Difference between revisions of "BigBox Printer main assemblies: Step By Step Assembly Process"

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(Z-Axis assembly)
(Print Head/Carriage Assembly.)
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Insert long 1.7m cable into motor at the rear  (img). Cable tie as shown.  
 
Insert long 1.7m cable into motor at the rear  (img). Cable tie as shown.  
 
Gather the other wiring from this carriage, and while holding the ends together wrap them lightly in electrical tape. [this is just temporary to feed cables through the cable chain. Electrical tape is preferred as it leaves no residue, but other e.g. masking tape will also work.]
 
Gather the other wiring from this carriage, and while holding the ends together wrap them lightly in electrical tape. [this is just temporary to feed cables through the cable chain. Electrical tape is preferred as it leaves no residue, but other e.g. masking tape will also work.]
Feed this through the braided sleeving (1.5m length, supplied pre-cut to length).Take a length of heat shrink and feed thisover the sleeving to ‘print head end’. Shrink it into place covering the end of the braided sleeving (img) with a heat source, carefully, leaving a good 3 or 4 inches  of wiring clear at this end. (A lighter will be sufficient, but soldering iron or similar is ideal IF you have one already).
+
Feed this through the braided sleeving (1.5m length, supplied pre-cut to length).Take a length of heat shrink and feed thisover the sleeving to ‘print head end’. Shrink it into place covering the end of the braided sleeving (img) with a heat source, carefully, leaving a good 7-10 centimetres of wiring clear at this end. (A lighter will be sufficient, but soldering iron or similar is ideal IF you have one already).
  
 
Insert 4 x cable ties into holes at top of print head as shown.
 
Insert 4 x cable ties into holes at top of print head as shown.

Revision as of 12:26, 18 December 2015

Contents

Rear Frame Assembly

Components

Printed Parts

Sub-assemblies

Assembly Guide

  1. Wiring
Useful videos

X & Y-Axis assembly part 1

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Exploded drawing


Sub-assemblies

Link to sub assemblies needed in this section

Assembly Guide

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  1. With 532mm bar horizontal on worktop, insert right end of bar into 36tooth pulley and add the GT loop around it (loosely – it won't fit for now, just needs to be in the correct place).
  2. Add the rear right Y axis bracket. (see photo).
  3. Add single nylon washer.
  4. Add 20 tooth 8mm bore pulley.
  5. On left side of the bar, add rear left Y-axis bracket.
  6. Add single nylon washer.
  7. Add 20-tooth 8mm bore pulley.

Put the printer on its back with the topside facing towards you, overhanging the bench slightly. Keep pulley on your LEFT side ie reverse the bar, positioning carefully to ensure all items remain in place.

Line up with the 2 holes on each end and mount the brackets very loosely, screwing in from below until they are threaded within the brackets.

If there is no resistance to the screws, check the M4 square nuts you fitted in stage 2 are still in the Y-axes brackets.

Stand your BigBox up again.

Tighten the screws a little more but not over-tight.

Now, turn BigBox to face you for the next step.


  1. wiring
Useful videos

X-Carriage Assembly

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Exploded drawing


Sub assembled components needed

List of components needed from previous sections

Assembly

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Exploded drawing

Add one bearing to each 484mm bar and roughly center it. Insert one end of each bar into left-side x-axis assembly. Affix X-axis motor assembly to other end. Insert both 384mm bars into each x-carriage bearing. Take X carriage and carefully rest it in place at the top of your BigBox. Insert rear ends of the shorter bars into Y-axis rear brackets (some small adjustments may be needed to make the bars fit correctly).


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Exploded drawing

Slide Left-Front brackets onto rod. Do the same with Right-Front brackets. Now complete front frame attachment, using the M3 18mm screws, M3 square nuts and frame lugs, as before (in stage 1). Once front frame is secured, attach the carriage to it with the top two using the M4 screws and lock washers.


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Exploded drawing

Facing the front of your BigBox, insert a screw with lock washer through the 'Belt Tensioner' hole (marked). Thread screw through square nut in belt idler, but leave a finger gap between idler and frame. It will feel loose. That's fine!

Repeat on other side.



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Possibly a video?


Belts and Motors - X and Y

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Exploded drawing of X motor attachment


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Maybe a photo too

Cut 2 x 690mm lengths from one end of the GT2 belt. Using one of these lengths, take the ridged side up and insert one end into the rear slow of the X-carriage motor bracket (see image). Insert along outside of the bracket and then slide the belt in until the teeth are holding it in place. Take 8mm grub screw and insert in hole on right side of X carriage bracket. (The holes in the frame allow access. Centre the carriage if you're having trouble finding the right place. Screw in the grub screw but do not over-tighten. (It will lie under the belt, not over). Thread upwards through rear axis bracket (under pulley at back). Lead the belt through the channel under the bearing in x motor carriage, and then pass downwards through the idler pulley at front of the printer. Bring back to x-carriage, forming a loop. Attach this end of belt into carriage in the same way, securing with grub screw. If belt seems too short, loosen the belt idler very slightly with the 'Belt Tensioner' screw. Repeat on opposite side with the second 690mm length.

Ensure the socket on your motor is facing the right side of your BigBox frame. Align and fix with the screws and lock washers.


X-Carriage Assembly

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Exploded drawing


Assembly

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Exploded drawing


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Exploded drawing

Mount the hotEnd bracket (left of image) onto the bearings on the X carriage – the 'legs' should be at the rear and facing down.


Push the 10mm screws into position on the printed bearing clamps, to loosely position them before mounting to carriage.
Bearing Clamps

Screws to X carriage, with 'longer' end of the clamps pointing downwards. Fasten firmly, taking care not to over-tighten.

Using:

  • X carriage belt tensioner (PP)
  • M3 square nut
  • 1 x M3 18mm screw.
  • 1 x M4 8mm grub screw
  • 22 tooth 5mm bore pulley
  • GT2 belt
  1. Insert M3 square nut into the belt tensioner.
  2. Affix the 18mm screw lightly, screwing into the belt tensioner by just a few mm.
  3. Take this belt tensioner assembly and add to the X carriage (see image).

belt tensioner inserted

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Exploded drawing


Take one end of your GT2 belt, slot around the belt tensioner and push into place firmly (use pliers if needed). Ensure smooth side of belt is facing outwards. grub screw fixing belt

Using the 8mm grub screw, fix into position – see image. Ensure belt is fully pushed into place first.

Thread belt around end X carriage mount, back through slot in centre carriage and towards right hand side of your BigBox. x carriage belt threaded on pulley

Insert 22-tooth pulley onto right hand carriage mount, teeth-end down (see image. Again, thread belt around this, from right to left, and back to centre. Cut to length so that the end fits all the way into the centre slot.


Adjust the 20-tooth pulley up/down slightly* to level it, then tighten with the pre-installed grub screws.


Assembly cont..

Using:

  • End stop cable (coiled, black and yellow with relay on end)
  • 2 x M2 square nuts
  • 2 x M2 12 mm screws
  1. Insert the square nuts into x-carriage motor assembly part (right hand side).
  2. Using the M2 12mm screws, attach relay/micro-switch to motor assembly – see image.
    attaching relay microswitch on BigBox


Push the other end of the cable through hole from top to bottom (see image) and then move on to next stage, leaving cable loose for now.
feed other end of microstop cable downwards through hole as shown


Belts and Motors - Y axis

  • 400 step motor
  • Y axis motor mount (PP)
  • 4 x M3 10mm screws
  • 4 x M3 lock washers
  • L-shaped cork pad (pre-cut) to match the motor mount.
  • 3 x M4 nuts
  • 3 x M4 20mm screws
  • 3 x M4 lock washers
  • 1 x 16-tooth 5mm bore pulley
secure the motor mount to motor with the M3 screws, adding a lock washer to each. Affix cork pad to the mount, pressing down firmly. Slide the 16-tooth pulley on, keeping the assembly horizontal.
Insert the M4 nuts into the slots on Y motor bracket.
Align this motor bracket assembly inside your BigBox, to the rear-right of frame, hooking the belt loop over right-hand pulley – see image. Y axis motor assembly.png
Secure, finger tight, onto back frame panel with the remaining M4 20mm screws and lock washers.

--N.B. it's worth remembering that the final stage of the build will be tightening and tuning your BigBox: don't worry about getting the correct tension on the belt right now.

Frame Brackets

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Picture of cable management printed parts

Components:
  • 3 x Cable Conduits (printed parts)
  • 3 x M3 25mm screws
  • 3 x M3 nuts

Screw into the rear right of printer frame, with conduit on interior. (See image.) Tighten the conduits firmly.

[[File:Cable_conduit_y_axis.png|thumb]


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Exploded drawing


Back Spine Attachment

  • Printed Parts - Spine Parts (x5)
    Parts for back spine.png
  • Printed Parts - Y motor cable brackets (x2)
  • 10 x M4 16mm screws
  • 10 x M4 hex nuts
  • 4 x M3 20mm screws
  • 4 x M3 nuts
Screw spine onto back with the M4 screws and nuts (see image).


Place your BigBox on its side.


Spool Holder Brackets Attachment

You’ll need

  • 2 x brackets
  • 6 x M3 20mm screws
  • 4 x M4 washers
  • 4 x 634ZZ bearings
(double all the above for BigBoxDual)
BigBox spool holder brackets attached.png
With the back of BigBox facing you, attach the spool holder brackets on right-hand side as per image, with the bearings between the two washers.
Fasten into place with the 20mm screws.

For Dual, repeat on left side.


X-Axis Motor Cable

  • Motor Cable (1.7m pre-twisted).
  • electrical tape/masking tape/similar
  • 80cm length of braided sleeving
  • 2 lengths of black heat shrink
  • Lighter/heat gun/ soldering iron/similar. (A lighter is perfectly effective.)

Assembly:

Plug motor cable into right side of motor. Holding this and the black/yellow cable at the motor end, run them together to find other end, and hold together at furthest end with tape.
Plug motor cable y axis.png
Insert wire through the 'mating end' of motor connector for drag chain.


Push all the way through, bending roughly into position (you don't need to affix yet) (see image).
Loop up and over top for now.
Position cable y axis.png


Using the braided sleeving 80cm length, feed the loose wires (still taped together) from the end of this drag chain through until nearly at the end, then insert this end through 1 length of heat shrink, working it over the sleeving all the way to the top end.
Heat shrink y axis sleeving.png
Shrink into place with your heat source, to cover top end of the sleeving and hold in place.


Feed cable through square hole at back right corner of BigBox, and through the 3 cable conduits you attached earlier.
  • Take care not to catch the heat shrink on the edges.*
Finally, feed through the hole directly below conduits, and pull wires through into the base area. Leave loose for now.

Drag Chain Anchor - Rear X axis

  • 2 x M3 20mm screws
  • 2 x M3 nuts
  • M3 spanner

Hook into the last clip of cable chain… press into corner and secure with the M3 nuts.

Feed y axis cable at rear.png


Useful videos

Frame Top

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Tighten X axis bearing clamps


Now attach the top of the printer

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Picture of top attachment


Components

You'll need:

  • Frame Part - 'Frame Top'
  • Printed Part - 'Dock Bracket'
  • 5 x M3 micro-barbs
  • 4 x M3 10mm screws
Frame top with microbarbs.png

Insert micro-barbs under the print-head dock (i.e. turn frame top over and insert from underneath. (See image.) Turn frame top over to correct side facing up, and affix dock bracket (printed part) with the 10mm screws. Tighten snugly.







Inner Base assembly

First, get:

  • 60mm exhaust fan
  • 4 x M4 20mm screws
  • 4 x M4 half nuts
Position the fan inside the printer base, with

the labelled side against the frame, as seen here, & the cable to the right. Base 60mm fan positioning.png


Affix with the screws and half nuts, screwing in from the exterior.
Tighten.
base fan in position

Next:

  • Frame Parts: 5 x Frame Supports
  • Frame assembly fixings (the frame lugs, m4 20mm screws and m4 square nuts)
  • Electrical tape or similar


Affix frame supports under inner base
Keeping your BigBox on its side, attach the 5 frame supports to base,

as seen here. using Frame Fixings.

Once fixed in place, add an additional frame lug and square nut at the other end of each frame support, carefully taping tightly into correct position, holding them in place for fixing properly to base unit later on.


Next:

  • 2 x Z-axis motors (the smaller ‘609’ motors)
  • 2 x cork buffers, supplied pre-cut to size.
  • 8 x M3 10mm screws
  • 8 x M3 lock washers
Firmly affix cork buffers to the motors, aligning holes carefully.
remove backing from the cork buffers and affix to your Z axis motors
motors with cork fixed on.
Attach both motors between the frame supports, with the extruding cable sockets facing inward/towards the central hatch of your BigBox.


Next:

  • Printed Parts: 8 x Z-bar bottom brackets (4 inner, 4 outer)
  • 8 x M3 12mm screws
  • 8 x M3 half nuts
Add to Inner Base panel (see image) with ‘hole side’ up,
affixing with screws & half nuts.
Z bar base brackets, attached to inner frame base

Printhead Assembly

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Exploded drawing of extruder and x-axis coming together


You'll need:

  • 'Extruder' sub assembly'
  • 4 x M4 16mm screws
Screw into position with the ‘prongs’ to the rear and right of BigBox, as seen.
BigBox Printhead: 'prongs' at rear
In your sub-assembly you will have inserted M4 lock washers in the extruder unit base. You’ll now be using these for resistance to pull the parts tight. If you find there is no resistance once screwed in, check underneath the extruder to ensure the square nuts are all still in place.

Next... get:

  • Cable bracket for extruder (*printed part* with coupling pre-fitted)
  • 2 x 35mm M3 screws
  • 1 x 25mm M3 screw
  • 1 x 10mm M3 screw
Add bracket to Extruder Top – see image. Loosely add screws:
Top left = 10mm. Bottom left = 25mm. Bottom right = 35mm screw.

Next

  • Extruder Motor – (400 step, large)
Hold motor to rear of extruder top, with its cable socket facing down, and affix by tightening all screws from previous step.


Now you’ll need:

  • Idler Spring Tensioner
  • 1 x M4 30mm screw
  • 1 x M4 washer
  • 1 x compression spring
  • 1 x M4 square nut


Assemble components as per image to make your idler spring.

Insert black tubing into the hole on your Idler Spring Tensioner. This will be quite a snug fit.
Add the idler spring tensioner assembly to your Extruder Top, screwing into place with the 35mm M3 screw. As you can see in these images, the spring assembly fits into the extruder Top, with the head of the screw slotting into one end of the Idler Spring Tensioner.

X Carriage endstop

What you'll need:

  • End Stop Cable with endstop attached
  • 2 x M2 12mm screws

Cut off the central solder tab. It’s unnecessary for your BigBox (and gets in the way).

Fold the wires to the right
Then take your end stop cable and insert into left front side of extruder carriage.
Align with the holes and screw into place with the 2 x M2 12mm screws.

Assembly of the E3D HotEnd.

    • There are 2 options at this point: lite6 assembly (lite kits), or V6 assembly (Pro and Dual kits). The only major variation for build purposes is the lite6 has its heat break integrated, so there is no heat break to add and no thermal paste is required.

From your extruder box:

  • V6 heat sink
  • V6 heat break
  • V6 heater block
  • thermal compound paste
  • V6 Fan duct (blue injection moulded)

Add thermal paste to heatbreak (desc?!) and screw into the heat sink, link so. Attach heater block to other end of heat break (nb use PT100 specific guidance) Angle heater cartridge as per image with PT00 on same side. Ensuring a clean cut, get 62mm of your PTFE 1.75mm, and insert this into the heat sink. You may want to use a craft knife to get a really flat cut on the end of the tubing. Then, insert this assembly into hotEnd carriage system, with care, holding the hotend by the main heat sink and not by the heater block (the heat break can bend under excessive pressure so do not push in with the heater block itself). Take care not to damage the ‘arms’ of the carriage. The heat sink is fully inserted when the bottom of it is flat in line with the mount. Next, gently tighten the angular screws (img) ensuring the head stays parallel with the X axis.

Fan Duct.

You’ll need:

  • Fan 30x30x10
  • Fan Duct (Blue for Pro/Dual, Red for Lite)
  • 4x ‘plastic’ screws that come with V6 kit
Holding fan, with wire at bottom of duct (img), screw together. (NB the ‘stickered’ side should face the duct. If it faces out/is still visible after assembly, this means your fan will run in reverse).
Clip onto the heatsink with fan facing the front of your BigBox i.e. aligned with the heater cartridge.

IR sensor cable

Plug cable in at rear (img). Cable tie the fan cables, ensuring correct side of rods so there’s no interference with the end stop switch. Repeat – now cable tie the IR sensor cable as image (same). Repeat – now same with heater cartridge etc (img). ‘’Leave a little extra length to allow for swapping back and forth with Volcano heater block – which takes a little more depth than the V6 heater block.’’

BASE assembly (inc. electronics)

Get: 8x ‘feet’ (Printed Parts) 8x M3 10mm screws 8x M3 microbarbs

Screw feet in using the M3x10mm screws – wider side of hole facing out/down (img). Insert microbarbs in base on the ‘text’ side, as image: Turn base over. Insert 4x ‘mount points’ for Rumba in holes labelled ‘1’, and PT100 holes (the PT100 microbarbs are inserted on ‘reverse’ side as img).

Pi Only

Get 4xM3 microbarbs – insert into holes marked ‘RaspPi DcDc Converter’. 4 x M2.5 microbarbs thru the ‘Pi’ holes – on reverse. (img)

Turn Base Over.

Raspberry Pi. Open the Pi box, remove Pi board from box but leave the microSD card IN the box for now – you’ll need it later.

Get:

  • 4 x 5mm nylon spacers (img)
  • 4 x M3 12mm screws

Place Pi onto the spacers, positioned on base board, and secure with 12mm screws. DC/DC Converters (again only for Pi installs.)

  • 4 x M2 12mm screws
  • 4x nylon spacers

Mount DC converter with screw terminals facing inward as shown.

PT100 Amp mounting.

  • PT100 amplifier board.
  • 4 x M3 12mm screws
  • 4 x 5mm nylon spacers

Bed Assembly.

Bed Parts (Frame parts – top and bottom, bed spacer parts and bed corners [lg and sml] and Printed Parts – reassembled)

  • 2 x brass nuts for lead screws
  • 8 x M3 10mm screws
  • 4 x M3 20mm screws
  • 4 x M3 lock nuts
  • 12 x M3 16mm screws
  • 12 x M3 hex half nuts
  • 20 x M3 lock washers
Using the 10mm screws and lock washers, affix brass nuts to the bed – top part of frame (img), on both sides.

To assemble the bed corners:

Centre the lock nut in ‘large corner frame part’, black part facing up. (img – ensure correct side is showing).
Add small corner part.
Affix with the 16mm screws, lock washers and hex ½ nuts (x3 on each corner).
From other wise, insert 20mm screw in centre of corner assembly, and tighten into place.
Repeat for each corner.

Next.. (bed continued)

Get something to rest the ‘bottom frame part’ on (face down). Img.
Put the fittings in x8 img
Get the 4 preassambled HB corners. Inserts as so (img) alinging the holes to fit snugly. Press the bearings down until they align flush with the top of the bed.

Next you’ll need:

  • 4 x self tapping screws
  • M3 lock washers
  • M3 hex ½ nuts
  • M3 35mm screws
  • Double-ended drag chain
  • Printed Parts x2– Drag Chain Anchor for Z-axis (img)
Unclip ends from drag chain
Use self tapping screws and attach ends to the printed parts.

NB TIPS AND TRICKS: Run small allen key or similar through HB corners (printed parts) to remove any remnants of plastic.

Screws all the M35mm screws from top to bottom, in positions as shown, using the lock washers and hex ½ nuts.

If the central screws are overtighted the bed frame will start to deform so take care at this point.

Heated Bed

You’ll need:

  • Heated bed
  • Heated bed wiring loom
  • 4 x 50mm brass stand-offs
  • 2 x 35mm screws
  • 2 x lock washers
  • 2 x hex ½ nuts
Screw the brass stand-offs straight onto the screws as shown, leaving approx 2mm gap at base.
Feed wiring loom down from the end that will attach to Heated Bed Drag Chain anchor. Leave 170mm spare at the end with plug on. Img.
Attached HB Drag Chain anchor, ensuring it bends the correct way (see img). Insert in HB side, as shown here.
Affix with 2 x 35mm screws, 2 x lock washers and 2 x hex ½ nuts.
Heated bed – fit the cable. (?? Check this)
  • 4 x M3 8mm screws
  • 8 x M3 flat washers
Add 1 x washer to each screw, and then carefully place a washer on each brass spaced in turn; insert screws on each corner, and tighten – so that each corner has a washer touching the heated bed on each side.
This is basically the heated bed assembly done.

Base assembly continued

Adding Power Supply

  • Power Supply unit
  • 4 x M3 12mm screws
  • 4 x nylon spacers

Attach to Power Supply marked section of base board.

Wiring preparation Insert 4 x cable ties into base as shown. Do not close yet. These are to hold wiring in place.

Pi Wires

  • NB Do not insert microSD card into your Raspberry Pi yet.

Add micro USB cable to join Pi board and DC/DC converter. Power cable for Pi – add this to Rumba board. The red wire needs to be on the outer edge of the board. (img.) Attached to DC/DC converter. Red is +. Black is -. Tighten into position with a Phillips screwdriver/posidrive. Add the USB ‘A to mini B’, from Rumba board to Pi board. (img.) Affix with the cable ties, tidying up ends once tightened.

PT100 amp cable

Attach to Rumba and Pt100 amp board, ensuring the wiring is correctly positioned (img). 2 x Power Cables. Insert wires into the screw terminals (img) and tighten down. Feed cable under the Rumbe board and cable tie into position, ensuring there is no pull on the terminals. Taking 1 x power cable, affix its fork terminals to the power supply unit. Red to +, Black to -. As shown (img)

IEC

Get:

  • M3 16mm screws x2
  • 2 x M3 lock washers
  • 2 x M3 hex ½ nuts

Taking this IEC assembly, hold it in place within the base of the Frame Assembly, and add ‘Printed Part IEC Rear Cover’ by threading it over the wiring. Add cable tie loosely as shown. Fix to frame using the 16mm screws, lock washers and hex ½ nuts.

For Pi Only…

  • RJ45 panel mount cable
  • 2x M3 10mm screws

Attach cable as shown. (img) Non-Pi

  • USB attachment
  • 2 x M3 12mm screws with M3 hex half nuts

Attach as shown. (img.)


Print Head/Carriage Assembly.

Insert long 1.7m cable into motor at the rear (img). Cable tie as shown. Gather the other wiring from this carriage, and while holding the ends together wrap them lightly in electrical tape. [this is just temporary to feed cables through the cable chain. Electrical tape is preferred as it leaves no residue, but other e.g. masking tape will also work.] Feed this through the braided sleeving (1.5m length, supplied pre-cut to length).Take a length of heat shrink and feed thisover the sleeving to ‘print head end’. Shrink it into place covering the end of the braided sleeving (img) with a heat source, carefully, leaving a good 7-10 centimetres of wiring clear at this end. (A lighter will be sufficient, but soldering iron or similar is ideal IF you have one already).

Insert 4 x cable ties into holes at top of print head as shown. Lead the cable over back of your BigBox, and tie in place. Leave a little slack for adding a Volcano/(Jet Pack add-on).

Repeat this on the right hand side. (Gather all wires; tape together; feed through the other 1.5m braided sleeving; heat shrink over print head end, ½ over the sleeving.) Insert PTFE tubing in top round hole of printhead assembly. (img.) Turn the printer round to have the rear facing you.

Feed the 2 x sleeved cables through the centre of spine/rear cable brackets. Feed the PTFE tubing through the right-hand-side holes in the spine/cable brackets, as shown. (For Dual, this will be repeated on left side as well.) Feed cable ties into position (img) but do not tie yet.

Y motor cable (img) Attach, with blue wire at top. Add the shorter (80cm) length of braided sleeving. Add heat shrink to printer end and shrink into place over sleeving as shown. Only add heat shrink to the top end for now. Feed through cable times, as shown. Then, move the print head to furthest point from it’s docking position, i.e. the far front left of the printer. Ensuring there is no pull on the cables, group all together and tie to the frame Printed Parts as shown.

Add heat shrink to Y-axis motor cable end, and shrink into position ½ over sleeving end. Add a cable tie to hold this securely as the heat shrink may be too wide to fully hold. Next: VERY carefully, trim the ends from the other 2 x sleevings,so all ends are in approx the same position, ending roughly within the base support Frame Part (img). Do NOT cut the wires in the process! Repeat heat shrink with both. Feed all 3 through the central ‘base support’ (Frame Part).

Z axis Drag Chain anchor. (Printed Part.) (subassambled earlier)

  • 2x M3 20mm screws
  • 2x M3 hex ½ nuts

Fix to base. (img) Cable tie at Top of wiring ‘loop’, threading the tie through the sleeving so that it doesn’t slip, but tie v loosely.

Next:

  • 2 x M3 12mm screws
  • 2 x M3 square nuts
  • 1 x M3 20mm screw
  • Printed Part: Y axis end-stop.

Insert and screw in the 20mm screw (not fully, into the side of the end-stop with no slots. (img) Push the M3 square nuts into the slots on other side. Using the 12 mm screw, affix the Printed Part to top/right/front corner of BigBox (img).

  • This 20mm screw acts as a contact point for the Y axis microswitch. Ensure contact is being made by sliding carriage forward to touch the screw. If it hits the Printed Part before the screw, loosen as necessary. (img.)

Next:

  • 2x aluminium couplers (remove from their packets)
  • Small item such as allen key for spacing.

Use e.g. allen key to space up from the base slightly. As shown. Fix the coupler in by tightening the lower grub screw (img), lining the grub screw onto the flat side of the motor shaft. On other side of coupler, tighen both pre-inserted M3 screws.

Next:

  • Pre-made Bed Assembly (link?)
  • 4 x Z axis rods
  • Printed Parts:’ Z axis bar ends & mid sections’. (img)
  • 8 x M3 12mm screws
  • 8 x M3 hex ½ nuts
Taking one Printed Part ‘Z-axis part’ with the smaller hole & lip, add it midway onto a Z-axis rod, with the ‘lip’ facing up. Fit the rod into one corner of the bed assembly, from top to bottom, and then align with the holes in top and base of frame. Push the Printed Part up the rod until it fits against the frame.

Insert the M3 12mm screws into the 4x Printed Parts ‘z axis tops’. (img) and fix into place (img).

  • TR8 Lead Screw
  • Printed part with hole (img)
Feed lead screw through centre side hole of Bed Assembly, and screw through the brass nut until approx half way through. Repeat on other side.
Thread both so they go into coupler holes on both sides, and screw down until the bed is lifted slightly, supported by the rods now. You can then remove the part/box you’ve been using to hold it in place.

Get:

  • 4 x M2 12mm screws
  • 4 x hex ½ nuts

Repeat, attaching the printed parts to frame part.

Now, measure the approx height of bed from the the base. It doesn’t matter what the height is particularly, as long as each side is the same. (We’ll adjust the bed level even more accurately later on.) If they’re very different simply adjust by turning the respective lead screw. Once level, find the higher grub screw in the couplers (at base of lead screws) and tighten these to fix the level.

Next Move the print head (by sliding on carriage) to the back left corner. Tip your BigBox on its left side, carefully. Feed the wires through central hole in base. Clip the drag chain onto its anchor. (img.) Then inside the base unit, feed wise along with the others in center frame part, and use cable tie to join all together as shown. (img.)

Spool Bracket Attachment:

  • 2 x 325mm rods (for spool holder carriage).
  • Spool Bracket (subassembled earlier – consisting of Frame and Printed Parts)

Tap both rods firmly into the spool bracket. (img.) Slot into position in base. (no fixings required.)

Cabeling continued

LCD cables

Plug in as so, and feed through center of base frame.

Z axis motor cables (x2)

  • Twist Black and Green together.
  • Repeat with Red and Blue.
Leave the last inch loose, and tape together (img).
Now, holding the loose ends of motor cable wires, get 2x green wires and twist the ends together. Repeat with each colour, matching them up as you go.
Fix by screwing into position on Rumba board. (As shown: Black; Green; Blue; Red.)

Attaching Base Board to Frame Assembly

Hold the frame as shown.

Plug the fork terminals of the fan wiring into the power supply unit. (Red= + Black= - ), feeding the wires under any that they cross over.
At this point it’s important to check the switch on the side of your power supply unit, and ensure it’s correct for your location. (230v etc)
Earth the power supply and connect the IEC fork terminals. Img.
Now, bring the frame and base together.

Pi Only

When frame nearly closed, attach the camera ribbon cable (img) to the Pi board, with terminals as shown.
Then, push fit the base to frame. (TIP: use the end of a small screwdriver or allen key to help feed the internal base frame supports into position.)
Attach the base to frame with a few frame lugs, M3 18mm screws and m3 square nuts. Only attach about ½ for now, until you’ve fully wired up and tested the electronics.


Connecting Wiring

Turn your BigBox so it’s upright and facing you.
Pull all the wires clear as so.

Plug in the Z motor

LCD ribbon cable:

Slide this under the Rumba board with case, then plug into their sockets as so.
Undo all the electrical/other tape used earlier for feeding wires through the sleeving. Take care not to break the connectors whilst doing so.

Heated Bed Wiring

Take the Red and Black (thick) wires which lead down from the heated bed, feed them under the Rumba board and then connect as shown, ensuring Red is + and Black is -. Next: HotEnd/heater cartridge wires (yellow) Pass under Rumba board. Fit into the E0 screw terminals in Rumba and fix into place. Img.

  • TIP: slightly flatten the ends with a pair of pliers to make them easier to insert into screw terminals.

PT100 Connection

Plug the PT100 sensor (silver wire) to PT100 amp board. Img.

Heated bed thermistor. (the thicker of the two Red & Black Paired Wires) Connect on left side of Rumba, on THB terminal. (img)

Fan wiring.

Get the thin Red/Black paired wire, and the Black/White paired wire. Feed both under the Rumba and connect to Fan0 and Fan1 as shown. (With Dual, you’ll need to remove the connectors from the second identical wiring, and attach to adjacent screw terminals. See here…) Next

Z-axis IR Probe wire (triple wire Yellow/Black/Red) and X end-stop wire (Yellow/Black). (TIP: Both these lead out from the same cable sleeving.) Plug the End Stop into ‘X-’ terminal. Get the Z axis IR probe wire and insert into ‘Z-’.

X axis motor cable. Y axis motor cable. Extruder cable. (all Black/Green/Red/Blue) X axis cable plugs into X axis terminal as so (TIP: to idtentify, it is in same cable sleeving as the Y axis end stop). Y axis (this is in its own sleeving) connects to Y axis terminal Extruder cable (this is in the sleeving along with PT100 and hotEnd cables) connectd to E0. See image.

Get:

  • Frame Parts – 1 x electronics cover
  • Printed Parts – 4 x electronics cover brackets
  • 4 x M3 10mm screws
  • 4 x M3 20mm screws
  • 4 x M3 hex ½ nuts
  • 1 x 50mm fan
  • 4 x M3 microbarbs

Add the 4 microbarbs to one side of the electronics cover, as shown. It doesn’t matter which side. Add the M3 10mm screws to corner brackets. Img. Add fan to the same side as the microbarbs, with fan label side showing (this ensures air will be pulled into the base). Screw in with the M3 20mm screws and hex ½ nuts. Tighten firmly.

Put the four corner brackets on, loosely, as shown. Plug 50mm fan wire into the end of terminal sequence with the wiring as shown. Now you can add the electronics cover. Don’t screw in yet as we’ll be tweaking bits soon.

Ooze Dock

Get:

  • Printed Parts (ooze bucket, ooze wiper)
  • Frame Parts – bucket attachments
  • Rubber strip
  • 2 x M3 12mm screws
  • 2 x M3 hex ½ nuts

Fit together as shown. Fit rubber strip into the ooze wiper, ensuring once inserted that the top level is horizontal.

  • 2 x M3 18mm screws
  • 2 x M3 flat washers (one on each)
  • 2 x frame lugs

Affix to the frame assembly as shown (image shown is for a Pro or Lite version. Dual bucket will be wider.) NB the addition of the flat washers is to ensure the frame lugs still fit with the ‘slot’ design used here rather than the smaller holes throughout the rest of the frame – enabling the ooze wiper to be height adjustable.

Pi Camera Assembly

Components

Printed Parts

Sub-assemblies

Assembly Guide

  1. Wiring
Useful videos

Base-To-Frame Assembly

Components

Printed Parts

Sub-assemblies

Assembly Guide

  1. Wiring
Useful videos

Final Wiring assembly

Components

Printed Parts

Sub-assemblies

Assembly Guide

  1. Electronics Cover
Useful videos

BigBox_Build_Manual