for up to date and improved documentation
for up to date and improved documentation
- 1 Assembly Guidelines
- 2 What's in the box
- 3 Nozzles
- 4 Engineering Drawings
Generic Assembly Guidelines
See E3D-v6 Assembly for the assembly instructions. Please follow them to the letter!
Printer Specific Guides
There is £25 store credit available for any guide produced which conforms to E3D's Acceptable Guide Standard.
- E3D-v6 on Airwolf HDx / HD2x
- E3D-v6 on Makibox
- E3D-v6 on Mendel 90
- E3D-v6 on Printrbot Simple Metal
- E3D-v6 on Prusa i3
- E3D-v6 on Renkforce RF1000
- E3D-v6 on Robo3D R1
- E3D-v6 on Rostock Max
- E3D-v6 on Solidoodle
- E3D-v6 on Solidoodle 2
- E3D-v6 on Solidoodle Press
- E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 1
- E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2
- E3D-v6 on Velleman k8200
- E3D-v6 on Velleman K8400
- E3D-v6 on XYZPrinting Davinci 1.0
- E3D-v6 on RepRap Fisher
What's in the box
- Metal Parts
- 1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)
- 1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak
- 1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)
- 1 x Aluminium Heater Block
- 1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor
- 1 x 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge
- 1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan
- 1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR
- 1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)
- 4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins
- 4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct
- 1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor
- 1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge
- 1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)
- Bowden Versions also Include
- 800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.
- 1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.
Which nozzle to choose?
General purpose, low cost, great for printing materials that don't have anything abrasive in them. Brass has a great balance of properties; thermally conductive, machines precisely and easily even with very small nozzles, doesn't corrode or pit so retains a smooth surface finish for cleanly laying down extruded filament.
Vulnerable to abrasive erosion by more exotic filaments like carbon-fibre filled materials, metal powder filled materials and glow in the dark. Can be damaged by nasty head crashes with things like bulldog clips and glass. Using a wire brush on a brass nozzle will cause wear over time.
Designed to resist the abrasion of materials filled with abrasive particles which act like liquid sandpaper on your nozzle. Carbon-fibre is a particularly abrasive and well known example for which these nozzles are ideal. Materials filled with metal powders can also be abrasive, as can glow in the dark pigments. Hardened steel nozzles are nearly impervious to wear and should last as long as your printer. Hardened steel nozzles are also very resilient to being damaged by things like crashing into glass, bulldog clips or getting mangled when you're too lazy to find the correct size 7mm spanner and use pliers instead, we know you do it. You can use a wire brush to clean a hardened nozzle without damaging it.
Hardened steel is somewhat less thermally conductive than brass, however in our testing this does not seem to have a noticeable impact on actual performance and print speed. Probably because the limiting factor is the conductivity of the filament, not the nozzle. Hardened nozzles are brittle, it's extremely hard to break one but if you do manage they crack rather than deforming. Hardened steel nozzles are so hard that they can score and damage even glass print surfaces if dragged across the surface with force.
These are for specific applications by popular request of certain customers, usually where there is a food or medical need and the other two alloys are not acceptable for regulatory reasons. We don't certify or make promises that these nozzles are suitable for these applications, as this is down to each users individual machine and process. Stainless is somewhat more abrasion and abuse resistant than brass, but not better than hardened. Stainless steel can be useful for some very odd chemically corrosive materials. Unless you have a specific need for stainless steel nozzles you're probably better off going for brass or hardened steel. Stainless is much less conductive than brass, less wear resistant than hardened steel.
These are the latest addition to the E3D ecosystem and provide an increased thermal conductivity and a reduction in the surface energy of the nozzle. This helps to keep it clean as plastic is much less likely to stick to it.
|# of Marks||Nozzle Size|
|2 on 1 face||0.15mm|
The new 0.15 nozzles have no markings for the first 1.75mm batch. The following nozzles will be supplied with 2 dots on one face. Specific guides to 0.15 nozzles can be found here:
To swap out a nozzle, you must follow this procedure - being careful not to burn yourself.
- Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages.
- Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor.
- Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block.
- Insert the new nozzle.
- Gripping the heater block tighten the nozzle. Do not apply any torque through the heat-break, they are fragile.
- Turn off the heat and allow the HotSide to cool.
- Re-tighten the heat-break into the HeatSink.
Please note that there has recently been a switch over to cartridge-style temperature sensors for ease of use and also enabling users to easily switch between thermistors, PT100s and thermocouples. For more information see our Temperature Sensor Documentation.
|HotEnd Version||E3D-v6 1.75mm Universal||E3D-v6 3mm Direct||E3D-v6 3mm Bowden|
|Fan Duct||E3D-v6 Fan Duct - Thingiverse|