Difference between revisions of "Kraken Assembly"
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== What's in the box ==
== What's in the box ==
Latest revision as of 13:29, 17 November 2017
What's in the box
- Metal Parts
- 1 x Water-Cooled Kraken Aluminium Heatsink (Contains 4x embedded fitting for tubing)
- 4 x Stainless Steel Kraken-Heatbreaks
- 4 x E3D-v6 Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)
- 4 x E3D-v5 Aluminium Heater Block
- 4 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor
- 4 x 12v 40W Heater Cartridge
- 4 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR
- 1m of Thermistor wire with 0.1" connectors
- Some 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins
- Some Kapton
- Water Cooling
- 2m Silicone Tubing
- 2 x Brass Barbs (factory fitted)
- 1 x Stainless Plug (factory fitted)
- 1 x 12v Water Pump
- All fixings required for 4 x E3D-v6 HotSides
- 3m 4mmOD x 2mmID PTFE Tubing
- 4 x Threaded Bowden Couplings
What you need
- 16mm Spanner
- 7mm Spanner
- Pozi-Drive Screwdriver
- M2.5 Hex Wrench - we supply these in the kit when possible
Warnings - Please Read!
- The HeatBreaks are fragile. If you are using a large spanner, hitting it with a hammer, etc. you are doing it wrong.
- The thermistors are small and fragile. Be gentle with the legs. The bead is made of glass - don't crush! It is also very small, so don't breathe.
- You are dealing with high temperatures - the HotEnd gets hot, and may be off your printer when you do the initial tightening. If you touch it, you will get burned!
- You are dealing with high currents, make sure you double check all your wiring and your power supply rating. It is not recommended to work on anything whilst it is plugged in. Bad wiring with improper current ratings can cause fire.
- Be sure you have ordered (and received!) the correct voltage heater and fan to match your 3D printer. E3D hotends are 12volts by default, 24v by request. A 12v heater measures at 2-4 ohms, and a 24v heater measures at 10-14 ohms. Fans can be checked by looking at the label. Connecting 12v parts to 24v power can result in overheating, component damage or fire.
- E3D’s hotends are high performance, capable of reaching a wide range of temperatures. The temperatures that ignite some plastics are within the normal printing temperatures of other plastics. If you only plan on printing ABS, PLA, and/or Nylon, it is recommended that you set your heater cartridge “MAX_PWM” to 150 in your firmware, in order to limit the E3D’s heater to a range suitable for these plastics. If you are not printing materials requiring ~300C, there is no need for “MAX_PWM" to be set over 150. This variable can usually be found in the configuration.h file of your printers firmware. You can always change it to a higher value when you want to experiment with higher temperatures, it is much more difficult to extinguish a housefire.
- Like all 3D printers, printers fitted with a high temperature all metal hotend can be a fire hazard. You are using experimental technology to heat and melt plastic, in a machine that you may have built or modified yourself, that likely does not have safety certification or significant failsafes. Fire/Smoke alarms, supervision of your printer while printing, and expertise should not be considered optional.
- Your HotEnd and your printer is your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.
Wire up and hot-tighten all of the HotSides one at a time following the the relevant sections in the E3D-v5 Documentation Documentation.
For firmware configuration, use the E3D-v6_Assembly#Configure_Firmware_.28Easy.21.29 for reference.
We use Repetier Host to arrange objects and slice with Cura for 4x models.