Difference between revisions of "E3D-v6 on Ultimaker 2"
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− | + | [[File:Ultimaker Upgraded.jpeg|right|thumb|Ultimaker 2 with E3D Upgrade Kit.]] | |
+ | This page provides a full guide to installing the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit], including the [http://e3d-online.com/ E3D] [http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder Titan Extruder] and [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 V6 HotEnd] into your [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus Ultimaker 2 Series] 3D printer. | ||
− | This | + | This upgrade kit is compatible with: |
+ | *Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended | ||
+ | *Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+ | ||
− | ''' | + | This article is a companion to the [https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer '''Video Guide''' by Thomas Sanladerer] showing the upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section before beginning the installation process. |
− | + | '''Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling'''. | |
− | |||
− | + | This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution. | |
− | |||
− | = | + | =Requirements= |
+ | ===Upgrade Kit Contents=== | ||
+ | [[File:Kit Contents.jpeg|right|500px|Kit Contents]] | ||
+ | *[http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder E3D Titan Extruder] Kit | ||
+ | **3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor | ||
+ | **PTFE Bowden Tubing | ||
+ | **NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable | ||
+ | *[http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6 E3D V6 HotEnd] 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100 | ||
+ | **Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve | ||
+ | **V6 Nozzle Fun Pack | ||
+ | **V6 Silicone Sock | ||
+ | *[http://www.thingiverse.com Printed Parts] | ||
+ | **Four Layer Adaptor Body | ||
+ | **2x Fan Duct | ||
+ | **Bowden Depressor Tool | ||
+ | *Fixings | ||
+ | **12 x M3 Nut | ||
+ | **16 x M3 Washer | ||
+ | *[http://e3d-online.com/Edge E3D Edge] Sample Filament | ||
+ | *Allen Keys | ||
− | + | ===Tools Required=== | |
− | * | + | *Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench |
− | + | *Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver | |
− | * | + | *Allen Keys (Included) |
− | * | ||
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− | = | + | =Preparation= |
+ | #Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16955-changing-filament Changing Filament] but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage. | ||
+ | #Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle'''. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/'''0C''') is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. '''27C/'''0C). | ||
+ | #Factory reset your printer by scrolling to '''MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset''' and press '''YES'''. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off. [[File:UT_Reset.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Disconnect the power supply. | ||
− | + | =Installation= | |
− | File: | + | ==Printhead== |
− | File: | + | ===Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly=== |
− | < | + | #Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom. |
+ | #Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head, save the screws as we will use them later. [[File:Fan_Unscrew.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Remove the bowden clip from the bowden collet. [[File:Bowden_Clip_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Press down on the bowden collet with your fingernails or the bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out. [[File:Bowden_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later. [[File:Screw_Removal.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Carefully remove the rail from it's bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage. [[File:Rail_Removal_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly. [[File:Upper-Lower_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them. [[File:Middle_Section_Free.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | <!--#Clip any rails you removed back into their brackets. (Tom does this later)--> | ||
+ | #Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section. [[File:Cable_Disconnection.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
− | = | + | ===E3D Printhead Assembly=== |
+ | #Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown. [[File:Fan_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Carefully turn the printer onto its right side. | ||
+ | #Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown. [[File:Layer_1.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Pass the cables for the two part cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead, hold these in place for the next few steps. [[File:Fan_Cables.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as show then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown. [[File:Layer_2-3.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete. [[File:Layer_3.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing. [[File:Layer_4.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown. [[File:UT_Screw_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead, each connector should only go in one way. [[File:UT_Connectors.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench. [[File:UT_Nuts_1.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top. The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan_detailed.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides. [[File:UT_Nuts_2_Part_Fan.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing. [[File:UT_Nuts_3.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Insert the new bowden tube into it's collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead. [[File:UT_Braided_Sleeve.jpeg|centre|350px]] | ||
+ | #Remove the bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and bowden tube of the new loom as shown. [[File:UT_Bowden_Clips_Dual.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
− | + | ==Extruder== | |
− | + | ===Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly=== | |
− | + | #Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker. [[File:Motor_Cover_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]] | |
− | + | #It should now be possible to remove the motor cover. [[File:Motor_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | #Remove the bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver. [[File:UT_Extruder_Bowden_Clip.jpeg|centre|500px]] | |
− | + | #Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.[[File:UT_Extruder_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]] | |
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− | == | + | ===E3D Titan Installation=== |
+ | For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly E3D Titan Wiki Page]. | ||
+ | <!--We might have to modify this as we are supplying the pre assembled motor and pinion, maybe also worth explaining the motor wiring in this case--> | ||
− | + | #Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor. [[File:UT_Titan_Mount_1.jpeg|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | #Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Step_1.jpeg|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | #Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw. [[File:UT_Idler_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]] | |
− | + | #Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown. [[File:UT_Titan_Idler_Lever.jpeg|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | #Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan. [[File:UT_Titan_Short_Screw.jpeg|centre|500px]] | |
− | + | #Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use. [[File:UT_Titan_Longer_Screws.jpeg|centre|500px]] | |
− | [[File: | + | #Slide the bowden tube into the bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out. [[File:UT_Bowden_Tube_2.jpeg|centre|500px]] |
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− | == | + | ==Electronics== |
+ | ===Accessing the Control Board=== | ||
+ | #Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below. | ||
+ | #Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide. | ||
+ | #Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed. [[File:Electronics_Cover_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board. [[File:UT_Control_Board_Screws.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
− | + | ===Wiring=== | |
+ | #Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original heoad. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below. [[File:UT_wiring_Removal.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder. | ||
+ | #Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever. [[File:UT_wiring_insertion.jpeg|centre|800px]] | ||
+ | #Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer. [[File:UT_stepper_wire.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way. [[File:UT_E1.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around. [[File:UT_PT100.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around. [[File:UT_heater.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around. [[File:UT_part_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
+ | #Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board. [[File:UT_heatsink_fan.jpeg|centre|500px]] | ||
− | + | ===Finishing Up=== | |
− | + | #Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board. [[File:UT_Board_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | #Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover. [[File:UT_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | #Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it. [[File:UT_Motor_Cover_Replace.jpeg|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | This completes the physical part of the installation. | |
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− | == | + | =Firmware and Printing Settings= |
+ | You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly. To update the firmware, '''Cura Version 15''' or earlier is required. This can be downloaded [https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list here]. | ||
− | + | #Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer. | |
− | + | ##[[https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex E3D Ultimaker 2/2+ Firmware]] | |
− | + | <!--##[[File:Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2_Extended_Extended+.hex|E3D Ultimaker 2 Extended/Extended+ Firmware]]--> | |
− | + | #Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the [[#Preparation|Preparation]] section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet. | |
− | + | #Load up Cura as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the '''Machine''' menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to '''Machine''' > '''Add new machine...''' and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list. | |
− | + | #Navigate to the '''Machine''' menu, then click '''Install custom firmware...'''. Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up. [[File:UT_firmware_1.png|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | #Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link. [[File:UT_firmware_2.png|centre|800px]] | |
− | + | #When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head. | |
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− | + | ==Firmware Changes== | |
− | + | The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve wood, which can be found [http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 here].<br /> | |
− | =Firmware Changes= | ||
− | |||
These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /> | These updates are built upon a download from the [https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin official firmware] taken on 29th January 2016.<br /> | ||
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2: | There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2: | ||
− | #You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [ | + | #You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker/blob/master/Marlin_E3D_Ultimaker_2.hex download a previously compiled custom firmware] for this.<br /> |
− | #Here are the modified [ | + | #Here are the modified [https://github.com/e3donline/E3DUltimaker Marlin source files.] for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine. |
#If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits: | #If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits: | ||
Line 215: | Line 154: | ||
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder | // default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder | ||
− | #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200, | + | #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,417.5} |
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec) | #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec) | ||
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot. | #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot. | ||
− | |||
I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes: | I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes: | ||
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS | //#define EEPROM_SETTINGS | ||
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT | //#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT | ||
+ | This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value: | ||
+ | |||
+ | #define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150) | ||
+ | |||
+ | #define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75 | ||
+ | |||
+ | #define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length | ||
− | '''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations.<br /> | + | '''A Warning : '''The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations. Although the silicon sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.<br /> |
<div><ul> | <div><ul> | ||
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li> | <li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top"> [[File:Stop-Heater-Error.jpeg|thumb|left|The fabled "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error".]] </li> | ||
Line 239: | Line 187: | ||
// Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR); | // Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR); | ||
− | = | + | This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer! |
− | + | ||
− | + | ==E3D Edge Filament== | |
− | + | The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways: | |
− | + | ||
− | + | Download the [[File:MATERIAL.TXT|E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile]] and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD''' on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list. | |
− | + | ||
− | + | If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section. | |
− | + | ||
− | + | ==Recommended Cura Settings== | |
− | + | This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle): | |
+ | |||
+ | '''Quality''' | ||
+ | *Layer Height: 0.25mm | ||
+ | *Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm | ||
+ | *Line Width: 0.48 | ||
+ | '''Shell''' | ||
+ | *Wall thickness: 1.2 | ||
+ | *Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75 | ||
+ | *Horizontal Expansion: 0 | ||
+ | '''Infill''' | ||
+ | *Infill Density: 25% | ||
+ | *Infil Pattern: Grid | ||
+ | *Disable Infill Before Walls | ||
+ | '''Material''' | ||
+ | *Enable Retraction | ||
+ | *Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm | ||
+ | '''Speed''' | ||
+ | *Print Speed: 50mm/s | ||
+ | *Infill Speed: 40mm/s | ||
+ | *Wall Speed: 25mm/s | ||
+ | *Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s | ||
+ | *Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s | ||
+ | *Travel Speed: 120mm/s | ||
+ | *Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s | ||
+ | *Number of Slower Layers: 2 | ||
+ | '''Travel''' | ||
+ | *Disable Combing | ||
+ | '''Cooling''' | ||
+ | *Enable Cooling Fans | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==Recommended Material Settings== | ||
+ | On your Ultimaker, go to '''MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize''' and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using. | ||
+ | Then select '''Store as preset > New preset'''. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'. | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''E3D's Edge''' | ||
+ | *Temperature: 240C | ||
+ | *Heated buildplate: 80C | ||
+ | *Diameter: 2.85mm | ||
+ | *Fan: 100% | ||
+ | *Flow %: 95% | ||
+ | *Retraction Distance: 2.00mm | ||
+ | |||
+ | Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder: | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''PLA''' | ||
+ | *Temperature: 220C | ||
+ | *Heated buildplate: 60C | ||
+ | *Diameter: 2.85mm | ||
+ | *Fan: 100% | ||
+ | *Flow %: 95% | ||
+ | *Retraction Distance: 2.00mm | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''ABS''' | ||
+ | *Temperature: 240C | ||
+ | *Heated buildplate: 100C | ||
+ | *Diameter: 2.85mm | ||
+ | *Fan: 100% | ||
+ | *Flow %: 95% | ||
+ | *Retraction Distance: 2.00mm |
Revision as of 10:37, 27 September 2016
This page provides a full guide to installing the E3D Ultimaker 2 Upgrade Kit, including the E3D Titan Extruder and V6 HotEnd into your Ultimaker 2 Series 3D printer.
This upgrade kit is compatible with:
- Ultimaker 2/ Ultimaker 2 Extended
- Ulimaker 2+/ Ultimaker 2 Extended+
This article is a companion to the Video Guide by Thomas Sanladerer showing the upgrade process. It is recommended to follow this page and his guide in tandem. Read the Preparation section before beginning the installation process.
Ensure your printer is switched off, disconnected from the power supply and cooled down before handling.
This guide is based on work originally written by Steve Wood of Gyrobot, many thanks for his contribution.
Requirements
Upgrade Kit Contents
- E3D Titan Extruder Kit
- 3mm Groove Mount Bowden Adaptor
- PTFE Bowden Tubing
- NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Cable
- E3D V6 HotEnd 3mm Bowden - 24V, 30W, PT100
- Wiring Loom and Braided Sleeve
- V6 Nozzle Fun Pack
- V6 Silicone Sock
- Printed Parts
- Four Layer Adaptor Body
- 2x Fan Duct
- Bowden Depressor Tool
- Fixings
- 12 x M3 Nut
- 16 x M3 Washer
- E3D Edge Sample Filament
- Allen Keys
Tools Required
- Pliers or 7mm Hex Wrench
- Small Phillips-Head Screwdriver
- Allen Keys (Included)
Preparation
- Begin by removing the filament from the printer in the normal manner used for Changing Filament but do not insert a new spool, simply continue through the process pressing OK at each stage.
- Wait for the HotEnd to cool back down, you can check this by going to MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle. If the second temperature (eg. 27C/0C) is not already at 0C, rotate the dial to set this, wait for the first temperature to reach room temperature (eg. 27C/0C).
- Factory reset your printer by scrolling to MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Factory Reset and press YES. When the setup wizard loads, do not run through it, instead switch the printer off.
- Disconnect the power supply.
Installation
Printhead
Ultimaker Printhead Dissassembly
- Lower the bed by pressing down on it gently until it reaches the bottom.
- Unscrew both of the part cooling fans from the Ultimaker head, save the screws as we will use them later.
- Remove the bowden clip from the bowden collet.
- Press down on the bowden collet with your fingernails or the bowden removal tool, then pull upwards on the tube, it should slide out.
- Unscrew the four long thumbscrews holding the Ultimaker printhead together, keep these as we will use them later.
- Carefully remove the rail from it's bracket on the left side by pulling up on it using the bracket for leverage.
- The lower and upper sections of the Ultimaker printhead should now be free from the assembly.
- Gently lift the rail and slide out the middle section from its bearings. The head assembly should now be free from the rails. If wires remain tangled, one side of the other rail may need to be unclipped from its bracket in a similar manner to free them.
- Detach all of the connectors from the Ultimaker head, keep the two 30x30mm part cooling fans as we will use them in the next section.
E3D Printhead Assembly
- Take the two 30x30mm part cooling fans we saved from the Original Ultimaker Printhead. Screw these into the two printed fan ducts with the label on the inside and the wiring exiting from the tallest side of the duct as shown.
- Carefully turn the printer onto its right side.
- Slot the first section of the new printhead into the lower bearing as shown.
- Pass the cables for the two part cooling fans and the heatsink fan though the wiring hole in the first section of the printhead, hold these in place for the next few steps.
- Pass the wires though the second section (light grey) of the printhead as show then slot it over the bearing. Pass the wires thought the third (dark grey) section as shown.
- Gently lift the upper rail and slot the third section into the upper bearing as shown. Slot the rail back into its bracket when complete.
- Pass the wires though the top (black) section and slot it over the upper bearing.
- Slot the four long thumb screws from the original Ultimaker printhead through the four holes in the new printhead with washers between the screws and printed parts as shown.
- Connect the wiring loom to the cables from the printhead, each connector should only go in one way.
- Add a washer then nut to the other side of the bolts and tighten with pliers or a hex wrench.
- Add another nut to each bolt then slot the heatsink fan onto the back of the heatsink with the cutout side of the fan bracket facing towards the top. The bottom flat surface of the fan bracket should align with the bottom of the heatsink. The wires should be routed around the sides of the bracket as shown below (viewed from the top right), running through the fan bracket cutout channel when installed.
- Add a washer to each bolt then slot the part cooling fan assemblies onto the bolts as shown, onto the left and right sides.
- Add a final washer and nut to secure the part cooling fan assemblies and tighten. Ensure they do not go below the level of the nozzle to avoid fouling during printing.
- Insert the new bowden tube into it's collet as shown. When properly seated it should not be able to be pulled out.
- Slide the braided sleeve down over the connectors and into the top of the printhead.
- Remove the bowden clips from the original Ultimaker wiring loom and attach them to the braided sleeve and bowden tube of the new loom as shown.
Extruder
Ultimaker Extruder Dissembly
- Remove the two screws shown below from the back of the Ultimaker.
- It should now be possible to remove the motor cover.
- Remove the bowden clip form the original Ultimaker extruder using your fingernail or a screwdriver.
- Hold the motor in place from the front and remove the four screws in the extruder shown below. The motor and extuder should now become free. Rest the motor at the bottom of the Ultimaker for now.
E3D Titan Installation
For more information on the E3D Titan installation process, please visit the E3D Titan Wiki Page.
- Pass the M3x12mm screw through the hole in the curved groove of the Titan. Hold the supplied stepper motor in place where the original one was mouted with the connector side facing downwards towards the bottom of the printer. Secure the Titan and motor by passing the screw though the Ultimaker body as shown and tightening it into the motor.
- Mount the gear (with the longer shaft facing outwards), bowden adaptor (with the grey collet on the top side) and filament guide into the Titan body as shown.
- Screw the idler nut onto the idler screw, then slide the spring onto the screw.
- Slide the idler lever onto the motor shaft then seat the idler screw and spring as shown.
- Slot the Titan lid onto the body assembly, this may require the body to be rotated to line up the motor shaft with its hole. The black gears shaft may also need to be pushed slightly to slot in. Screw the shorter M3x25mm screw into the top left corner hole in the Titan.
- Screw the longer M3x35mm screws into the other three holes. Make sure not to over-tighten the screw passing through the gear as this could damage the bearings during use.
- Slide the bowden tube into the bowden adaptor, when secure it should not be able to be pulled out.
Electronics
Accessing the Control Board
- Push the bed up to the top of the Ultimaker by pressing on it gently from below.
- Carefully turn the Ultimaker onto its left side remembering that the old motor is still free to slide.
- Remove the two screws pictured below being careful not to lose their corresponding nuts. This should allow the electronics cover to be removed.
- Remove the four screws shown below holding on the control board. Be careful not to lose the standoffs between the screws and the board.
Wiring
- Once the electronics board is free from the frame we can begin removing the wiring of the original heoad. We wish to remove the wires from the pins labelled : TMP1, E1, Fan PWM, 5V. Using a flathead screwdriver, press down on the orange tabs for the two wires labelled HTR1 and pull the corresponding wires out. These connectors are shown below.
- Remove the old wiring loom by feeding the loose wires through the hole in the base of the printer. These can then be pulled out through the hole below the extruder.
- Insert the new wiring loom though, through the hole beneath the extruder then through the hole in the base of the printer. Tuck the the loom behind the Titan underneath the idler lever.
- Plug in the extruder motor cable and run its wire through the hole in the base of the printer.
- Insert the extruder motor cable into E1, this should only go in one way.
- Insert the wire labelled 'Hotend Temp' into the 'TEMP1' socket. This can go either way around.
- Insert the wires labelled 'Heater' into the two sockets with the label 'HEATER1', when secure these should not be able to be pulled out. The wires can go either way around.
- Inset the wire labelled 'Part Cooling Fan' into the 'FAN PWM' socket, this should only go in one way around.
- Insert the wire labelled 'Heatsink Fan' into the '24V' pins shown below by the heater cables. This should go with the black negative wire on the outside of the board.
Finishing Up
- Run the four electronics board screws through their holes and place the four standoffs onto them on the other side. Place the electronics board above them being careful not to trap any wires and screw the in the four screws to secure the board.
- Run the two electronics cover screws though their holes. Position the electronics cover into place by aligning its tabs into the sides of the printer, be careful not to trap any loose wires, the wires shown below should run through the small cutout in the cover. Place the bolts onto the screws and tighten to secure the cover.
- Replace the motor cover again being sure not to trap any wires and screw its two screws in from the back of the printer to secure it.
This completes the physical part of the installation.
Firmware and Printing Settings
You must update the Ultimaker firmware for the upgrade to function correctly. To update the firmware, Cura Version 15 or earlier is required. This can be downloaded here.
- Begin by downloading the appropriate E3D Ultimaker 2 Series Upgrade Kit Firmware for your printer.
- Switch on your Ultimaker and plug it into your computer, if you have not already done so, factory reset the printer by following the factory reset steps in the Preparation section. do not run through the startup wizard just yet.
- Load up Cura as you normally would for printing on the Ultimaker. Make sure you have the correct printer selected by going to the Machine menu and selecting your printer. If it is not present, got to Machine > Add new machine... and run through the steps selecting your printer from the list.
- Navigate to the Machine menu, then click Install custom firmware.... Click OK to dismiss any warnings which pop up.
- Navigate to and open the firmware hex file downloaded from the above link.
- When the firmware update is complete the printer should restart. Run through the startup wizard steps on the printer to calibrate your printer to the new head.
Firmware Changes
The edits required to the Ultimaker 2 firmware after updating to the E3D HotEnd and Extruder combo are outlined here. If you have downloaded the modified firmware directly, you do not require to do this step. These are taken directly from the original guide by Steve wood, which can be found here.
These updates are built upon a download from the official firmware taken on 29th January 2016.
There are 3 options for uploading the necessary firmware changes into your Ultimaker 2:
- You can upload custom firmware via the Cura slicing software, if this is your preferred option then you can download a previously compiled custom firmware for this.
- Here are the modified Marlin source files. for compiling yourself using the Arduino software. This is the preferred option as it enables you to upload the latest version of the firmware relevant to your machine.
- If you are running your own modified firmware and want to know what lines to change in the "configuration.h" file then here are the edits:
// increase the maximum temperature for the E3D V6 HotEnd #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 400
// PID values for Ultimaker2 with E3D HotEnd #define DEFAULT_Kp 36.59 #define DEFAULT_Ki 3.65 #define DEFAULT_Kd 91.72
// travel extents have reduced slightly for E3D HotEnd #define X_MAX_POS 215 // For E3D HotEnd #define Y_MAX_POS 210 // For E3D HotEnd
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
// default steps per unit for Ultimaker2 and E3D Extruder #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,417.5} #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 40, 20} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,3000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.
I turned off EEPROM support by commenting out the following lines, otherwise you will not see the changes:
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS //#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT
This does require that the print surface be re-calibrated upon restart.
The Bowden retraction settings should be changed if the filament change function is to work properly after the upgrade. These settings are found in the "UltiLCD2_menu_material.h" file. Here are the variables that need to be changed and their new value:
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 150)
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 75
#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 75 // Speed during the forward length
A Warning : The later Ultimaker 2 firmware (after v14.09) has a temperature "safety feature" built in, which has been notoriously sensitive. It seems like it is overly sensitive and an E3D HotEnd doesn't conform to it's expected heat up and cool down cycles. The result is a common "ERROR - STOPPED Heater error" on the display panel and a failed print. The part cooling fans can often trigger this error because they can blow air onto the nozzle heater block and cause temperature fluctuations. Although the silicon sock provided in the kit should reduce this, it is still a recurring issue.
The following lines in the "configuration.h" file control the parameters of this "safety feature". I have tried many combinations of these values with little effect.
#define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 10 #define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (30 * 1000)
If you want to disable this feature like it was back in v14.09 then you can comment out the following lines in the "temperature.cpp" file at your own risk:
// Commented out for UM2 because too sensitive for E3D HotEnd // disable_heater(); // Stop(STOP_REASON_HEATER_ERROR);
This concludes the upgrade process, you should now have a fully working E3D HotEnd on your Ultimaker 2 series printer!
E3D Edge Filament
The upgrade kit is supplied with a sample of E3D's Edge filament. In order to print with this material on the Ultimaker, a profile must be set up. This can be done in two ways:
Download the E3D Edge Ultimaker Profile and place this onto an SD card. Insert this into your Ultimaker then navigate to MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Import form SD on the interface. EDGE should now be present in the list.
If you would prefer, you can create a custom material profile directly on the printer instead by following the instructions in the next section.
Recommended Cura Settings
This upgrade kit now allows you to print with a much wider range of materials. However, the standard Ultimaker settings might not prove satisfactory. In Cura 2.1.3, these can be found in the "Advanced" section. Here are our recommended settings for the most common materials used (0.4mm diameter standard nozzle):
Quality
- Layer Height: 0.25mm
- Initial Layer Height: 0.3mm
- Line Width: 0.48
Shell
- Wall thickness: 1.2
- Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.75
- Horizontal Expansion: 0
Infill
- Infill Density: 25%
- Infil Pattern: Grid
- Disable Infill Before Walls
Material
- Enable Retraction
- Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5mm
Speed
- Print Speed: 50mm/s
- Infill Speed: 40mm/s
- Wall Speed: 25mm/s
- Outer Wall Speed: 15mm/s
- Inner Wall speed: 20mm/s
- Travel Speed: 120mm/s
- Initial Layer Speed: 15mm/s
- Number of Slower Layers: 2
Travel
- Disable Combing
Cooling
- Enable Cooling Fans
Recommended Material Settings
On your Ultimaker, go to MATERIAL > SETTINGS > Customize and input the following settings depending on the material you are planning on using. Then select Store as preset > New preset. Note this will be called something like 'CUSTOM1' rather than 'EDGE'.
E3D's Edge
- Temperature: 240C
- Heated buildplate: 80C
- Diameter: 2.85mm
- Fan: 100%
- Flow %: 95%
- Retraction Distance: 2.00mm
Standard materials also have slightly different optimal values with your E3D V6 hotend and Titan Extruder:
PLA
- Temperature: 220C
- Heated buildplate: 60C
- Diameter: 2.85mm
- Fan: 100%
- Flow %: 95%
- Retraction Distance: 2.00mm
ABS
- Temperature: 240C
- Heated buildplate: 100C
- Diameter: 2.85mm
- Fan: 100%
- Flow %: 95%
- Retraction Distance: 2.00mm