we have to change that in Repetier-Host. <br />
Go to 'Printer Settings' → 'Extruder' tab → 'Diameter' → write '0.40' → close the dialog.<br />
<br />
16. Since we have changed the firmware we can tweak also our slicer settings. You can download here my Cura slicer settings for the E3D v6 hotend:<br />
Download the new Cura settings here<br />
<br />
<br />
Happy printing with your brand new E3D v6 hotend!</div>Dan